Rear Barpin elemination.

[dhodgee]

I bought new Fox shocks. Everything I read about the factory bar pin left me wondering why people don't just cut through the floor and doing something about it... AND that's what I did! :idea:

I picked up this spring mount from TSC for $12.


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Then Removed the factory barpin once and for all. I drilled a hole up through my floor to find the mounting location from the top. Then I measured about 3" around the hole in the top and started grinding...


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Here's what the mounting looked like before I welded it in...


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Not to shabby. A lot of good surface for a good bead.

 

[austinaubinoe]

looks good! could you share pictures of the shocks installed?

 

[MrShaft696]

Question, couldn't you have just screwed that in the stock holes & welded it in place & not cut the floor, because if you have stock shock mounts on the axle, the top of the shock is turned 90deg now.

 

[Talyn]

Question, couldn't you have just screwed that in the stock holes & welded it in place & not cut the floor, because if you have stock shock mounts on the axle, the top of the shock is turned 90deg now.

Using the stock screws would have rotated the shock mounting 90*. The way he did keeps the bar pin in the same plane as stock.

 

[MrShaft696]

Using the stock screws would have rotated the shock mounting 90*. The way he did keeps the bar pin in the same plane as stock.

you don't use the bar pin with the mount that he has installed.

 

[dhodgee]

Using the stock screws would have rotated the shock mounting 90*. The way he did keeps the bar pin in the same plane as stock.

That's why I did it.
The metal that the stock shock mounting (the uni-body cross member) uses is thicker then the sheet metal around it. I just went from the top to avoid welding around my fuel tank, fuel lines, and I can get a better weld from the top rather then underneath.

-The angle of my mounts are the same angle as the factory barpin mounts.

-and my floor had a hole in it on one side from a previous owner that broke the shock bolts off and had to go in from the top... Whats one more hole?

 

[Talyn]

No, but there is still a steel pin that goes through the bushing and it is still in the correct orientation.

 

[dhodgee]

Using the stock screws would have rotated the shock mounting 90*. The way he did keeps the bar pin in the same plane as stock.

Question, couldn't you have just screwed that in the stock holes & welded it in place & not cut the floor, because if you have stock shock mounts on the axle, the top of the shock is turned 90deg now.

The whole point of this project... for me was installing custom shocks and eliminating the poor design. Now I have grade8 hardware to use.

 

[dhodgee]

Here it is welded and painted. The welder went better then I thought considering the different sizes of metal.





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The mount sat farther down then when I first measured... But After a test fit. They are mounted as high as possible. Any higher... I wouldn't have gotten the bolt in.

 

[MrShaft696]

The whole point of this project... for me was installing custom shocks and eliminating the poor design. Now I have grade8 hardware to use.

Yeah I thought the mounts were the other way, I follow now. I've done several versions of this as well. I still personally would't do the cut the floor thing, but I understand getting the highest possible mounting point. My set up runs 90 deg to what you are using then.

 

[dhodgee]

I still personally would't do the cut the floor thing, but I understand getting the highest possible mounting point.

It really didn't bother me cutting through the floor since one side was already cut. I don't think its going to matter much considering I'll grind the bed coating off and weld in some sheet metal and re-coat it!
Good as new. That floor is super thin. That will be fun. :wow:

I just took it on a trial run to work and back and it ran fine. The rear rides way better then before. Its a little stiff but it performs a lot better over bumps then before. Hopefully I can get the same results off-road.