Pre-runner type suspension stuff

[TNT]

Here you go.

 

[Uglygreenxj]

Here's the finished product in the rear. Off to do the fronts now, hopefully they'll be a little easier, the rears were a pain.







I kinda copied the design from the TMR Jeepspeed, I hope they don't mind, it just looked too good not to. Turned out nice I think.

 

[Goatman]

Nice job. I still want air bumps in the rear of the XJ one of these days.......

How did you secure the bumps in the mounting cans?

 

[Uglygreenxj]

Nice job. I still want air bumps in the rear of the XJ one of these days.......

How did you secure the bumps in the mounting cans?

I ordered the kit from T&J for the front and they simply drilled a hole in the side of the can and tapped it, and installed a set screw with a jam nut. I have heard of the clamp style ones squeezing the bump too much and not allowing the piston to move freely so I assume that is why they changed it to this style. Anyway, I didn't feel that it was enough material to tap so I drilled a hole in the can and welded a flanged nut to the outside of the can and then installed a set screw and jam nut. We'll see how it holds up.

 

[Goatman]

I ordered the kit from T&J for the front and they simply drilled a hole in the side of the can and tapped it, and installed a set screw with a jam nut. I have heard of the clamp style ones squeezing the bump too much and not allowing the piston to move freely so I assume that is why they changed it to this style. Anyway, I didn't feel that it was enough material to tap so I drilled a hole in the can and welded a flanged nut to the outside of the can and then installed a set screw and jam nut. We'll see how it holds up.

Well, that's what it looked like, but I wondered. How thick is the wall of the bump stop tubing? If the clamp type would squeeze it too much, it seems like a set screw could damage it also. Hmmmm.......

 

[Uglygreenxj]

Well, that's what it looked like, but I wondered. How thick is the wall of the bump stop tubing? If the clamp type would squeeze it too much, it seems like a set screw could damage it also. Hmmmm.......

That worried me too. I don't know what the wall thickness is of the bumps. I figured that the guys that are racing are way harder on them than I will be and it's working for them so...... Plus, I wouldn't have had room to build mine with clamps. I had to mount mine a bit higher than most do due to already having pads built on my axle and I didn't want to pull the axle to change it at this stage.

 

[Skullver]

That worried me too. I don't know what the wall thickness is of the bumps. I figured that the guys that are racing are way harder on them than I will be and it's working for them so...... Plus, I wouldn't have had room to build mine with clamps. I had to mount mine a bit higher than most do due to already having pads built on my axle and I didn't want to pull the axle to change it at this stage.

I really wouldn't worry about the set screw, they are made to keep the bump from falling out which is not very likely as it was a real tight fit on mine, had to grease them up good and even hit the inside with a drum sander after welding shrinkage to even get them in, not doing anything towards compression as the lip of the bump is tight against the tubing stopping any movement. Looking really good, may have to change your user name as it is not ugly IMO.
Chris

 

[Uglygreenxj]

I really wouldn't worry about the set screw, they are made to keep the bump from falling out which is not very likely as it was a real tight fit on mine, had to grease them up good and even hit the inside with a drum sander after welding shrinkage to even get them in, not doing anything towards compression as the lip of the bump is tight against the tubing stopping any movement. Looking really good, may have to change your user name as it is not ugly IMO.
Chris

Thank you for the complement! I used 2-1/4" O.D. tubing with a thinner wall thickness than .120 so that I wouldn't have the shrinkage issues I had heard about. It didn't shrink up much if at all so they actually fit loosly. I finally got the fuel cell installed and plumbed today and started the Jeep up and drove it for the first time in over a year! Even with the front windows down and the rear windows gone, the exhause fumes come in pretty badly with no hatch. I'll have to figure something out.

 

[Jump This]

Its important to realize the eddy (sp?) effect our Jeeps have from having a large flat back window area. Without a rear window you will be pulling exhaust fumes thru your rig, open windows or not. You might look into a side exit point for the muffler.
My exhaust exits just about the same point as yours. I don't do much high speed stuff (you guys are all nuts!) but I still pull in fumes just from around my shock towers (inside mounted.)
How are the other Jeepspeed guys dealing with it.....?

Rick

 

[Skullver]

Its important to realize the eddy (sp?) effect our Jeeps have from having a large flat back window area. Without a rear window you will be pulling exhaust fumes thru your rig, open windows or not. You might look into a side exit point for the muffler.
My exhaust exits just about the same point as yours. I don't do much high speed stuff (you guys are all nuts!) but I still pull in fumes just from around my shock towers (inside mounted.)
How are the other Jeepspeed guys dealing with it.....?

Rick

Parker pumper fresh air system, just don't spill any gas near the intake or you will smell it/breathe it for a bit. Ours will have the exhaust coming behind/under the driver door

 

[Jump This]

Parker pumper fresh air system, just don't spill any gas near the intake or you will smell it/breathe it for a bit. Ours will have the exhaust coming behind/under the driver door

That is what I thaught.
But look at the problem from a hobbiest point of view.
A Parker system isn't cheap and is most effective for dust situations right?
So to solve the pulling in of fumes you need to move the exit point of the exhaust into a 'moving' air flow area. There are certainly many ways of doing that. The pipe can exit below the rear axel, not rock friendly. Or you could have it well above the roof line, completely effective , but I'd bet it would look ugly as sin. Or move it to a side exit point.
You guys try all of those and let me know which one works the best.


Rick

 

[Uglygreenxj]

That is what I thaught.
But look at the problem from a hobbiest point of view.
A Parker system isn't cheap and is most effective for dust situations right?
So to solve the pulling in of fumes you need to move the exit point of the exhaust into a 'moving' air flow area. There are certainly many ways of doing that. The pipe can exit below the rear axel, not rock friendly. Or you could have it well above the roof line, completely effective , but I'd bet it would look ugly as sin. Or move it to a side exit point.
You guys try all of those and let me know which one works the best.


Rick

I use my Jeep for rock crawling also, so a side exit exhaust would get mangled really quick. And parker pumpers and helmets aren't really practical for what we'll be using it for so they're out. And since I plan to still drive it on the street ocasionally I can't really ditch the windsheild either. I was thinking about installing some of the vents in the roof I've seen on some of the Jeepspeeds, I'm just not sure where they're sourcing them. RV stuff maybe?

 

[Jump This]

I was thinking about installing some of the vents in the roof I've seen on some of the Jeepspeeds, I'm just not sure where they're sourcing them. RV stuff maybe?

You could probably get away with a steet car hood scoop also.

But don't dump the side exit idea without some thaught. It wouldn't need to exstend beyond the body panels and you could even recess it a bit....

Rick

 

[Goatman]

You could probably get away with a steet car hood scoop also.

But don't dump the side exit idea without some thaught. It wouldn't need to exstend beyond the body panels and you could even recess it a bit....

Rick

But it would have to go under the frame rail, which wouldn't work on the trail. I tried for one trip exiting right behind the muffler with a turned down pipe, but on the trail it kicked up so much dust that it was a real PIA.

 

[Jump This]

But it would have to go under the frame rail, which wouldn't work on the trail. I tried for one trip exiting right behind the muffler with a turned down pipe, but on the trail it kicked up so much dust that it was a real PIA.

This problem will go into my "Deep Thaught" file....someday I'll come up with a neat solution.

Rick

When was the last time you were in the dirt anyway? Rocks yes....dirt?

 

[FordGuy]

I just finished building my Semi Jeep Speed/Trail Rig and decided to use the Currie Anti-Rock sway bar, Hopefully wont have that problem??

 

[Jump This]

This problem will go into my "Deep Thought" file....someday I'll come up with a neat solution.

Rick

When was the last time you were in the dirt anyway? Rocks yes....dirt?

Another idea.
There is no reason not to cut a hole through the frame rails as long as you weld in a tube to regain the structural integrity of the rail. Look how your stock gas filler line goes through the rail. After this hole is cut and supported run the exhaust out that way.
I just might do that to my rig....

Rick

 

[Uglygreenxj]

Another idea.
There is no reason not to cut a hole through the frame rails as long as you weld in a tube to regain the structural integrity of the rail. Look how your stock gas filler line goes through the rail. After this hole is cut and supported run the exhaust out that way.
I just might do that to my rig....

Rick

It's funny you mentioned that, I had been giving that exact idea some serious thought also. Just like you said, the gas filler hose goes through like that, so why no the exhaust? If you move forward with this idea please be sure to post pics!

 

[TNT]

I was thinking about installing some of the vents in the roof I've seen on some of the Jeepspeeds, I'm just not sure where they're sourcing them. RV stuff maybe?

You could probably get away with a steet car hood scoop also.

But don't dump the side exit idea without some thought. It wouldn't need to extend beyond the body panels and you could even recess it a bit....

Rick

Check into rally cars. They use roof vents that can be opened and closed.

ALUMINUM RALLY ROOF VENT
Versatile vent has two modes of operation
This lightweight item attaches to the underside of your roof skin and allows fresh air to flow into the cockpit thru a 7" x 3' opening. The lid fits tight and sits a little proud of the roofline to minimize water entry while raining and to prevent seepage when sitting in the elements. Use with ROOF SCOOP (described above) for full effect. Opens forward and backward to stuff air into the cockpit (pressurizing cabin and reducing dust entry) or draw air out for a more gentle airflow on transits. Requires medium skill to install and the willingness to cut a hole in your roof.

With roof scoop

 

[Kevin3151]

But it would have to go under the frame rail, which wouldn't work on the trail. I tried for one trip exiting right behind the muffler with a turned down pipe, but on the trail it kicked up so much dust that it was a real PIA.

I found this out the hard way too. No one wants to spot me on the dusty trails now.

KH