Renix era Brake Combo proportioning valves

[kastein]

Yep... that's why I always replace the rotors at the same time. At $20 or so each, it's silly not to.

 

[Ecomike]

Well I got started doing this stuff in 73, when rotors also included the bearing housing, and were like $100 ea in 73 (about equal to $400 now days), and I got use to changing pads early and not letting the rotors get damaged, and I pushed them as far as I could.

Just recently started to drive newer junk (LOL, sold my 73 LTD recently), and have not quite made that price, two + piece, cheap rotor change in my habits and thinking.

In this case the anti rattle clips had been installed the wrong way and the pads had worn unevenly (about 4 years ago) on that one rotor, and I failed to test the entire surface of the rotor for thickness with the caliper.

 

[joe_peters]

Bottom looks real interesting, Had not seen that one before. The top one I had read about 4-5 years ago. It is why I was thinking of servicing the valve while still installed.

kastein:

It looks like a real pain, and I am under the impression that making the brake line double flares is a real PITA and nearly impossible to do right manually?

With an "inexpensive" tubing flare set this is usually TRUE. Usually the cheap tools won't hold the tubing correctly and it moves--ruining the flare. HF/parts store stuff usually won't cut it.

 

[Johnnie Walker]

Glad you figured it out. I always buy new rotors when I do the brakes. Most of the time I go for the Napa Premium which last time ran about 22$/rotor. When I did my Late model D30 swap I got the carquest rotors as my friend had an account there with a discount on it. For future, if you want even better braking and you can get the parts inexpensive enough, The later model calipers/pads (will need newer knuckles and rotors to match) work better.

 

[joe_peters]

Glad you figured it out. I always buy new rotors when I do the brakes. Most of the time I go for the Napa Premium which last time ran about 22$/rotor. When I did my Late model D30 swap I got the carquest rotors as my friend had an account there with a discount on it. For future, if you want even better braking and you can get the parts inexpensive enough, The later model calipers/pads (will need newer knuckles and rotors to match) work better.

Yep--we need a new brake lathe, and to sublet rotors costs us $15 each, plus the time and gas to run them to one of the shops that can get them out quickest. At about $22 apiece NEW and delivered by the parts store, hard to go the sublet route.

 

[Ecomike]

Sublet?

 

[cruiser54]

Sublet?

A repair or service that you send out of your shop for someone else to do .

 

[Ecomike]

A repair or service that you send out of your shop for someone else to do .

We call it sub out in Texas, LOL.

 

[cruiser54]

We call it sub out in Texas, LOL.

I'm trying now to say that with a twang so I get the full effect........

 

[Ecomike]

LOL

 

[joe_peters]

We call it sub out in Texas, LOL.

That is what the Navy calls a submarine leaving port...

 

[Ecomike]

That is what the Navy calls a submarine leaving port...

I wonder what a NY subway calls it, LOL,

or Subway:

 

[Ecomike]

That is what the Navy calls a submarine leaving port...

Do you know if there is any fluid communication at the combo valves on XJs such that brake fluid moves from front to rear or rear to front? (or air?).

I am beginning to suspect that there is none, and that it is not necessary to bleed the rears when only replacing parts on the front side like a caliper?

 

[Devilfrog]

I have never had an issue bleeding each circuit sperately.
I have also had the rear circuit burst at the axle and my front still remained working.
So I'm going to go with nope, no fluid Comms. Each circuit is wholly independent.

 

[cruiser54]

I have never had an issue bleeding each circuit sperately.
I have also had the rear circuit burst at the axle and my front still remained working.
So I'm going to go with nope, no fluid Comms. Each circuit is wholly independent.

Yes.