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Pre-runner type suspension stuff

Roxtar said:
My concern for those ACOS hydros is in protecting them.
A big problem with lifted Jeeps is having the spring bow.
The stock bumpstops hit the inside of the springs and you end up with a compromise. Setting up the stops to bottom at a right angle forces you to accept some spring rub on the way down. Avoiding the spring rub leads to a funky angle when they bottom.
Obviously neither of these scenarios are acceptable with $900 hydro bumpstops.
Longarm four or three link setups help but don't get rid of this completely.
Darn good point! By the time you adjust the ACOS bumpstop down far enough to even take advantage of the bump travel it will sit way lower than a stock ACOS. Heck that low and like you sais all the rubbing and angle problems you could end up running the bottom of the hydro bum right thru or against a coil wrap. At least with the weld in type you could raise them up then build up the lower coil bucket for height. I wonder what the minimum lenght is for a ACOS pro vs a standard ACOS? Just called them and heres what I got. It's a 2" hydro bump that is made by radflow. Minimum extended lenght will put you at exacly 2" longer than a standard ACOS. The treaded tube and diameter is the same for both but to install the pro you cut off the factory tower and bolt the top thru the body. Since the top of the standard ACOS is threaded for the ACOS tube you could drill and mount it the same way and find a radflow 2" bumpstop that will slide into the tube and..........no more time to play right now but gives some ideas to toss around.
 
Stumpalump said:
Darn good point! By the time you adjust the ACOS bumpstop down far enough to even take advantage of the bump travel it will sit way lower than a stock ACOS. Heck that low and like you sais all the rubbing and angle problems you could end up running the bottom of the hydro bum right thru or against a coil wrap. At least with the weld in type you could raise them up then build up the lower coil bucket for height. I wonder what the minimum lenght is for a ACOS pro vs a standard ACOS? Just called them and heres what I got. It's a 2" hydro bump that is made by radflow. Minimum extended lenght will put you at exacly 2" longer than a standard ACOS. The treaded tube and diameter is the same for both but to install the pro you cut off the factory tower and bolt the top thru the body. Since the top of the standard ACOS is threaded for the ACOS tube you could drill and mount it the same way and find a radflow 2" bumpstop that will slide into the tube and..........no more time to play right now but gives some ideas to toss around.
Ok its time to play again.... Please resume the converstion please. My question is...It sounds like the acos norm is a great product and everyone should have one right? Ok then if this Pro Bump sounds like its worthless why did they make it? I think its a great design and i want to see it in action. there has to be someone out there that has a set??????:rattle:
 
Though I'm not sure how'd it work with ACOS or similar I moved my bumpstop tower to stop the coil rubbing by cutting half way through it, bending it back, and then welding it back together.
standard.jpg

Very easy to do and you can dial in the proper angle for it.
 
Uglygreenxj said:
I just finished installing a Currie Anti-rock and thought I'd post up some pics. My upper limit strap mounts on the frame would have interfered with the anti-rocks arms so I had an offset bent into them so they would clear. I also trimmed off the last two holes on the arms. I started with their 35.75" wide universal kit with 17" long steel arms. I've got the links on the stiffest setting and it made a night and day difference.

Also installed Currie steering. Everything is nice and tight now. Just have to get the front end aligned.

Can you tell me dimensions on the tube for building the mount. I can figure out the ID from the delrin bushings, but what was the OD/Length you used ??
 
WheelinJR said:
Can you tell me dimensions on the tube for building the mount. I can figure out the ID from the delrin bushings, but what was the OD/Length you used ??
the universal kit comes with the tube for mounting, if you got a deal on just the torsion rod and links and are missing the tube for whatever reason I can measure it for you, it is .120" wall so you should be able to get the OD from that.
Chris
 
Skullvarian said:
the universal kit comes with the tube for mounting, if you got a deal on just the torsion rod and links and are missing the tube for whatever reason I can measure it for you, it is .120" wall so you should be able to get the OD from that.
Chris
I have the TJ kit, which is basically the universal 35.75" kit without the tube. I plan on building my own, just wasn't sure on the length mostly.

Oh and yeah, I can definitely get the OD from that. I kinda figured .120" would be standard.

I'm starting to realize the bushing sizing gets weird there, 2.562" ID is gonna be a hard one to get a normal OD from. Do you think the hard Delrin is a must, or would a poly work. I have a silly selection of poly in the shop, so that's another option. Otherwise I suppose I could get the Currie Universal bushing too.
 
WheelinJR said:
I have the TJ kit, which is basically the universal 35.75" kit without the tube. I plan on building my own, just wasn't sure on the length mostly.

Oh and yeah, I can definitely get the OD from that. I kinda figured .120" would be standard.

I'm starting to realize the bushing sizing gets weird there, 2.562" ID is gonna be a hard one to get a normal OD from. Do you think the hard Delrin is a must, or would a poly work. I have a silly selection of poly in the shop, so that's another option. Otherwise I suppose I could get the Currie Universal bushing too.
mine is all installed so it is hard to get a good measurement but the tube is 1.75" OD and around 33.75" long, Hope that helps, your bushings seem to be bigger than mine for some reason if you are getting a 2.562" ID. You definitely need the harder stuff as there will quite a bit of slop using softer material, I don't think they would last long at all.
good luck
Chris
 
Skullvarian said:
mine is all installed so it is hard to get a good measurement but the tube is 1.75" OD and around 33.75" long, Hope that helps, your bushings seem to be bigger than mine for some reason if you are getting a 2.562" ID.
Chris

Yeah the TJ kit has the bushings to fit in the factory tube that is already in the frame, with the goofy flat sides. I bought the TJ kit because the price jump for the universal kit was pretty big, as I was able to score a pretty good deal on the TJ version.

The delrin bushings are significantly harder than poly, so if that is crucial I will stay away from the poly stuff. I suppose I can probably also get Currie to send me some of the universal delrin's
 
I wound up using harbor freight rubber mallet heads for lower bumpstop extensions. I was able to cut them on an angle so they hit the upper ACOS bumpstop just right. I cut the head off of a lag bolt and welded the threaded part onto the lower bumpstop plate and screwed the mallet heads right on. Sounds chezzy but it's been working great! We did a snow run this weekend and I could not see some of the bumps untill it was too late. I could hardly feel the front bottom out and they are holding up fine. I use 1 hockey puck on an extended spring plate on the rear and I could feel it thump out hard so I'm going to cut up another ruber mallet for replacements and may add shock mounted bumpstops to the rear shocks. Any body ever fool with these shock mounted bumpstops to add a little progression to your regular bumpstop?
http://www.stylintrucks.com/parts.aspx?attribute_value_string%7CBrand=Daystar&selected_prod_ids=1949
 
Stumpalump said:
I may add shock mounted bumpstops to the rear shocks. Any body ever fool with these shock mounted bumpstops to add a little progression to your regular bumpstop?
http://www.stylintrucks.com/parts.aspx?attribute_value_string%7CBrand=Daystar&selected_prod_ids=1949

I don't have those yet, but want them for the XJ. I think it's a great idea, especially since they made them so they can be installed on virtually any shock.

I have shaft bumps on all four coilovers on the buggy and they work well, with no other bumpstops.
 
Don't buy the red ones! I stoped in a Desert Rat store in Albuqurque yesterday and they had the red ones in stock. About as stiff a seat foam. You need to buy one of two different installation tools depending on your shock or they rip when you put them on. It's basically a cone that slips over the shock that you grease up.
 
Stumpalump said:
Don't buy the red ones! I stoped in a Desert Rat store in Albuqurque yesterday and they had the red ones in stock. About as stiff a seat foam. You need to buy one of two different installation tools depending on your shock or they rip when you put them on. It's basically a cone that slips over the shock that you grease up.
Thanks for the info.
About to order some. I'll get the black ones.
 
Back from the dead....:D

Who here is running Deaver coils and/or leafs?
 
JNickel101 said:
Who here is running Deaver coils and/or leafs?
me
 
Sweet - you running 4" or 5.5" coils? 4" rear leafs? Happen to know what their spring rate is? I emailed them and they said their standard ones are 180#/in...i thought that seemed kinda soft. I was thinking they were more like 220....

I want to build something that is good for pre-running, but is also rock-crawl capable. I want a decent balance - not too soft for pre-running, but not too stiff for rock crawling. Do I have that idea right?
 
JNickel101 said:
Back from the dead....:D

Who here is running Deaver coils and/or leafs?

Im running them X2 on lovng them. I was told by deaver they are 280-300 springs

2430018942_4f1e57c8f5.jpg
 
best place to buy deaver stuff?
 
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