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Rugged Ridge Steering Linkage Upgrade

Both y and t have major drawbacks. You get tie rod roll and a dead spot with inverted t. You get changes in toe angle with suspension flex running inverted y. This is why I finally bit the bullet and ordered the crossover bracket. My jeep also runs about 6.5" of lift, and the steeper the angle, the worse the drawbacks of either inverted t or inverted y become. If I had to choose between the two, I think inverted y drove better on the street. I hear the currie set up is nice.
 
Inverted Y steering has the drag link running from the pitman arm to the pass knuckle, then the tie rod connects to the drag link and runs to the dr side knuckle. Inverted T has the tie rod going from knuckle to knuckle and the drag link goes from the pitman arm and connects to the tie rod. Crossover steering has the tie rod going knuckle to knuckle and the drag link attaches separately to the pass knuckle.

The two issues with good steering are low angles on the drag link, so the joints aren't maxed out to both limit droop and cause the joints to wear out quickly, and getting the tie rod up higher to minimize trail damage.

Inverted T only works with high steer, and only works decently when there is very little angle on the drag link. Inverted T allows the tie rod to roll and when there's a lot of angle on the drag link it creates a dead spot, but if the drag link has very little angle then even if the tie rod rolls some it doesn't change the effective length of the drag link and there is no dead spot. I've run inverted T on an XJ with high steer on a D44 and it works perfectly. I've seen inverted T without high steer and it sucks big time.

Inverted Y works well in most situations, no dead spot possible. Some complain that the toe adjustment changes some as the suspension cycles but it's minimal and really doesn't matter.

Crossover is ideal with no dead spot and no toe change.

I like the JB4X4 bracket, something some of us have been thinking about designing for a long time. I'd use it. I would mount the tie rod above the knuckle using heim joints to get more clearance. The rattle out of heim joints in steering is over stated, don't use cheap ass heim joints. Stick with high load rating full chromoly joints and you won't have a problem. I always get a kick out of people talking down heim joints for steering when every race car or truck in existence for on or off road uses heim joints. The track bar axle mount would need to be raised to match the raised drag link, and there are plenty of weld on brackets out there to do that. Raising the track bar height on the axle also raises the front roll center which gives better stability on the trail, so you get two positives, better steering angles and better trail handling/stability. BTW, TeraFlex also makes a knuckle that does the same thing, or use a WJ knuckle.
 
The Currie steering is the best you can buy, just flat works. It's strong, the joints are big, and there are bends at the joints to make the joint angle neutral at ride height so there is plenty of available travel without binding the joints. Virtually every Jeepspeed car uses the Currie steering. Only problem is that using the stock mounting locations is not ideal for an 8" lift. That much lift requires a modified steering and track bar setup to work correctly. I would only recommend the Currie steering up to 6" of lift, higher than that and you need to be prepared to make a steering setup with better angles and more clearance.
 
BTF makes a braket kit that will raise the mounting points on the knuckles, that may be an option to reduce TRE angles
 
Sorry, just got back into the country or would have done this sooner.....


The Btf bracket won't help tre angles, it's set up for Heims. It will help steering angles though.

Que? How can it help steering angles but not tre angles?
 
I see. I was transposing the btfab bracket and the jb4x4 as the same. The jb4x4 is specifically set up for tre's whilst the btfab is for heims.
 
Installed my jb4x4 bracket last night. The rugged ridge drag link is long enough to go to the new bracket. The nut does clear the flipped tie rod, which had me worried. Havent driven it yet, but will post up pics and review this weekend.
 
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