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Project Geosynchronous Orbit

So I got the front crossmember all finished up with the tie-in mounts for the outer sides.

Those plates are 5/16" thick. Was pretty fun to bend with oxy/acy :D. Pipe wrench/cheater bar made short work of it. Thanks for the help Adam!

BTW...I'm still not that good at plug welds. Each plate has 5 of them. Stitch welded on the back perimeter, and the front perimeter along with the perimeter of the 2.5" hole up front. Shouldn't go anywhere I don't think.

Tie in plates. You can barely make out the plug welds I ground down smooth. Yes I can get the bolt in that top hole, just doesn't look like it from this angle.
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Crappy pic of the front 2.5" hole and the bend back.
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Head on shot.
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Overall I'm pretty happy with how it came out. Getting better at welding against gravity as well.

Next weekend I'll tackle the inner plating and hopefully get the portions to the front of the motor mount done. Any advice on this? Not sure if I should go as far as the factory spot welds or not on the pinch seams.
 
BTW...I'm still not that good at plug welds. Each plate has 5 of them. Stitch welded on the back perimeter, and the front perimeter along with the perimeter of the 2.5" hole up front. Shouldn't go anywhere I don't think.
They're pretty annoying to do when the hole is in the thicker material. When I did my frame rail replacement I took the easy way out, drilled a bunch of 1/2" holes in the frame rail, put the sleeve over it, c-clamped/vice gripped the sleeve to the frame, and welded from the inside. Only reason I could get away with doing that is because I had no floor when I did it, though.
 
I took some pictures while Colin was welding.

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So I don't have a picture, but I finished rebuilding the NP435 this past weekend. I ordered a new shifter retaining kit from Novak (cup, washer, spring) as mine were FUBAR'd.

On that note, I've been reading about upgrading the rear output shaft on the D20 (stock size is 1.125" 10 spline). Not sure if anyone on here has run this t-case but from I found on Pirate4x4 some people recommended doing it. The kit is $500 from WildHorses4x4 (link here). My questioning is I already have the case apart to remove the interlock pins and throw some new gaskets in it, should I upgrade now or wait and see if it breaks?
 
So I think I'm going to stick with my stock case and see what happens.

Also figured out it is a T-shift case, meaning it needs to be disassembled to get the twin-stick capabilities but it has the 2.46:1 gearing rather than 2.34:1.
 
how dare you call my mj craptastic

that thing delivered like 12000 pizzas and did it in style with 30 mpgs
 
Colin, I think your decision to stick with the stock Tcase outputs until they break is a smart move.
 
So I think I'm going to stick with my stock case and see what happens.

Also figured out it is a T-shift case, meaning it needs to be disassembled to get the twin-stick capabilities but it has the 2.46:1 gearing rather than 2.34:1.

Your lame old 4.0 will not break your outrageously awesome transfer case. Dream on wimp.
 
I've been slacking a bit on working on this, but I've had two final exams for my classes and had to go to a Tom Petty concert and down to Cape Cod for a day.

I did however make another purchase. Got these for $760 shipped from Andrew @ LetZRollOffroad on Pirate4x4. Great guy and quick turnaround.

Ford D60 Solid outer knuckles and high steer arms. Double keyed and 6 bolts. Shouldn't be going anywhere.

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This weekend I have to put a new lift pump in my '01 CTD, but I should have time to get the inner rail plating done in the engine bay between Saturday/Sunday.
 
:thumbup: I cant wait to order mine, although I'm going a different route without their arms.


Did they come with new spindle hardware?
 
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