• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Project: Craigslist Budget Build

Just have to have the right perches and what not added to the axle. There are kits all over the place with the 8.8. If you're doing the swap anyway, I would just go for the 8.8. I just swapped a 27 spline out for a 29 spline, and I was thinking about how I'll probably end up swapping it again in the next few years.
 
So the 8.8 is better than a 9? My absolute max tire even ions down the road will never exceed 35". But I wouldn't mind being a little overkill with my axles.
 
The 8.8 has good aftermarket support, can easily be found with disc brakes, and is not quite as coveted as a 9" so junkyard parts usually can be had for cheaper. Both axles are stronger than a dana 44, and have bigger ring gears, so running 35's shouldn't be an issue (I use that term lightly because everyone wheels differently). The 9" is the stronger axle in most opinions, but like I said: support, and cost.
 
that and depending on the vehicle the 9in is out of you will have to narrow or change your bolt pattern, or swap in another front axle.

i agree with what n2l said, 8.8's are stout and can be had fairly cheap, plus have lots of aftermarket support
 
Delete.jpg

So maybe not the greatest picture but at least you can see it's not sitting in the backyard :) the engine runs terrific it's very stout smooth acceleration trans shifts good everything like that works awesome. Still trying to get my temp gauge to work I think it's the harness side of the connector it looks sort of melted and like somebody tried to cobble it together with no succes. Still need my oil dip tube, and hood latch cable. I do believe the RMS I replaced is leaking but I have read several threads on here where guys have replaced the and they still leaked even for a few months then one day they just stop, I don't think I'm too concerned, at least not yet. Overall and drove good for the first drive. I definately need a better steering stabilizer and an IRO Double Sheer Adj. Trac Bar :)

On a different subject, My wife's 98 XJ has had a leaky heater core the whole two years we've owned it. About a month ago the heat went out completely I bought the core but have been putting it off as long as I could. It's starting to get bitter here in NC especially at 3 am when I go to work. So the other day I started to remove everything and HOLY SH**! I have the dash loose but not off because i'm trying my level best to not have to pull the steering wheel, is this possible? I can see all the heater box but where in the HELL is the heater core and how do I get to it? Normally I don't get mechanically frusterated but i'm about to torch this thing and call it a day. If anybody can help me at all I will truly appreciate it.
 
My hood latch cable came in I'm pretty excited about not having to wrap the bare cable around the fender support just to drive it down the road. Called my local Dodge dealership and couldn't believe they only wanted $16.99 for a dipstick and tube!! That has to be a rocord low price for a dealership :) Hoping to take it today for a little bit longer of a drive to my In-Laws farm to my spare trooper and unload a TON of spare tires and engine parts and make a little bit more room. More to come soon.
 
the heater box has to come out completely and then be split in half to remove the core. the evap core is in there so it will have to be disconnected also. You should be able to just drop the steering column without pulling the wheel. The dash will pull away and the hvac box should be attached to the firewall, couple more bolts and it should come out
 
Well progress on the XJ has come to a screeching hault as I believe I'm about to buy a 95 YJ! It is a 4 cyl. 5 spd 2 in body lift and I believe 1 1/2 shackles ( the current owner bought it as is and doesn't really know crap about anything on it). A few of the goodies that I can think of are front and rear ARB air lockers, he says he thinks he remembers the guy saying it has 4.56 yukons front and rear but can't remember. You can feel in first it's definately not stock. 33x12.50 BFG AT's 8000lb warn winch smittybuilt rfont and rear tubers Tom Woods front shaft new BesTop softy and bestop seats and center console grant steering wheel Warn front diff cover, riddler rear.. Needs motor mounts one is missing the rubber and a valve cover gasket but it runs and drives AWESOME. He needs money to put a down payment on a car for his wife :) so he's askin 5 grand. I think it's a damn steal. I hope the bank pulls through :)

wrangler.jpg
 
Just ordered. IRO Double Sheer Track Bar w/ Free holiday special shipping and the TrailMaster coil over steering stabilizer! Pretty stoked hopefully after this & an alignment it will at least be driveable. it's killing me just sitting there
 
Well I got the Track Bar and SS on and it seems to be about 50% better with the DW. I'm hoping like crazy with a good alignment and getting the old KM1's balanced it'll be at least tolerable.
 
Progress on my 96 sort of came to a grinding hault since I bought this a few weeks ago :)

Jeep-1.jpg


1989 Cherokee 189k on the clock SBC 350/Turbo 350 Trans
Motor and trans have 1500 on them since complete rebuild both are very strong, even the little 3 spd lol
Mild crane cam and a few other internal goodies
Very clean swap job
8in roughish mickey mouse lift but doesnt ride terrible
HP30 and C8.25 out of 2000 XJ with 85k on them
SYE
35x12.50 15 Panelli ones Dirt Grips
MT D window's
Rust free this thing is absolutely awesome.
In the very very near future plan on swapping for 8.8 and waggy 44 4.56 undecided on spools lockers LSD not sure yet. JCR 1 ton with hydro assist. Some better breaks, their about scary. And some frame stiffeners. Definately more pics to come soon finally stopped raining.
 
What is that attached to the side where people normally put sliders? Is that where you hang your dish towels?
 
Yes I had actually just removed them because it started to rain lol. I know there absolutely redonculous I hate them and I really can't wait to chop the off then in the future run the stage 3 JCR with the little step on it. . for the misses.


Ok quick question. I have been back and forth with a million different types of steering setups for my 96 the white one and I think I have finally landed on the JCR 1 ton but now I just don't know if I want to go UTK or OTK I have been researching the heck out of this I promise I'm not trying to beat the dead horse and get everybody pissed at me. Due to my vehicle situation ( buying the little SBC powered rig) my 96 is going to turn into a DD Which means soon I'll be putting my sway bar back on and I'm not at all concerened about drag link clearance issues I'm just looking for a good solid steering set-up. . WITH NO DA** DW!! So that leaves me with utk because otk I can't run me sway bar correct? Please confirm this for me! Also the future plans for the '89 is JCR 1 ton OTK with Hydro Assist :)
Please help me out it is very much appreciated!!
 
YES finally found a factory harness side stereo connector at the Pick N Pull for the white one and got it in. No more redneck direct wiring job!! The head unit cuts off when you turn the key off. . it's the simple things in life. .
 
The zero or negative progress on either jeeps is driving me nuts, But I think I am about to sell my 3rd XJ and have a little bit of cash flow and hopefully will be able to do the following to my white one
JCR 1 ton utk with their box spacer
Some sort of box brace
General Rabber AT2's most like 31's as it's going to be my dd and they don't offer 32's
Soft 8's with 1.5 spacers
LCA drop brackets
Possibly new uppers

Just trying to do everything possible to make it as on road friendly as I can.
Hopefully more to come soon.
 
Back
Top