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Rough Country Flex-Joints worn

Or you could abandon rebuildable joints all together and get some 1.25" heims from ruffstuff and be done with it. Smooth, quiet, and in my opinion stronger than any cartridge style joint.
 
zachandandy said:
Or you could abandon rebuildable joints all together and get some 1.25" heims from ruffstuff and be done with it. Smooth, quiet, and in my opinion stronger than any cartridge style joint.
Click to expand...

And also thats not always an option for some of use that DD are jeeps. with heims you feel EVERYTHING!
 
Anyone have any updates on the last round of x-flex joint changes? I just bought a rig with the 6.5" lift and all four joints are worn out and need to be rebuilt. I took two of them apart and cleaned them up and they look alright but when assembled they still have excessive play. Wondering if the last round of changes to the bushings have solved the reliability problems and if its worth rebuilding them since I doubt I can get them replaced under warranty since I'm not the original purchaser. I understand Currie JJ are pretty much bomb proof, and are the best option, but I would like to know if its possible to salvage what I have for less than half the cost if I have to foot the bill. I've already upgraded the axle ends to Energy poly and replaced the failed heim joint track bar with an IRO double shear (still in transit). Last bit to replace/upgrade is the CA flex joints to get it back on the road.
 
When you assembled the joint, how did you adjust them?
Snug, or so the joint flexed easy by hand? Should have been snug.

Also be sure to "pre grease" them with vasoline before assembly.
 
My wife dd's her wj with heim joints, guess some people are just sensitive? I prefer a firm ride over death wobble caused by worn out joints. If you like the ride of a cartridge joint, I'd suggest buying some better quality joints than rough country.
 
I would also like to know peoples experience with the latest Rough Country joints and if they are better than the old ones that had many complaints.

edit: I have the new ones but haven't logged enough mileage to make a fair assessment.
 
I replaced mine with joints from Parts Mike.
joint.jpg
 
WB9YZU said:
When you assembled the joint, how did you adjust them?
Snug, or so the joint flexed easy by hand? Should have been snug.
Click to expand...

To be clear these joints were already installed on the rig when I purchased it and they have the older compound bushings. When I reassembled them I cranked them down as tight as I could in an attempt to take the slop out, but they are too far gone and are still easily moved by hand.
 
I just got my lift from RC going to install it tomorrow, Any advice on how to properly adjust the new style joints would be great.

Snug- As in you have to force them to move or just so there is a lil tension when you try to move them?
 
Well I caved in and ordered up some Currie joints. I figure the difference in price is worth the peace of mind. I've also been waiting for the RC rep to email me back about replacement parts after he requested pictures of the joints on the 13th and at this point I'd rather get the rig back on the road with proven parts.

Besides the track bar and the flex joints I'm happy with the overall quality of this kit. Some of the pieces have pretty good rock rash from one of the previous owners but nothing structural and no deformation to be seen.
 
Sorry if this has already been said but im pretty sure the "1st gen RC Flex joints" were not adjustable they just had a washer on one side and a c-slip holding them together on the other. The "2nd Gen Joints" had a threaded nut that you could tighten using a spanner wrench. Kind of like the top one in the pic above.
 
Freebird 78. I used Ruffstuff rod ends. Parts Milke's joints have double adjusters. I kept going through RC rebuild kits. The last time I called they refused to send me new inserts. They used the old "It's been over six months". They kind of pissed me off. Since I switched joints, about two years ago now, I have not had one joint problem. All I do is shoot some grease in every oil change.
 
hate to bring up an old thread like this, however, I just had to order rebuild kits. RC said that "they were having issues with the housings" around the time they shipped mine out. So im getting all new housings and bushings, but shit. If they knew they were having issues why send it out? UGH. Frustrating. Atleast they have good CS.
 
USAF007 said:
hate to bring up an old thread like this, however, I just had to order rebuild kits. RC said that "they were having issues with the housings" around the time they shipped mine out. So im getting all new housings and bushings, but shit. If they knew they were having issues why send it out? UGH. Frustrating. Atleast they have good CS.
Click to expand...

The joints simply suck. I can't count how many times I had to replace their joints and they were not having any issues with them at that time. I gave up on the crap and went with Currie joints. I haven't touched them, nor greased them (oops!) in probably two years or so and they are still tight like always.
 
well hopefully these last. If not, ill save up for curries. about to spend the money and get a SYE this week since the TCase drop didnt work and im getting some bad vibes and the drivetrain seems to be growling at me lol
 
westvalleyxj said:
Actually here are the ends you need , uppers and lowers.
http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Product569.aspx?id=2961
http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/Product569.aspx?id=2629
Got the specs from RC then called currie and confirmed with a rep. Direct fit.
Click to expand...

I have that top link in my RC long arm. the Currie Johnny Joints. The only problem with the second one is that yes, they are the same thread, but I the RC ones have much more thread on them. Mine look like they are threaded out about how long that one is.

BTW, I had a similar issue. My upper one blew out. So I replaced it with Currie. Now I went wheeling yesterday and blew out the lower ones...
 
I'm bringing up this thread again under some confusion...

Earlier in the thread (I just read all 18 pages) there were links to LH thread Currie joints. Then later on in the thread, there were links to RH thread Currie joints.

So if I get the Rough Country long arms, do I need to buy LH thread or RH thread Currie joints?

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but I don't want to buy the wrong thing...
 
Unfortunately after you get their kit, you'll need to take your joints off and see if they are left or right hand thread. I think RC ships both.
 
praetorian said:
Unfortunately after you get their kit, you'll need to take your joints off and see if they are left or right hand thread. I think RC ships both.
Click to expand...

Wow really?

Well I really didn't want the RC long arms to begin with, but I considered them with the Currie joints to cut some cost, but if it's gonna be that much of a pain, forget it.

:doh:
 
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