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Project CRD MJ is born:

I saw a mint set of silverstars for sale on craigslist a month ago and was determined to get one of my brothers to hook up their Jeep. I'll post a pic tomorrow.
 
My Bad:
s7301232.jpg

I wonder how many threads I've left hanging. . .
 
Its been half a year and I see no pics?

speaking of progress -- hows that CRD swap coming man? Some of us are anxious to see it!:yelclap:
 
My Bad:
s7301232.jpg

I wonder how many threads I've left hanging. . .

excellent!

speaking of progress -- hows that CRD swap coming man? Some of us are anxious to see it!:yelclap:

Zero progress, had to build a van for my dad to live in, then I was back in school, then the tranny in the CRD went out from being run without fluid. Then I've been doing emissions testing on a John Deere 4045T engine all last week...........now I need to build a chicken coop......I need to drive to colorado springs to put the new tires on my Yellow jeep which my mom is driving right now...........

So ya.
 
Gonna play dead thread revival.

Any news on this? I've been quite keen on the idea of a CRD in an XJ or MJ and this project caught my eye.

Hope everything is well with you in any case - life can definitely be overwhelming at times.
 
Time to bring this one back to life. I've been drooling over a CRD swap in my XJ for years now. Any progress?

No - Every second I spend in the garage has to make me money until I can find a job. I'm itching to work on it, but there's not a while lot else I can do for now without spending bucks on it.
 
:shocked: That's rediculously cheap! :tear: I've been drooling over a CRD swap since I saw it on dieselpowermag.com.

I got my CRD engine(not complete vehicle) for $700.

Complete pull-outs pop up on craigslist once in a blue moon for reasonible prices, recently there was one for sale in dallas for $2000.

Gotta keep an eye out, and comb the web.
 
This is the 96- steering column hole:
MJ236.jpg


This the 97+ steering column hole, it needs to to cutout and moved obviously. Not exactly sure how I will go about that.
MJ237.jpg


Here you can see that the newer C101 plug hole, what I will probably do it cutout the donor shape and then use the bolt holes in the older plug to hold the plate in place.
MJ238.jpg

MJ239.jpg


This is the older style steering column bracket, it will need to but cutout and the new one(below) welded in.
MJ240.jpg

MJ241.jpg


Here you can see the older style heater core hole is a little different, but it'll work.
MJ242.jpg

MJ243.jpg


Here you can see the upper dash bolt points are different, not sure what to do about those.
MJ244.jpg

MJ245.jpg


This is the older side mount bracket studs/bolt holes, the newer style is below, as you can see there are a fair amount of differences.
MJ246.jpg

MJ247.jpg


This is the older style door post latch, this is a little tricky but can be dealt with fairly easily.
MJ248.jpg

MJ249.jpg
 
And this is where I think I will mount the filter head:
MJ250.jpg


I'm not sure why but I have a filter head with different banjo fittings on it, which won't work in my configuration, so the bent stockers are perfect.
MJ251.jpg


Steering column/dash bracket cutoff:
MJ253.jpg

MJ254.jpg


Lets do this:
MJ255.jpg


Passenger side bracket welded on(the thin stuff at the top was a bitch)
MJ256.jpg


I got the drivers side partially welded on then tossed the dash in place to make sure I had measured the right place to weld the brackets on. Looks good to me, dash sits in place like it should.
MJ257.jpg
 
You are welding with way to much heat and wire speed. You need to start on the solid metal and "wick" the puddle onto the thin sheet metal edge... This will keep you from blowing through so much. You also need to clean the metal first, paint and dirt will just contaminate the weld and make heat less consistant. This will make it harder to control.

Just some tips.

-Chris.
 
You are welding with way to much heat and wire speed. You need to start on the solid metal and "wick" the puddle onto the thin sheet metal edge... This will keep you from blowing through so much. You also need to clean the metal first, paint and dirt will just contaminate the weld and make heat less consistant. This will make it harder to control.

Just some tips.

-Chris.

While I appreciate the tips there's not much I can change here(other than the operator/skill), I am using a 1/32" rod at the lowest amperage I can on my Arc welder.
(I have various types and thickness's of rods but I have found the particular one I am using to be the best for this type of thin sheet, the problem I run into with thicker rods(at the same amperage is that they become near impossible to strike at currents where I need them)

I did start the puddle on the thicker material but the second to you try pull the puddle up onto the thin thin stuff of that upper bit it just burns through.

Paint was removed for the welded surfaces.

The lower spots the material is quite a bit thicker and those tacks came out quite nice.
 
I did start the puddle on the thicker material but the second to you try pull the puddle up onto the thin thin stuff of that upper bit it just burns through.

That is your issue. You don't pull your rod onto the thin stuff. You let your puddle "wicK" onto the edge. Baisicly wrather than let the rod burn into the sheet metal you let the maltent pool of metal you are pushing around, flow onto the edge and it burns in. It's sheet metal so you are not looking to penetrate the steel, your just looking to fuse it together.

-Chris.
 
This build is the sex. Good work so far, man. I can't wait to see more of this. :thumbup:
 
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