Replacing Axle U-joints, what else?

[Samson04]

Okay guys, basics first (this is for you Joe :wave1 98xj 4.0, 183K miles, AW4. Anyway, I was replacing front brakes this weekend and noticed some play in the passenger side axle u-joint. New Brake pads, rotors, and even calipers. I'm going to replace u-joints on both sides while I'm under there, but what else should I look for? I don't want to throw a ton of money at this thing right now, but I would rather fix what is wrong, or what will likely go wrong in the very near future while I'm in this deep. Also, I'm going to use Spicer u-joints, anyone have the numbers handy? A friend of mine had to go to the parts store 3 times because they kept giving him the wrong ones. Any help greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance guys!

 

[johnnyc]

Spicer 5-760x

 

[Samson04]

Thanks for the part number johnnyc. Anyone have any suggestions on what else to look at while I'm under there?

 

[1904-96xj]

Before it's all tightened up, put the wheel bearing back on and throw the front tire on the lugs. Grab the tire at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock. Try to wiggle the tire. If it moves you might need wheel bearings. If no movement, tighten everything up and do the process again. If it moves, check the track bar and tie rod ends. If no movement, you're good. The nice thing about being under there already is, even if you tighten everything back up, everything's pretty easy to loosen if you need to since you just did it.

 

[Skreed]

If it was me and I could afford it, id put new wheel hubs/bearings whatever you guys are calling them these days

 

[joe_peters]

Before it's all tightened up, put the wheel bearing back on and throw the front tire on the lugs. Grab the tire at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock. Try to wiggle the tire. If it moves you might need wheel bearings. If no movement, tighten everything up and do the process again. If it moves, check the track bar and tie rod ends. If no movement, you're good. The nice thing about being under there already is, even if you tighten everything back up, everything's pretty easy to loosen if you need to since you just did it.

12 and 6 for ball joints; 9 and 3 for unit bearings.

Yes, 5-760X. Here is the look up on Dana's site: http://www2.dana.com/expertforms/dek350.aspx

PS--Thanks for the BASICS, it makes things go a little smoother. :wave:

 

[1904-96xj]

12 and 6 for ball joints; 9 and 3 for unit bearings.

Not the opposite? Seems like if my hands are at the 12 and 6, movement would indicate bearing and vice versa with ball joints. Wheels turn on a horizontal plane, so if there's movement horizontally (9 and 3) it would be joints...I'm no pro. ??

 

[joe_peters]

Nope. Its how the loading occurs. BTW, in coil-over-shock (strut) arrangements you have to use a pry bar to test the ball joints--just a slightly different test.

 

[Samson04]

Thanks for the advice guys. I bought the u-joints yesterday but won't have a chance to put them in until Friday. I will check the unit bearings and ball joints then. Hopefully I can rest a little easier knowing it has all new brakes in the front, but then again I'm sure there will be something else on the ole' Jeep to spend money on. While on the subject, I have been looking to possibly go to disc brakes on the rear. Now it is my DD and occasionally see's the dirt, would this benefit me and is this an expensive endeavor? Any kits for this switch?