• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

poor mans stroker

littlebluexj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
tulsa,Ok
I know that the stroker motor has been covered left and right but I just need one real question answered.

I have an 88 xj 4.0 and it has 230,000 miles on it and I have read the rockcrawler.com stroking the 4.0 write up and he started with a non HO and then in the middle was talking about the HO.

Will the 4.5 poor mans stroker work with my motor?All i want to do is what he did.

Thank you for the help.
William
 
I have not read the article you are refering to. However, there is no reason you can not build any of the standard stroker models with either a HO or Non HO motor.

Michael
 
O believe the HO and non-HO differences lie in the heads mostly with the actual block being the same. Isn't the 4.5 stroker made by using a 258 crank?
 
All the strokers are made using the 258 / 4.2L crank. The differences are in the amount the cylinders are bored.
 
Im not going to bore the cylinders any just want to use the 258 crank and conection rods only with a crane cam and HO injectors.

This is suppose to work right?
 
littlebluexj said:
Im not going to bore the cylinders any just want to use the 258 crank and conection rods only with a crane cam and HO injectors.

This is suppose to work right?
Should, but how do you figure a block with 230k miles won't need an overbore? Also, you'll need to run premium gas.
 
Premium gas is not neccesary. It all depends on quench height and compression ratio, which is affected by a whole CRAP load of things like deck hieght, gasket thickness, etc.
 
400HP/401 High Performance Long Block

Universal High Performance AMC Street Rod Engine.
Base Price: $ 3499.00
High Performance Long Block: $ 3,999.00


omg i so wish i had one of those.. im gona start saving up. now.
 
Rerplacing stock pistons was my idea also; however after disassembling several 4.0's I have found that most need a minimum of .030 bore, my first one neded .060. Any 4.0 with 200K WILL need a bore.
 
littlebluexj said:
Im not going to bore the cylinders any just want to use the 258 crank and conection rods only with a crane cam and HO injectors.

This is suppose to work right?

Your 230k old block will almost certainly need a rebore so i think you'd better look at one of my 4.6 stroker recipes and decide which one fits your needs:

http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/stroker.html

Yes, you can keep all of your Renix hardware and build a Renix stroker along the same lines as a HO stroker. The only real difference will be a few less HP.
Unless you build a low compression stroker, it's more likely that you'll be running 89 or 91 octane fuel to keep the pinging blues away.
 
I have to keep my rebuild under 1000 dollars and the local custom motor builders are charging me 950 for what i posted a 4.5 stroker no frils just motor.new crank,cam,pistons rings seals gaskets,conecting rods,timing system and balanced.For 100 more i can get in ported and for 500 more i can get it taken out of my jeep and installed in a week give or take.those were the almost exact words from the shop.the compresion i want is 8.6:1
 
Last edited:
also on your site I see that all of them have ford 24 pound injectors why is it i was told i could use HO 19 lb injectors.

I wanted to do this.
4.5L "Poor man's" simple stroker

Jeep 4.2L 3.895" stroke crank
Jeep 4.2L 5.875" rods
Speed Pro 677CP standard bore pistons
9.05:1 CR
Stock 4.0 HO camshaft
Ported HO 1.91"/1.50" cylinder head
Stock 0.051" head gasket
0.097" quench height
2.25" exhaust
Ford 24lb/hr injectors with stock 39psi FPR for '87-'95 engines, stock injectors with stock 49psi FPR for '96 and later engines
245hp @ 4800rpm, 305lbft @ 3250rpm

But with my motor will i need this

4.7L medium-buck stroker

Jeep 4.2L 3.895" stroke crank
Jeep 4.0L 6.125" rods
Custom +0.060" bore pistons with 1.38" pin height & 25cc dish
9.6:1 CR
Crane #753905 204/216 degree camshaft
Ported big valve 2.02"/1.60" cylinder head
Mopar/Victor 0.043" head gasket
0.043" quench height
Flometrics F&B 68mm billet TB
Accel 26lb/hr injectors with adjustable FPR or MAP adjuster for '87-'95 engines, Accel 26lb/hr injectors with stock 49psi FPR for '96 and later engines.
270hp @ 4800rpm, 335lbft @ 3400rpm
 
You can get a crankshaft, turned with bearings, for less than $300 from most parts stores. Speedpro hypereutectic pistons from Summit for $21 apiece, fit a set of 258 rods with arp bolts and freshened and still afford the boring and having the head freshened. Compression will be higher than you want a bit but if you set the quench distance up right you should be able to run 87 octane I think. From everything I have read you WILL want the 24lb injectors. Should come very close to your budget.
 
littlebluexj said:
...and for 500 more i can get it taken out of my jeep and installed in a week give or take.

I wouldn't use anybody who would do it that cheap, unless its a friend and he is giving you a break. Any quality shop should charge you quite a bit more than that. $500 for the R&R is way too low.

You get what you pay for...or usually less than you pay for. So for $500, don't expect it to be right.
 
I have used the shop twice once for my 89 CRX and then for my 93Civic SIR they did motors in all of them and they ran great and the reason it is that cheap is because i am a cash cusomer for 4 years now my dad has had all of his race motors built there.
 
Back
Top