Rear Main seal, 1 piece oil pan gasket and valve cover gasket

[KingOfTheHill]

wow, this thread has some great tips..

the zip tie one is AWESOME! too bad i put mine up before i saw that!...

i fought it tooth and nail for a good 9 hours... really wish i would have had a lift kit standing by since i had to disconnect my shocks and lower links...

i have worked on a lot of cars, done some pretty big jobs but this one takes the cake when we talk about mess... this thing had to of been leaking for 30-40 thousand miles.. the whole outside of everything is just caked on.. just disgusting..

main seal wasnt bad, but dropping the pan sucked... i think if it was lifted it would have been much much easier..

i didnt get to the valve cover gasket since i had to get my other car back in the garage for the night... so im hoping the little leak i still have is that...

or maybe its pooled up somewhere and still drying out?... i got down under it and degreased the hell out of it (should have done this before) and blasted the pressure washer... drove it around a while and still get 1 drip.. before it was using 1qt per week or so!!!!!!! so there is for sure improvement..

going to look into the valve cover tonight and dig deeper into the oil filter mount.

geesh.. trying to keep a jeep leak free seems like quite the battle.

thanks again guys!...

JOe

 

[5-90]

My pan was out of an 87' 180k. It looks real purdy now a little simple green and wire brush to remove a few "build up" spots, now looks nearly new
I also started using M1 full syn.

1/4" huh? I like thw wooden dowl idea better than the brass, less likely to scratch and cheaper too. I got it to move like 1/32"-1/64". I'm going to try again tonight when I get home from work.

Yay for pedal power:soapbox:

Brass don't scratch either - I've got brass rods in plenty of sizes. I just check the business end before I use it - if there are burrs, I give it a quick rub with a file to clean up the end (and round it off just a touch.)

That's why my steel punches are all painted blue - I can tell them apart with a fingertip by feel, or just look at them and know which is which (I've also got some Nylon drifts - white - and they feel different from painted steel or "white" brass with a little practise as well...)

 

[Harlee&Tahoe]

wow, this thread has some great tips..


i have worked on a lot of cars, done some pretty big jobs but this one takes the cake when we talk about mess... the whole outside of everything is just caked on.. just disgusting..

Big X2

All the RMS searching I did never uncovered some of these, I did find the zip tie trick.

I hope the next time I will be posting with success.

 

[Harlee&Tahoe]

Everything is done and for future reference I'd reccomend slightly smaller than 1/4".
All I could find as far as brass goes was 3/8" coarse thread 12" rod, ground to 1/4".
Next time I do this I'll grind a little more, 7/32" to fit better in main cap groove, clearence to CS was good though.
Instead of using zip ties I used stuff called Gaskacinch (got it at NAPA) on the block, main cap, and timing chain cover.
With it I was able to place seal in place and perfectly line it up in main cap and it held to block.
It's like rubber cement, coat both surfaces let dry and remains tacky for hours.
Just be sure you're ready to use it when you apply.

 

[AlabamaDan]

One tip that I have is to use some small zip ties to hold the gasket in place putting the pan in. I did this and it really helps, just get the pan into position, start a few bolts and the snip the zip ties and pull them out (don't leave them in or you will have a leak)

Here is a pic

What kind of gasket is that?

 

[5-90]

That would be the later one-piece moulded rubber gasket, recommended for use on all years.

(As far as the edit note on the post - that was me hitting the wrong button. I didn't change anything...)

 

[Bugboy]

it is jsut the standard 1 piece gasket. not sure if it is rubber or poly but personally i like the cork 4 piece better. not only is it about 1/2 the price but I have yet to have one leak in 6 rear main seal installations on 6 different xjs. I am to the point now when i buy an XJ i just go ahead and put in a n RMS and 4 piece pan gasket. just a little red permatex very lightly over the pan edge or some gaskesinch (sp) to hold it in place and you are ready to roll.

Sean

 

[Windsors03Cobra]

That blue looks like a fel-pro brand.

 

[ceb0217]

ya just got mine fel-pro/ napa brand