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Regearing Questions? READ THIS!

Kejtar said:
Can you expand a little bit as to why not?

Personal opinion on strength. But I'm pretty hard on stuff. I broke a LOT of Dana 30 parts, including a gaggle of shafts, a Detroit carrier, a bearing cap, and chipped teeth on a R&P.

All of this was on 3.73's and 33x10.5's.

CRASH
 
CRASH said:
Personal opinion on strength. But I'm pretty hard on stuff. I broke a LOT of Dana 30 parts, including a gaggle of shafts, a Detroit carrier, a bearing cap, and chipped teeth on a R&P.

All of this was on 3.73's and 33x10.5's.

CRASH

wow... yeah, hard is an understatement :D
How did you damage the carrier? Did the manufacturer warranty it?
 
Kejtar said:
wow... yeah, hard is an understatement :D
How did you damage the carrier? Did the manufacturer warranty it?

Broke the side "gear" cones on a Detroit True-Trac, which then swelled into the carrier, cracking it.

That was the old style, though. The new one has extra pinion gears.

Detroit laughed at my request for a warranty. Then, realizing their weakness, released the revised unit not 6 months later. Which is just ANOTHER reason why I won't run their products.

CRASH
 
Should I run 2.56s? I have a 500hp blown hemi and a d35. Oh, and its my DD and sees pretty hardly moderate trails and logging roads? Thanks in advance.
 
Crash, I think you're basing your numbers on your experience with your old, weak 4.0 & the deep OD in your NV. With a strong (stock) 4.0 HO, AX15 with shallow OD & 35's, 4.56's work great. I can pull any grade in 5th no problem.
For off-road use I'd say it doesn't really matter much, as whether you have 4.56 or 5.38 gears, you're still going to need deep tcase gears, & as long as you have deep tcase gears, it doesn't really matter what you have in the Diffs. At least for rockcrawling with a manual.

Paul
 
If I had a 44 front I would run 5.38s with 35s on my daily driver. I like gearing. Until then the 4.88s sure do make it fun. I can only imagine something in the 5s with 35s.---------Kyle
 
woody said:
4.56:1 and 31" (15" static radius) killed my gas mileage. Are wheelies tax deductable and if not, does URF take full responsibility for their advice??

thanks for taking the bullet so I don't have to...I was thinking 4.56 and 31's but hey...4.10's sound good now !
 
I opened a sticky thread and I am starting to put stuff on gearing in there. I'm starting on the normal BS, such as figuring out what axle and ratio's you already have. I will be gleaning good explainations from lots of threads, rather than just using one. Anybody want to work on portions of this are welcome. Pix are great. I can either put them on the NAXJA server or on my own, so hosting won't be a problem. It will be a simple text and pix setup in the beginning, but hopefully once the guts are there, we can purdy it up some. I appreciate all the effort you guys put in answering the same old questions. Now is the time to pull all of the knowlege together in one thread. Thanks.
 
BrettM said:
remember to cut down the wrist, not across.






:laugh3:
:D

Remember to be in a tub full of tepid water. You would not the blood to clot, leaving you with those nasty scars.

Or us left with you going off about the poor quality of butter knives available.:lecture:
 
on my r6 forum, they have a permanent title above each discussion urging newbs to search before they post any type of post. but i guess most newbs don't even know what terms to search for... fawk.

brandon
PS, i know it sucks, but we were all newbs at some point, right? nah
 
Paul S said:
Crash, I think you're basing your numbers on your experience with your old, weak 4.0 & the deep OD in your NV. With a strong (stock) 4.0 HO, AX15 with shallow OD & 35's, 4.56's work great. I can pull any grade in 5th no problem.

Paul

I dunno Paul. I absolutely love my 5.13/35 combo on the road and know I would have hated it if I had stuck with the 4.56s(although my engine is getting a little tired).
You don't drive in the mountains much do you?
 
Jes said:
I dunno Paul. I absolutely love my 5.13/35 combo on the road and know I would have hated it if I had stuck with the 4.56s(although my engine is getting a little tired).
You don't drive in the mountains much do you?

I don't drive it much anymore, but it was my daily driver for a long time, including a lot of mountain driving. I remember when I went from 33 to 35's I thought that the 35's were better suited to 4.56's than the 33's were.

Paul
 
shimmy said:
on my r6 forum, they have a permanent title above each discussion urging newbs to search before they post any type of post. but i guess most newbs don't even know what terms to search for... fawk.

brandon
PS, i know it sucks, but we were all newbs at some point, right? nah

Love the sympathy in your voice ;), I think NAXJA does a great job of trying to avoid the reposts. They have the "has this been posted before" option on the new topic. Besides, this isn't pirate4x4, I left them b/c everybody always flamed everybody. It is fun sometimes, but most of the time it is just annoying. I appreciate how everyone (for the most part) is so nice at NAXJA. Making it a sticky would be great and a faq would be awesome too (thanks for starting that old man), it is just nice to have all of the info in one place.
 
Thanks for starting this thread Crash. Your gearing suggestions/tire size are right on the $$$. :) 35's and 4.56 gears suck in the auto trans climbing up the mountains/hills to the Rubicon/Fordyce that's why I'm going with 5.38 hp44/5.43 9" with my 37's or 35's.
Troy
 
It's funny how everybody has a different opinion. I run 35's w/4.56's and have never really needed a lower gear, except when I was running a stick. I now run an auto and a 4.7L stroker. Lower gears would be nice, but I was doing a bit of freeway running with it, so 4.56's were a good solution.

.456's w/35's yields a virtually stock overall drive ratio.
 
DBenz said:
It may also be beneficial to mention about DD and trail rigs. The information is very good, but that's the other thing I was left wondering about.

Whats the question. If its daily driven it shouldnt have 5.38s. If it needs 5.38s it shouldn't be daily driven.
 
CRASH said:
Personal opinion on strength. But I'm pretty hard on stuff. I broke a LOT of Dana 30 parts, including a gaggle of shafts, a Detroit carrier, a bearing cap, and chipped teeth on a R&P.

All of this was on 3.73's and 33x10.5's.

CRASH

I think it was all intaller problems. You paid waaay to much.
 
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