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Rear disc on XJ C8.25" from a ZJ

even though I will be putting huge amounts of air in the system?

Changed to DOT4 when ever I did my first flush. since most OEM stopped using DOT 3 in the mid 90's and almost completely by 2006. I also used DOT4 since they are both Glycol Ether based and the DOT4 has better Wet and Dry boiling points. Figured with the larger 33" tires the brakes and fluid would heat up a bit more and can use the extra margin the DOT4 provides.
 
Magus2727 said:
even though I will be putting huge amounts of air in the system?

Changed to DOT4 when ever I did my first flush. since most OEM stopped using DOT 3 in the mid 90's and almost completely by 2006. I also used DOT4 since they are both Glycol Ether based and the DOT4 has better Wet and Dry boiling points. Figured with the larger 33" tires the brakes and fluid would heat up a bit more and can use the extra margin the DOT4 provides.
Click to expand...

I'm not arguing the DOT3/4 upgrade. Good plan. I just know there are lots of folks who refuse to use anything other than OE fluids so I made a bad assumption.

I didn't think you were changing the fronts out so there shouldn't be any air in the front half. Now if you let the master run dry while the rears were out, then yes, but I would also bench bleed the master first and then flush as much of the air out from master down through the left front caliper going in reverse and then normal as mentioned before.

Sorry, made lots of assumptions...
 
It's all good. I am swapping out all the soft lines with new Toxic SS braid lines. so the front two right and left, the rear to the rear axle, and since I am going with ZJ rear disc I have the rear left and right from the calipers.

So I will be replacing the proportion valve that biases the front and rear brake pressure. That will consume fluid and also require bleeding of the valve body. to y understanding if you don't press on the brake pedal when doing this after installing the new valve you can just bleed the valve body.

but then come the lines I am completely replacing so large amounts of air there. Also taking out the old stock bleeder screws in the front calipers and putting in the Russell speed bleeders. so that will also drain the front calipers of some fluid.

The rear is completely dry. The lines and calipers are all dry. so that means I will be pushing out the air from the rear hardline all the way back.

It's only a few bucks for another 1qt bottle so might get that and the smaller one. I don't use fluid that I have opened and have not used the day/weekend I opened it. Might be over kill on the Jeep but on a car that I race out at the track its just easier to keep the same practice.
 
Almost have everything done. Those hard brake lines are a PIAA and I need some better wrenches as it seems like it kept rounding.

But a Major problem. E-Brake cables, the Liberty ones are HUGE they won't fit. The problem I am having though is the length of cable from the body mount. The stock drum brakes are about 9" long.



Even the ZJ brakes don't have this length on the end. What brake lines do I need?
 
dan1977p said:
Some folks loop the end of the original cables and clamp them. I welded washers to the end of the lines.
Click to expand...

Not sure I follow. Original cables for the ZJ right? So cut the end off, then use the cable tie type of thing?

I am not so worried about attaching the cable to the ebrake handle and the caliper end. Don't I need to secure both ends of the out side sheathing one at the caliper side and the other end is OEM on the XJ to the body.

Even with the clamping your not securing the other end are you?

Anyone have any pictures? All the how to's don't really cover any of the brake lines or ebrake cables issues.
 
Magus2727 said:
Not sure I follow. Original cables for the ZJ right? So cut the end off, then use the cable tie type of thing?

I am not so worried about attaching the cable to the ebrake handle and the caliper end. Don't I need to secure both ends of the out side sheathing one at the caliper side and the other end is OEM on the XJ to the body.

Even with the clamping your not securing the other end are you?

Anyone have any pictures? All the how to's don't really cover any of the brake lines or ebrake cables issues.
Click to expand...

Just use your xj cables
 
Will they work? My XJ cables are for drums. The mount and way to connect to the ZJ e brakes are completly different.
 
You need to reread my posts. Use the xj cables and make a loop on the end and clamp it down. or weld or braze a washer to the end to catch the lever on the e brake. Google it too and lost of posts will come up.
 
I will have to take a look. I figured the XJ lines would have just as much of an issue securing to the ZJ. I am referring to the bracket that holds the brake cable. Don't have a welder. I have looked at the clamp way.
 
The good thing is it can be driven with out the ebrake hooked up while I get my sore butt back out there.

I also already have the Liberty brake lines as a few writeups mentioned they were a "direct" fit... so I might see how I can modify those to work.
 
Magus2727 said:
The good thing is it can be driven with out the ebrake hooked up while I get my sore butt back out there.

I also already have the Liberty brake lines as a few writeups mentioned they were a "direct" fit... so I might see how I can modify those to work.
Click to expand...

So I am thinking of trying this out. Since I have the Liberty KJ ebrake cables I am going to modify them to work. Going to cut the ferrule off on the end that connects to the brake "equalizer" on the handle side. Slide out the cable from the Teflon sheathing. Cut a portion out of the middle of the cable so I can cut it to the length I need. I will keep about a 12" length of the cable end in making this measurement so I can slide it back on and have a way to mount it to the XJ body mount. I will then cut the cable the length needed per the OEM XJ lines and install a new ferrule on the end. To take care of the cut I made in the Teflon sheathing I will use multiple layers of heat shrink (I have the kind with the glue on the inside) to secure both ends together and provide that no crap can get in.

This will allow for me to have ferruled ends at the "equalizer" end at the handbrake and allow for accurate preloading through the spring and correct hook and loop end at the actuator arm at the brakes.

Would require about the same amount of effort and cost as using the XJ lines to make them fit but will use my new lines, will have correct mounting at both ends. Also I can make the cable a few inches longer to handle the lift. Since I got longer soft lines if I go taller in height I would only be limited by the ebrake cables.


Made a little picture to help show what I am planning...



Thoughts?
 
Well thought I would provide a status report / my experience on this.

Got the swap done last Saturday. And in general it went well. I knew I should have gotten new U-Bolts but hoped with 2-3 weeks of PBlaster that I could reuse them since I am expecting to have to replace the springs in the fall. almost all the bolts snapped off. Also The new axle had rust and other build up in the yoke requiring me to swap over the yoke from the 27-splie axle and get new strap kit.

Also don't forget the axle seals... I thought the seals where on the diff side of the tube and not the outside. So after I put in the new bearings I forgot to put the seals in until I was leaking fluid out the axle.

My drums were fairly shot. One side was down to metal while the other side still looked like it had a good amount of life left.

The Bad Drum:


The other side:


So going to anything would be an improvement on the braking.

Axle came out with relative ease. Also at this time I would like to say how much I hate brake lines. I also replaced all the soft lines with Toxic SS brake lines so removal of the soft line from the hardline was always a challenge. I ended up having to cut, flair, and union the rear line.

Axle came out:


Then there was the problem with the e-brake lines. I got the liberty lines as a few write-ups made it sound like these would be a drop in replacement, the ZJ lines are to short? and using the XJ lines you have to mod the brake side of the connector. I decided to try to hack up my new liberty lines to match what XJ mounts there are.

I measured and mocked up the line. cut off the ferrule on the brake line and slid out the cable. I then cut out the section that I needed from the housing. cleaned up both ends and used shrink tube to seal and hold the sections together. 2 layers, then two helical springs wraping with a 3rd layer of shrink wrap. Cut the wire so I would have the correct amount of wire from the mount to the new ferrule. Did this for both sides.

The new brake cables:


This will allow for the proper spring preloading on the e-brake side and will connect to the OEM mounting locations on the XJ.

I have yet to install these as I have ran out of time. They will be installed sometime this weekend.

Also installed a new proportional valve from the ZJ. Using 2 qts of brake fluid to flush and bleed the system out after the replacement of the lines the Jeep feels new... with the brakes at least. Pedal movement is now no longer to the floor. If you really stomp on the brakes it sounds like the tires might be able to lock up now. Hope that once I get the new cables in the e-bake will now work.

Thanks for the help everyone has provided.
 
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