most any "race" shock will already come with the misalignment spacers for the rod ends that allow them to articulate plenty without also adding tapered weld washers on the shock mount itself. But if you do feel you need to do that style then you can find them at aa manufacturing, camburg, mckenzies, kartek etc. I measured the rod end mounting width in the shock, took the spacers out and shimmed with washers until they were slightly overwide for weld shrinkage, bolted the two shock mount plates together and welded them up. I used the T&Js mounts on top to save time.slcpunk74 said:Im gonna make my uppers and lowers so I need to just find those tapered bushing deals.
Absolutely not, that's fine, but damn how long is that hose? Seems like it would have to be a good 2 feet to allow it to mount like that. What kind of shocks?Old thread I know, but I figured My question could be answered here.
Is the anything wrong with mounting a reservoir shock's reservoir upside down(shrader valve pointed up) to the shock body?
Just wondering if it could operate properly that way. The shocks I just got bought hose is really too long to mount it the correct way.
If you run the hose higher and further forwars you are in front of the pinch weld seam.
Then use a couple of clamps to hold the hose in place. The reservoir higher up. The hose will be safe that way.
My fenders are cut so much that I couldn't do it. I'll try and post a picture of my inner fender rework I'm doing later today.
you were the one talking about moving the battery and taking that dip in the fender "out" right?
btw where have you been for the last few months?
Old thread I know, but I figured My question could be answered here.
Is the anything wrong with mounting a reservoir shock's reservoir upside down(shrader valve pointed up) to the shock body?
Just wondering if it could operate properly that way. The shocks I just got bought hose is really too long to mount it the correct way.