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Rubicon Case showed up today!!

_MURDERED OUT_ said:
Sierra Drifter:
on your buildup page, one of the last posts has a pic of some shock mounts...

Where did you buy those?? I need a set of those! I have to install my shocks after flipping my rear leafs and stretching the wheelbase. Im making a frame cross bar to mount the top of the shocks to and will be needing to make some lower weld on mounts.
Click to expand...

JKS makes those shock mounts, but they are overpriced at $60.
http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=FAB_922&Store_Code=JKS01&Category_Code=FABParts

You can make them, buy one leaf spring perch, cut it in half, and drill a hole for the shock bolt.
 
88rockxj said:
thats the way real drive shafts are made, look under an 80s toyota.
Click to expand...
:bawl: waaaaaa i wish my 2004 dodge ram 2500 cummins turbo diesel had a real drive shaft :bawl::tears: lol.
i have a book that says the 241 has a max torque capacity of 5555 ft lbs compared to the 231s 1885 ft lbs :wave1: what an awesome swap
 
Yeah i think they designed it to handle the torque of the cummins diesel. Im assuming maybe the 241 in the 2500-3500 Dodges are of the same design other than the lower planetary gear set...
 
_MURDERED OUT_ said:
Yeah i think they designed it to handle the torque of the cummins diesel. Im assuming maybe the 241 in the 2500-3500 Dodges are of the same design other than the lower planetary gear set...
Click to expand...


lol sorry about my confusing post. they do not put np 241s behind the cummins. the tc on the cummins is a np 271 and i do not believe the thing would even fit in between the frame rails of a xj. When i was "crying" about the drive shaft on my truck i was just joking around. But any way great idea for a tc upgraded:idea:
 
i thought they used 241's in the heavy duty dodges. They used them in some of the 1500's i think....

oh and im about to order my yokes for my rubi case. Im getting the tom woods rear flange and a 1310 u joint yoke from High Angle Driveline.
 
Why not just get both yokes,I run identical fr/rr shafts on mine.
nvg241or1.jpg
 
_MURDERED OUT_ said:
i thought they used 241's in the heavy duty dodges. They used them in some of the 1500's i think....

oh and im about to order my yokes for my rubi case. Im getting the tom woods rear flange and a 1310 u joint yoke from High Angle Driveline.
Click to expand...
Dodge used the 241D (3 planetary) and 241HD (6 planetary) in the 2500 and 3500 up until 2003 when they switched to the 3rd gen body style, and a common rail diesel, and that is when they put in the 271. they are all 2.72:1 cases
This is all off the top of my head, so I may be a little off in the details
 
RCP Phx said:
Why not just get both yokes,I run identical fr/rr shafts on mine.
nvg241or1.jpg
Click to expand...

well, i cant run a cv front shaft like most of you do. I have way too much lift and the stock cv bottoms out way before reaching the front pinion yoke, so i run a traditional 2 u joint front shaft.
 
i finally ordered the rear flange from Tom Woods today. It has 2 bolt patterns to accept a 1310, 1330, and 1350 cv flange. So it should work out for the current 1310 flanged cv im running now and also anything i may upgrade to in the future!

It was $95. 85 for the flange and an extra 10 to machine the seal surface down and bore the first 1/4" or so out of the splines to fit over the output shaft on the rubi case. And free shipping too!

So i guess i will post a few pics when i get it in the mail and start to put things together.
 
got the flange today.
100_0809.jpg

100_0810.jpg

see the first 3/8" of splines are machined out. That is specifically for the rubi case because the output shafts are not splined all the way down and the yokes have to be clearanced to fit over the unsplined portion of the shaft.
 
_MURDERED OUT_ said:
well, i cant run a cv front shaft like most of you do. I have way too much lift and the stock cv bottoms out way before reaching the front pinion yoke, so i run a traditional 2 u joint front shaft.
Click to expand...


Your front shaft angles must really suck. Call Jesse at High Angle Driveline and put some real shafts in your rig.

If you are going to build it do it right...:twak:

http://highangledriveline.com/
 
TNT said:
Your front shaft angles must really suck. Call Jesse at High Angle Driveline and put some real shafts in your rig.

If you are going to build it do it right...:twak:

http://highangledriveline.com/
Click to expand...

yep, i got lots of lift and the front shaft angle is not the greatest. Im sure i could get a cv joint in there but not the stock one. If i end up breaking my rear shaft i will upgrade to probably 1410 u joints and run a 2 ujoint rear shaft. I am goin to get a good 1310 shaft made for the front eventually.
 
100_0813.jpg


100_0814.jpg

And i will tell ya that this thing is one HEAVY BITCH! It was a fun time putting it in last nite at midnite. And i am a lil skinny dude. anyway, I am here to tell ya that 4:1 is LOW. It will go up hills and stuff with not much throttle now. So i guess it will work out. I dunno how its goin to work out in some muddy terrain tho. Maybe i should be able to still get enough wheel speed prolly at like 4500-5000 rpm now tho.
 
and i can get the t-case linkage to work out. Im just goin to have to cut on end off of the lower rod and weld a 1/4" bolt to it like i had to do on the top rod that comes right off the shifter lever which you can see in the pic.

and also the front driveshaft is goin to work fine. I bought a 1330 to 1310 conversion u joint and i had some spare u joint u bolts and nuts laying around and found one that fits. So my front shaft will work fine because i dont run a cv front shaft. I guess everyone else will have to buy new yokes.:looser:
 
Last edited:
Is something like this a good alternative to getting a SYE for a 231?

Edit: Wait.. According to this the NP241 has a slip yoke. I thought they didn't use one for the Rubicon... Jeep upgraded to a stronger transfercase with 4:1 etc, but kept the slip yoke?? Typical
!!!1
 
Last edited:
winkosmosis said:
Is something like this a good alternative to getting a SYE for a 231?

Edit: Wait.. According to this the NP241 has a slip yoke. I thought they didn't use one for the Rubicon... Jeep upgraded to a stronger transfercase with 4:1 etc, but kept the slip yoke?? Typical
!!!1
Click to expand...
Thats not the same as a NV241OR.......
nvg241or1.jpg
 
BTW, there is a fairly common issue with the Rubicon transfercases that results in drive line vibrations. The tone ring on the rear output shaft that spins under the speedo sensor has a locating pin that can easlily come out when the yoke or balancer/flange is removed. This causes the rear yoke/flange to be just a little crooked on the ouput shaft resulting in some driveline vibes. So if you end up with any vibes you will want to read this thread: http://www.rubiconownersforum.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?t=12655

and these pictures: http://www.thedragonsden.net/jeep/241/
 
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