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renault diesel 2.1 parts

I recently rebuilt my spare vacuum pump. I found a place that I could order a rebuild kit for it. The guys name is Damien. He is a nice guy and is very helpful.

http://flag-diesel.rivousel.com/flag-diesel/VacuumPumps.htm

I purchased the kit part# 80-0189. It has everything needed except one gasket and two O-rings (the picture of the kit on his web site does not show everything that came in my kit). The gasket is in kit 80-0501 which is not pictured but Damien can get it. This gasket is for the non-square access cover; the one that gives access to the one-way valves. I simply used mine again as it was still OK. The two missing O-rings can be purchased anywhere. The O-ring sizes are: -032 AS-568 (2" OD, 1 7/8" ID, 1/16" thick) and -133 AS-568 (2" OD, 1 3/16" ID, 3/32" thick). One O-ring seals between the vacuum pump housing and the engine block. The other is the seal for the square access plate.

Nelson
 
When driving home recently I noticed I had only half the oil pressure that I normally have about 30 psi and I run actually about 70-75 psi. When I would come to a stop, the pressure would drop to almost 0 so I would keep the revs up a little to keep the pressure up some. I thought it might be the gage or maybe the oil pump had loosened from the block. It turned out it was oil level. I had dismissed oil level in my mind because I check level so frequently. It was my vacuum pump. The diaphragm had broken and was sucking the oil out of the sump and putting it on the ground. I don't think I did any engine damage. I am just glad I noticed it. This issue is definitely a flaw with this engine. Rebuilding the vacuum pump is no big deal. I installed my spare pump and I was good to go. A couple of tricks I have learned: 1) when rebuilding the pump, check the 2 plates that sandwich the diaphragm and make sure they are very smooth especially on the edges as the metal plate and rubber diaphragm rub on one another when going up and down. 2) put a little lubricant on the diaphragm so that where it rubs on the plate, it is lubricated 3) when you install the diaphragm cover, do so with the diaphragm to the upper stroke extreme. This will cause the diaphragm to be mounted in such a way that the diaphragm will not have to stretch as much when the diaphragm is working because the diaphragm was "pulled in" from the start. 4) The pump is mounted on the side of the block at an angle like some of the old straight 6 distributors. When you pull the pump out, the hex sided drive shaft (which also powers the lube oil pump) falls/lays up against the bottom side of the hole and you can't reinstall the pump because the drive shaft does not line up. I get a very small piece of styrofoam and wedge it in between the drive shaft and the wall to center the drive shaft in the hole. The piece of styrofoam ends up in the oil. I assume it ends up as part of the oil as I know gasoline will consume styrofoam in a moment. I didn't know how else to make it happen. I guess you could jack up the drivers' side of the vehicle to make the pump strainght up and down. It would be way up there though. Or you could pack the hole with grease. That would probably work fine. I know it is rather detailed here, but this simple little diaphragm can destroy your engine. I think Marcoleo or Steve Coreze mentioned this in another thread. If you own one of the Renault diesel Jeeps, keep a spare vacuum pump rebuild kit on hand, watch your oil pressure when driving, check your oil level often and if you see a good splotch of oil on the ground in the vicinity of your pump investigate it. I have experienced this twice now. The first time I caught it early. The second I almost didn't. It was using a quart every 15 miles I suspect.

Nelson
 
my buddys dad drives a Diesel XJ, he just rebuilt the motor top and bottom, i guess he had to buy a new head, and it took 2 months to find one!
 
I bought a spare parts vehicle that has the Renault engine. I know that it is not practical for most people. It is also worth having some rebuilt spare parts ready to go. The spares I would choose to have are: rebuilt cylinder head, upper and lower gasket kits (make sure upper kit includes the head gasket), rebuilt injection pump, rebuilt vacuum pump, water pump, timing belt with idler and tension pulleys (there is a good deal on www.rockauto.com for a belt and pulley kit right now). Having some spares like this will keep down time at a minimum. Simply watch ebay and you can find good deals. I bought a low mileage injection pump for $25, a low mileage complete (incl. cam, rockers, valves, etc.) cylinder head for $125, a vacuum pump for $35, a new water pump for $12 and a bunch of other good deals all on ebay.

Nelson
 
Another source for parts: I would imagine you could get about anything you want for your diesel XJ from them.

Bradford Grinders
Mount Street Bradford BD3 9SM
WWW.BGUK.CO.UK
[email protected]

I wish there were a place we could deposit this information where it does not get "lost in the past" like when posting this info here. All of the info I have learned from my struggles with my Renault diesel Jeep I have made an effort to post on this site.

Nelson
 
I believe I have resolved my overheating problems with my diesel XJ. I have read several times where this engine is notorious for overheating. I heard one guy say that he has to "burp" his radiator every now and then. Apparently these engines tend to leak combustion gases by the head gasket. This is probably why the factory put a flow through expansion bottle on these vehicles to scavenge and vent the combustion gases through the expansion bottle cap. Gases still build in the radiator however. This may be because the radiator cap overflow pressure is higher than the expansion bottle cap overflow pressure. The bottle starts venting coolant as pressure rises but the overflow feature of the radiator cap has not opened yet which would send the combustion gases to the overflow bottle. After a little time, no more coolant and a lot of combustion gases in the cooling system. In an indepth discussion with a coworker we talked about how to get flow from the top of the radiator to the overflow bottle where the gases could be sent to the expansion bottle. It turned out to be simple. Remove the rubber gasket from the plunger portion of the radiator cap. This allowed for a small continuous leakby from the top of the radiator to the expansion bottle. This simple fix took care of all of my cooling problems. I cannot convey how much I struggled with this issue (much weeping and gnashing of teeth) only to come up with a ridiculous fix like this. I wonder how many of these XJs ended up in the junk yard over this issue.

Something else I would do is install new head bolts if I were to rebuild my engine again. I did not do that and bolt fatigue may have added to my problem.

I have added information to other posts. Simply search using the word diesel or my user name dieselpioneer to get more good info. I have a lot of hard learned lessons that I have shared on the website.

Best to you,
Nelson
 
Also:

http://www.lesharo.com/
http://www.lesharorv.com/
http://www.renaultclub.us
http://www.renaultparts.us/

Jacques Lynn (who runs Renault Parts) is a really good guy, but even his stocks are low for the diesel stuff these days (assuming there's anything left) - and since the J8S has been out of production for 15 years at this point, expect that trend to continue.

Also, it may be worth doing some poking around in Renault's industrial and marine diesel applications. Don't quote me on this since my memory's not 100% in this regard, but I seem to recall that the J8S (amongst others) was used for both generators and boats.
 
I would never reuse head bolts, especially on a diesel!
 
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