Replacing the 00+ coil rail with aftermarket coils

[Talyn]

Replacing the 00+ coil rail with aftermarket coils

 

[rwdawg2]

AH. I didn't realize that the 2000+ had a "coil rail". Any way you could make this type of set up work on 97-99 models?

 

[Talyn]

not worth the effort.

 

[peelman]

Talyn and everyone else who posted here... THANKS for the info and help. I completed the swap on my '01 XJ today. Everything went smoothly. I compiled a list of parts and pics as we all know how helpful pics and more part info is.

With the help of Talyn I ordered an Airtech connection device and a Viper coil through RockAtuo. This device has to be cut, flipped 180 degrees and soldered together. Just to make sure you have a 'straight-through' wiring connection. Pretty easy if you look at it.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=5237220&cc=1431779









and the Coil f/an '02 Dodge Viper.



I also ordered several parts f/ Jegs... some Taylor 8mm V8 Universal Fit wires, Wire Connectors and a fuel pressure gauge (for something else)





I went by my local Hardware store and picked up 1 sheet of flat stock SS 12" x 18" (not sure how thick, but not very thick... just thick enough to stay rigid and hold the new Coil.

Picked up:

4 - 1/4" x 2" bolts and 1/2 x 20 nuts (to mount the new Coil)



I already had one 1" 1/4" bolt and nut f/past jobs to secure the base of the Coil Mount. There is a hold near the motor mount that this went through.

I used the 2 bolts that hold the Coolant Overflow to secure the top part of the Coil Mount.
I removed the overflow bottle to give more room. I also use some cardboard to mock-up a template and transferred that over to the SS flat stock and cut it w/my air saw. Slowly and methodically I got the mount to work.



Then mounted the new Viper Ignition Coil



Plugged in the modified Connector to the OE plug and the new Coil



Then I started cutting/fitting the plug wires to fit my application. Taylor makes a great plug wire and these are easy to customize.







After checking to make sure I didn't leave anything disconnected, no tools left under the hood and checking again. I fired her up and she started like a top!! I turned off the garage lights and couldn't see any ignition fouling under-hood and there was zero miss! I took it for a driver around the block, down the road, full-throttle runs and just driving down the road. She idles smooth as glass and runs great! So far so good. Obviously time will tell, but I'm quite pleased. I love the look and it's MUCH easier to get to the plugs now.

I'd have to add up all the $$ spent, but I'm quite happy and consider it money well spent. I have 3 extra plug wires that were left over if I ever need to replace one. All in all a great Saturday project.

I'm confused as to why for your 2001 XJ you used the Airtex 1P2041 cut and filp/ solder the wires back, was this meant for the 99 XJ. I was assuming that you would use the same Airtex coil connector and just length the wiring to reach the Viper coil.

 

[Redsnake]

I'm confused as to why for your 2001 XJ you used the Airtex 1P2041 cut and filp/ solder the wires back, was this meant for the 99 XJ. I was assuming that you would use the same Airtex coil connector and just length the wiring to reach the Viper coil.

The Plug/Connectors are flipped/upside down... on the Jeeps OE Coil Pack Connector and the Viper Coil... So in order for this to work like it should one must flip the connectors and add wire so you have room to mount the aftermarket 'Viper' Coil.

 

[Talyn]

The 99 WJ has a different internal wiring on the coil rail. 00+ were different. Instead of making a separate coil rail just for the 99 the aftermarket made the patch cable.

In this application you extend it and make the wires straight through. Using the patch cable is an alternative to cutting the wiring harness.

 

[peelman]

The 99 WJ has a different internal wiring on the coil rail. 00+ were different. Instead of making a separate coil rail just for the 99 the aftermarket made the patch cable.

In this application you extend it and make the wires straight through. Using the patch cable is an alternative to cutting the wiring harness.

Thanks for the info!. I'll purchase the patch cable (as I don't want to butcher the stock connector) and run the wires straight through.

 

[Devilfrog]

That makes it even easier, this has been on my "To Do" list for some time. It even allows for swapping back to stock in the event of a failure if needed. Yeah, I'm optimistic like that.

 

[peelman]

The Plug/Connectors are flipped/upside down... on the Jeeps OE Coil Pack Connector and the Viper Coil... So in order for this to work like it should one must flip the connectors and add wire so you have room to mount the aftermarket 'Viper' Coil.

The 99 WJ has a different internal wiring on the coil rail. 00+ were different. Instead of making a separate coil rail just for the 99 the aftermarket made the patch cable.

In this application you extend it and make the wires straight through. Using the patch cable is an alternative to cutting the wiring harness.

I'm sorry guys, but just to clarify the patch cable set up on a 2000 XJ should run straight through to the viper coil via extended wires on the connector. Why would Redsnake cut the wires flip the connector 180 deg and re-solder the wires for his 2001 XJ, shouldn't that be for the 99 only?.

 

[Devilfrog]

If you look at the pictured patch cable, it is a simple reversing harness (meaning the plug orientation is reversed on each end).
Using the harness let's you avoid cutting and extending the stock wiring. But since it is a reversing harness you have to convert it to pass through to work. So, when done the plugs should share the same orientation at both ends.

 

[Talyn]

Why would Redsnake cut the wires flip the connector 180 deg and re-solder the wires for his 2001 XJ, shouldn't that be for the 99 only?.

Forget about the 99 as it applies only to the WJ. The XJ only has coil rails 00+. The patch harness has the wires in the wrong order. They need to be cut to make a straight through patch cable.

 

[bigdaddyjlove]

I am resurrecting an old thread to say thanks. The folks that did all the research made this much easier for me.

I bought the parts 8 months ago, and on friday, I got a missfire code, so I finally had an excuse to make this mod.

http://imgur.com/VHHjSsy

http://imgur.com/PwyFEeu

 

[randomguy310]

so you are saying when you have to flip it 180degrees that the wire are black- white- yellow- purple, and flipping them should be black/purple and white/yellow, just trying to make sure I understand how that goes. awesome write up

 

[Redsnake]

so you are saying when you have to flip it 180degrees that the wire are black- white- yellow- purple, and flipping them should be black/purple and white/yellow, just trying to make sure I understand how that goes. awesome write up

That sounds correct. Basically take the Airtex Harness lay it flat, cut the wires in the middle, flip one end over 180 degrees and then splice in the longer wires as it lays after being cut.

You want a 'straight thru' connection from the wiring harness from the XJ to the new Coil.

Good luck and let us know how it works out.

 

[blistovmhz]

I own a couple of 2000 Jeep Cherokees and always hated the Coil Rail and considered doing this swap, just recently I purchased a 2000 XJ with a blown motor with all the engine parts in the back of the Jeep and once I was done installing the 98 XJ Motor I found the Coil Pack I had was bad.

I was going to order a Viper Coil pack but my buddy had a factory Chrysler (non viper) coil pack in his tool box new and gave it to me, LONG STORY SHORT is it worked - it had the following number stamped in the back 56032520AB, I plugged it directly in to the stock wiring loom after shaving off the coil the two bumps on the plug area (so it would plug in) - looking at the top with the plug to the right

4 & 3 top
2 & 5 middle
1 & 6 bottom

The part number cross references to;

CHRYSLER # 56032520AB, 56032520AC
STANDARD # UF305
BORG WARNER # E887
AIRTEX # 5C1432
WELLS # C1442

I used the stock wires from a 01 Dodge Caravan that I got from the junkyard (spend $7 on) just to see if everything would work before investing major money on new wires and coil, I still need to mount the coil which will require extending the wiring harness plug - and make sure the Caravan wires will work with the mounting point I decide on (I will post a picture when I am done), but thought I would pass on that despite other folks problems the Airteck 5C1432 will run the motor.... although I have not driven it yet down the road.

I really hate reviving a thread this old, but I just swapped my 98 block and head into my GF's 2000 XJ (blown 0331 head and resulting bad block). Just swapped my block over and it worked fine, but she's been having issues lately, and I'm starting to suspect that one of them is the coil pack, so I've been thinking about doing this swap as well.

So a year or two down the road, is the coil pack you listed still working? Seems easier than the Viper coil, and probably substantially cheaper as well.

 

[Devilfrog]

The viper coil is also the same as the V10 RAM coil and I've seen it cross referenced to minivans as well. Last I checked it was surprisingly reasonably priced... Cheaper than a stock replacement for the 2k coil rail last I checked.

 

[Talyn]

Seems easier than the Viper coil, and probably substantially cheaper as well.

How is it easier? It is the same amount of work

 

[blistovmhz]

How is it easier? It is the same amount of work

Buddy was saying that the part he used just plugged right in with no modification to the wiring (other than extending the plug). I just want the easiest way to throwing out the coil rail because I have to rule spark out before wasting any more time on this motor. Its been driving me mental for months.(OK, the GIRL has been driving me mental cause she absolutely loses her shit when jeepy don't run right.)

 

[Talyn]

Buddy was saying that the part he used just plugged right in with no modification to the wiring (other than extending the plug).

That is exactly what the viper coil does as well.

 

[Devilfrog]

"buddy" had to shave the plug to make it fit. The Viper coil uses the exact same plug. They both have to have the wiring extended due to the short length of the stock wiring. If you were to unlock the harness you could probably avoid that a bit, but it more work in the long run.