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Replaced water pump...now overheating

Maybe it's time to replace that old 4.0 with my 4.0 that is still fresh and ready to go.

and of course there's always the old "murfmobile's" engine! :confused1

Thanks,
Fred
Explorer 1
 
Did you burp the system? An air bubble will cause a false high reading.
 
Maybe it's time to replace that old 4.0 with my 4.0 that is still fresh and ready to go.

and of course there's always the old "murfmobile's" engine! :confused1

Thanks,
Fred
Explorer 1

haha hopefully not. my dad and i dont have time to do an engine swap, especially since we still have a transmission-less truck :laugh: speaking of the "powerwagon", if anyone wants too see what happened to it and how we are fixing it you can view my thread: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/8...trag-360-weird-noise-rebuild-coming-soon.html

for those who like Dodge cummins trucks, the truck is one so maybe that'll spark someone's interest :rof:
 
success! party1:

over the past 2 days my dad and i put in the new timing chain, kept the water pump napa gave me, had some trouble putting the harmonic balancer (really TIGHT fit). ended up having to re-tap the threads in the crank to accept an extra bolt we had laying around (the old one stripped because the HB was so tight). then everything went in fine. put everything back together, filled it up with coolant, started her up and she runs perfectly now! :D no more sound and no more over heating! :party:


thanks everyone for all your help!
 
Tip on the HB--buy a longer bolt than stock, a few washers. Grease the washers, use the longer bolt with the greased washers to pull the HB on. When the bolt bottoms out, remove it, remove a couple washers, then pull the HB on some more. Keep going until you can use the stock length bolt--that will prevent stripping the threads out of the crank. The grease on the washers makes the whole job easier.
 
Tip on the HB--buy a longer bolt than stock, a few washers. Grease the washers, use the longer bolt with the greased washers to pull the HB on. When the bolt bottoms out, remove it, remove a couple washers, then pull the HB on some more. Keep going until you can use the stock length bolt--that will prevent stripping the threads out of the crank. The grease on the washers makes the whole job easier.


Good idea.
 
Tip on the HB--buy a longer bolt than stock, a few washers. Grease the washers, use the longer bolt with the greased washers to pull the HB on. When the bolt bottoms out, remove it, remove a couple washers, then pull the HB on some more. Keep going until you can use the stock length bolt--that will prevent stripping the threads out of the crank. The grease on the washers makes the whole job easier.
Helped do a motor install a couple weekends ago, we were going to do this but couldn't find a place that had a longer-than-stock bolt on hand. We ended up using a dead blow mallet to install the HB - fortunately the motor was still on the stand at this point, I'm just hoping we didn't shorten the lifespan of the throwout bearing getting overly happy with the persuasion mallet.
 
Tip on the HB--buy a longer bolt than stock, a few washers. Grease the washers, use the longer bolt with the greased washers to pull the HB on. When the bolt bottoms out, remove it, remove a couple washers, then pull the HB on some more. Keep going until you can use the stock length bolt--that will prevent stripping the threads out of the crank. The grease on the washers makes the whole job easier.
That's a good suggestion but I suggest using a stud made from a grade 8 bolt with the head cut off. That way the stud is screwed into the crankshaft completely so there is the least chance of thread failure in the end of the crankshaft. When the HB is fully seated just remove the stud and install the bolt with some medium strength loctite and you are done.
 
Tip on the HB--buy a longer bolt than stock, a few washers. Grease the washers, use the longer bolt with the greased washers to pull the HB on. When the bolt bottoms out, remove it, remove a couple washers, then pull the HB on some more. Keep going until you can use the stock length bolt--that will prevent stripping the threads out of the crank. The grease on the washers makes the whole job easier.

I've used that trick before and its the best way to put a H.B on.

What brand timing set did you go with?Curious because I put a brand new standard motor products set in and I still have noise.....replaced rubber tensioner also.
Drives me ape shit!!!!!
 
Wish mine did.
Since we're on the subject can someone tell me what would cause the timing set on mine to be really noisy.Like I already said I've replaced the timing set and wear block and its still noisy.what else would cause excess noise from this area???
I can hear it twenty feet away......
 
Are you getting adequate oiling to the chain?
 
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