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Polished dana 30 question.

hmm.
alright so i'm going to speak to cal within the next week and start looking into my options.
keep in mind i'm on the atlantic north east... not too much crazy stuff out here in NY. but go big or go home.

Thanks for all the input.
 
lancey3 said:
Cal,

Last month someone asked nearly the same question and you told them not to waste their time and get a 44. Change of heart? :loveu:
Click to expand...


I vaguely remember that thread, but not the circumstance behind it. I've always been a huge dana 30 supporter, the biggest reason I see to do a 44 is 5.13 and 5.38 gears, I don't think a 44 (staying 30 spline) will be any stronger than a well built dana 30.
 
cal said:
The dana 30 is MORE than enough to run 35's with. I can and do *POUND* on my dana 30 with 35's and have zero fear of it breaking, and even @ places like JV all i carry for spares is 1 stub shaft. I'd run 37's on it with only minor second thoughts. People who say that its impossible or that i clearly dont use my jeep .. well, they dont know me or the local terrain (not exactly fire roads).

If you havent found a super 30 kit, you havent looked. Try googling for "super 30" (superior) or "grande 30" (alloy-usa), alloy usa also offers 30 spline stub axles and unit bearings - which are stronger than what a dana 44 offers you.

If you wanted to run average trails on an average budget with average throttle, buy some Alloy-USA 27 spline shafts, keep your aussie (a good locker), some spicer or CTM u-joints, and alloy-usa stubs with new timken unit bearings. Add a TNT truss ($300?) and a crane or riddler diff cover ($100) (it will help prevent some ring gear deflection and strenthen things a bit). You won't need to worry.

-Cal
Click to expand...

X2:thumbup:
 
Gravel Maker said:
BTW, try a Ruffstuff Diff cover for the best protection!
Click to expand...

X2 Awesome product!!:thumbup:
 
cal said:
I vaguely remember that thread, but not the circumstance behind it. I've always been a huge dana 30 supporter, the biggest reason I see to do a 44 is 5.13 and 5.38 gears, I don't think a 44 (staying 30 spline) will be any stronger than a well built dana 30.
Click to expand...


Axle shaft wise a HP D44 won't be stronger, but the housing, axle tubes, carrier, knuckles and brakes are stonger. Lockouts are another plus as are the steering options you can do.
 
TNT said:
Axle shaft wise a HP D44 won't be stronger, but the housing, axle tubes, carrier, knuckles and brakes are stonger. Lockouts are another plus as are the steering options you can do.
Click to expand...

The keyword there is options. My 3/4 ton HP44 has .5" tubes, so does my dana 30 (sleeved in 3x.250" dom). My 30 has a truss, my 44 doesnt. They appear to have similar balljoints - not the same, but I wouldnt call the 44 much beefier. I run WJ knuckles, which is a good steering option. Not as high as the 44 can go, but its high enough for me. Dual piston calipers on my WJ knuckles with 11" rotors seems to stop better than most half ton 44's, although not better than the 3/4 ton 44 could with the right master/booster setup. Some patients and a 12 pack of good beer got me a warn 5x5.5 locking hub setup for my dana 30, although I already have 30 spline stubs and unit bearings - I'm only doing it for the bolt pattern change.

I've seen dana 30 arb's break, but I've seen dana 44 ones break too. I dont know that its enough of a factor to consider?

It comes down to the ring and pinion. I have a strong truss welded to the third member, and a good crmo diff cover. Am putting that ring gear deflection theory to the test, and its held up so far - we'll see what it takes to break it.

I'm not saying a 44 isnt better, I just dont think its better enough to discard the dana 30 as the best bang for the buck for 33 and 35 inch tires on a rig that is only going to run trails full body rigs can run.
 
cal said:
Am putting that ring gear deflection theory to the test, and its held up so far - we'll see what it takes to break it.

.
Click to expand...

I am also helping with the testing Cal...... i'll let ya know if mine goes bang :wierd:
 
mattyj said:
I am also helping with the testing Cal...... i'll let ya know if mine goes bang :wierd:
Click to expand...

We're still on for next thursday right?
 
Cal, what would you say the "weak point" (so to speak) is of your highly polished D30? The Warn hubs? Or the R&P? I was considering getting the Warn hub kit, but someone said it automatically becomes the weak point of your D30 - I figured it would be an upgrade - doesnt it come with 30 spline outers?
 
JNickel101 said:
Cal, what would you say the "weak point" (so to speak) is of your highly polished D30? The Warn hubs? Or the R&P? I was considering getting the Warn hub kit, but someone said it automatically becomes the weak point of your D30 - I figured it would be an upgrade - doesnt it come with 30 spline outers?
Click to expand...


There is a 5x4.5 kit that is 27 spline, and warn says not to run with bigger than 32's, and a 5x5.5 kit thats 30 spline for "larger tires". I dont think either would be the weak point.

On my setup, I'm 100% its my ring gear. I did manage to bend an inner C (didnt gusset those, will now..), but liberal application of heat and force has it somewhat true again.. and I'm positive a 44 would have bent just as easy.
 
cal said:
The keyword there is options. My 3/4 ton HP44 has .5" tubes, so does my dana 30 (sleeved in 3x.250" dom). My 30 has a truss, my 44 doesnt. They appear to have similar balljoints - not the same, but I wouldnt call the 44 much beefier. I run WJ knuckles, which is a good steering option. Not as high as the 44 can go, but its high enough for me. Dual piston calipers on my WJ knuckles with 11" rotors seems to stop better than most half ton 44's, although not better than the 3/4 ton 44 could with the right master/booster setup. Some patients and a 12 pack of good beer got me a warn 5x5.5 locking hub setup for my dana 30, although I already have 30 spline stubs and unit bearings - I'm only doing it for the bolt pattern change.

I've seen dana 30 arb's break, but I've seen dana 44 ones break too. I dont know that its enough of a factor to consider?

It comes down to the ring and pinion. I have a strong truss welded to the third member, and a good crmo diff cover. Am putting that ring gear deflection theory to the test, and its held up so far - we'll see what it takes to break it.

I'm not saying a 44 isnt better, I just dont think its better enough to discard the dana 30 as the best bang for the buck for 33 and 35 inch tires on a rig that is only going to run trails full body rigs can run.
Click to expand...


I just think the HP D44 is a better axle to build. If you already have good money in a HP D30 they hold up well.

If you haven't done anything to your HP D30 the HP 44 is a better starting point.

The stock shafts on the D44 are weaker because of the undercut. With a set of Superior axles, some good u-joints and it is stronger.

It also can have 35 spline D60 shafts, inner C's and the knuckle out parts installed to make it even stronger yet.
 
Good stuff on this thread. Been thinking of upgrading the shafts on my d30 for awhile...just running 33'x12.5's, and the polished d30 thing sounds like a very economical way for me to go. moderate wheelin' and DD at the mall!

i do like the warn hub conversion though, but I figure if I do that, I might as well go all in and build a "44"...decisions, decisions, decisions!!

What d30 upgrade shafts would be the most economical for me to go...not cheap, but....you know...cheap...ah, inexpensive.:spin1:

Thanks for the info!

Cipey
 
The Yukon alloys are pretty well thought of, and you can throw a couple Yukon super-joints in there as well. I paid somewhere around $500 for the whole set-up, inners/outers + joints.
 
I'm not a big fan of the Yukons myself. You can get alloy-usa's with a 10 year no questions asked warantee and spicer joints for that same $500..
 
Cipey said:
i do like the warn hub conversion though, but I figure if I do that, I might as well go all in and build a "44"...decisions, decisions, decisions!!
Click to expand...

As far as that goes yes, if I had to to pay the cash for a warn hub kit new, i'd probably have just gone 44.
 
cal said:
As far as that goes yes, if I had to to pay the cash for a warn hub kit new, i'd probably have just gone 44.
Click to expand...

For all the cash we dump in our heeps we mind as well have gone Dana 80s front and rear full hydro.

:laugh2:
 
lancey3 said:
For all the cash we dump in our heeps we mind as well have gone Dana 80s front and rear full hydro.

:laugh2:
Click to expand...

Ya got ta pay to play!! And if ya try to play without payin, well ya end up payin anyway!!:patriot:
 
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