• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Projext "V8 XJ" Build

Radiator received!
3944855C-D8B1-4A2E-936A-B46D4A0FF383_zpsryydk77v.jpg


Volvo 2 speed fan that I'll make a shroud for perfect fit:
8CC8B277-A887-4E1A-8DDB-44E09C4CCB94_zpsyb5g7nij.jpg
 
ehall said:
Interesting damage. Any idea how it happened?

I think I have an extra pump laying around if you can't find one locally
Click to expand...

No idea, it was broken when I separated the halves. What gets me is how long has the oil pump not been working? There is some gunk on the magnet, so I can tell the fluid hasnt been flowing. All of the bearings look good though and.
 
Just Wales out of the Chevy dealer. My engine isn't coming with trans to engine bolts or torque convert bolts. Told the guy at the counter what I needed. He looked up the parts and said the total for everything would be $90!!!!! No way 9 bolts are $10/bolt. My ass. Looked up the prices on GM parts direct and they were $1 per trans bolt and $4 for the torque converter. "Magically" the price decreased to $26 for everything. This is the reason I hate dealers
 
PhotoJared said:
Just Wales out of the Chevy dealer. My engine isn't coming with trans to engine bolts or torque convert bolts. Told the guy at the counter what I needed. He looked up the parts and said the total for everything would be $90!!!!! No way 9 bolts are $10/bolt. My ass. Looked up the prices on GM parts direct and they were $1 per trans bolt and $4 for the torque converter. "Magically" the price decreased to $26 for everything. This is the reason I hate dealers
Click to expand...

If you like $10 bolts, you'll LOVE CANADA! I've been quoted >$30 per trans>engine bolt.
 
There's a reason they are called the Stealership
 
My local pick and pull yard doesnt charge for bolts
 
John D said:
You guys need to make friends with the salvage yards. There's almost no reason to pay for any of those bolts. They typically just recycle them. Drop off a case of their favorite beer and a bucket, next time they disassemble a truck they can fill the bucket with nuts and bolts.
Click to expand...

That would make a lot of sense to do...


Found this odd wear on the selector fork.
F67C35B5-381A-4B0A-AC8C-F102E3117145_zpsgxirci2y.jpg



It goes along with all e sludge I've found in the transfer case. It wasn't getting properly lubricated. Luckily all of the bearings are in very good shape and spin freely with no snags
 
PhotoJared said:
Novak also sends some hodgepodge mix of bolts. I used a mix of Novak's and OEM.

Engine is being delivered tomorrow!!!
Click to expand...

I was actually going to ask about the Novak bolts when I saw the pictures. I guess that answers my question. They sent me what looked like a handful of bolts from the bolt bucket as well. Had to go buy a bunch.
That bolt that you can't access ... really not much you can do. I just wedged something in there and impacted the other side, which seems to have held together.

P.S. Have fun dropping the motor in :) I hated the Novak mount. Too high, and too far forward. I had to bring the motor in pointed down, lift it up from the t-case, and still didn't have enough room at the top of the firewall to clear the intake. Had to pull the t-case because the whole thing needed to go up another inch beyond where the t-case would run into the tunnel. Even with the t-case off, I had to mash the transmission into the tunnel, and use a wratchet strap to force the motor back while grinding the trans on the tunnel, to get clear of the firewall. Then when I tried to drop it down, the motor mount bolts just wouldn't quite clear the holes and I had to do some wedging to get them in. First try took me almost an hour. Will never use those mounts again. If the motor ever needs to come out, I'll just make new mounts. Was duly unimpressed with them.

Also, the AA trans-t-case adapter is a bitch to seal for two reasons. 1. the mating face is very thin and wants to squeeze out any rtv you'e got in there. The big o-ring for the middle of the adapter also needs more RTV.
2. Once it's together, you still need to bolt on the trans mount, but the stock studs aren't quite long enough to get sufficient thread engagement. I'm still running them, but it's not right. If you can find longer studs, install them before screwing around with the stockers.
 
blistovmhz said:
I was actually going to ask about the Novak bolts when I saw the pictures. I guess that answers my question. They sent me what looked like a handful of bolts from the bolt bucket as well. Had to go buy a bunch.
That bolt that you can't access ... really not much you can do. I just wedged something in there and impacted the other side, which seems to have held together.

P.S. Have fun dropping the motor in :) I hated the Novak mount. Too high, and too far forward. I had to bring the motor in pointed down, lift it up from the t-case, and still didn't have enough room at the top of the firewall to clear the intake. Had to pull the t-case because the whole thing needed to go up another inch beyond where the t-case would run into the tunnel. Even with the t-case off, I had to mash the transmission into the tunnel, and use a wratchet strap to force the motor back while grinding the trans on the tunnel, to get clear of the firewall. Then when I tried to drop it down, the motor mount bolts just wouldn't quite clear the holes and I had to do some wedging to get them in. First try took me almost an hour. Will never use those mounts again. If the motor ever needs to come out, I'll just make new mounts. Was duly unimpressed with them.

Also, the AA trans-t-case adapter is a bitch to seal for two reasons. 1. the mating face is very thin and wants to squeeze out any rtv you'e got in there. The big o-ring for the middle of the adapter also needs more RTV.
2. Once it's together, you still need to bolt on the trans mount, but the stock studs aren't quite long enough to get sufficient thread engagement. I'm still running them, but it's not right. If you can find longer studs, install them before screwing around with the stockers.
Click to expand...

The bolt that I can't get to is just a bolt . The nut is welded to the inside of the frame rail.

I've read that everyone has had the same issue with the adapter. RTV all the things!!!

Trans mount is one thin I haven't figured out yet. I'll have someone fab one for me.

Motor and trans were delivered today!
8D23F636-3049-43BC-9E62-DEAE58DDA2E8_zpspv7i3chn.jpg


Going to get the harness sent out Monday
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

F
99 XJ V8 Swapped, now door's will unlock but won't lock
Replies
3
Views
169
FreeRoller16
F
B
91 2 door 5.3 V8 swap
Replies
14
Views
2K
jmg222
J
M
XJ brake upgrade
Replies
7
Views
119
RCP Phx
R
Root Moose
Mild Lifting with OEM Parts
Replies
12
Views
1K
Tim_MN
Tim_MN
A
2000 xj aw4 on 34s 4.88 or 5.13
2 3
Replies
49
Views
5K
Andre2000
A
Back
Top