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Pick The Two Gauges You Did / Would Add To Your XJ!

Choose Which Gauges You Did / Would Install: (multiple choice allowed)

  • Total voters
    133
Talyn said:
I also don't trust the scan gauge and the like because it is just telling you what the computer sees and as we know it can be flawed.
Click to expand...

From what I have read, the scan gauge is accurate when tested with mechanical gauges. And in some cases, different brand mechanical gauges have shown different readings.

I voted for oil temp, oil pressure, water temp and trans temp gauge.
 
Wow trans temp is #1, my AW4 has 208000 miles on it and is the only component I have not replaced or rebuilt. When I installed a Trans Temp gauge I got real worried about nothing.

I have a B&M HiTec cooler and the stock cooler in the radiator, it will hit 200*+ towing my 3500lb tent trailer uphill with no ill effect! So a stock XJ should never have a trans temp issue, it BS! All the gauge has done for me is caused me months of worry!

I am running a 4.5stroke, 4.56 gears, 35’s and ton of armor, it get hot when working hard and then cool bake down, no big deal, save you money for a wide band this is the only way you will know if the motor is running correctly!
 
Wideband, digital vac/boost, and digital dual intercooler temp gauge.

The digital dual intercooler temp gauge is usually used for pre- and post- intercooler but I use it pre- and post- supercharger. Knowing the true post- supercharger intake air temperature is absolutely necessary. Heat is your enemy in superchargers!
 
kcjeep6 said:
a stock XJ should never have a trans temp issue, it BS!
Click to expand...
just because you didn't have a problem with heat doesn't mean it's BS ;) All a gauge does is tell you when to take your foot off the floor, mine used to boil over after ripping around in the sand for more than half an hour. a big cooler helped keep the temps down and the gauge helped me to know when i was pushing it too hard.
 
Trans Temp for me!

IMG_1067.jpg
 
kcjeep6 said:
, save you money for a wide band
Click to expand...
Ahhh!! I forgot about my wideband. But for a modified engine (stroker, sc, turbo, doesn't really apply to usual bolt ons) a wideband is a must.
 
I don't have an XJ (MJ here) but two gauges I will be adding before I get my junk back on the road will be a Boost & EGT (exhaust gas temp)...it's turbo diesel thing. :cheers:
 
Trans temp is a no brainer.

Vacuum just so you can maximize your fuel economy. If you have ever driven with a vacuum gauge you know that it makes you a better driver.
 
lazyxj said:
Like many others, transmission temp and a ScanGauge.
I have have one ScanGauge and move it from the XJ to the motor home, as needed.
Click to expand...

Which is the one you have? I like the fact that they can be transplanted. I have a 97 Cat. Diesel pusher, a 02 Ford Diesel 7.3 van 4x4, 2 XJ's 95 & 99 and would like to keep the scan in the one I'm driving! Though my van has all the Autometer gauges I added like boost, tach, EGT, volt, trans temp, water temp, oil pressure, even a clock it's nice to see fuel economy as well. Unlike others the more knowledge and precise readings you can get the better. They call those lights warning lights IDIOT lights for a reason, by the time they come on it could be TOO late. I feel some of the factory gauges operate the same way, like the water temp gauge in XJ's being so unreliable! I'd like to have 3 of everything if it is going to keep my harmful temps down! I saw on some sites they can be had for around $150.00, if so I paid a lot more in gauges and feel this was a better way to go. Does it get plugged in directly to the OBD port or in line on the comp.??
 
Last edited:
Boss Cherokee said:
Which is the one you have? I like the fact that they can be transplanted. I have a 97 Cat. Diesel pusher, a 02 Ford Diesel 7.3 van 4x4, 2 XJ's 95 & 99 and would like to keep the scan in the one I'm driving! Though my van has all the Autometer gauges I added like boost, tach, EGT, volt, trans temp, water temp, oil pressure, even a clock it's nice to see fuel economy as well. Unlike others the more knowledge and precise readings you can get the better. They call those lights warning lights IDIOT lights for a reason, by the time they come on it could be TOO late. I feel some of the factory gauges operate the same way, like the water temp gauge in XJ's being so unreliable! I'd like to have 3 of everything if it is going to keep my harmful temps down! I saw on some sites they can be had for around $150.00, if so I paid a lot more in gauges and feel this was a better way to go. Does it get plugged in directly to the OBD port or in line on the comp.??
Click to expand...

i looked into scanguages website. it looks like we need one for obd2 & a different one for the cat diesels. i have a 2001 freightliner fl112 toterhome with a cat c-12 & would love to have a scanguage D for it. i'll be ordering the pair of them this week. :D
 
I currently only have oil pressure and a water temp gauges in my MJ (bare minimum IMO).

I'll be adding oil temp (mostly for any racing I do), voltmeter, and a tach.

No need to monitor my trans temp :)
 
I have a trans temp gauge. for watching trans temp while offroad and pulling canyons.

I also have a wideband, for watching my air fuel ratio in live feed just to watch for issues with my stroker running lean/pig rich.

My XJ has most of the other options I would want, all though oil temp sounds like it would be a good one to add... more for my anal mind then anything lol
 
knucklehead 61 said:
i looked into scanguages website. it looks like we need one for obd2 & a different one for the cat diesels. i have a 2001 freightliner fl112 toterhome with a cat c-12 & would love to have a scanguage D for it. i'll be ordering the pair of them this week. :D
Click to expand...

I will have to ck it out. The Cat is a 7.3 inline 6 ill have to see if it has a OBD II port.
 
Oil Pressure and water temp since the stock gauges seem a little random sometimes.

I have a wideband setup for my barracuda. I welded a bung into the exhaust on my jeep and gave it a try to see how the stroker was on the AF ratio. I thought I would uncover something, rich lean, no telling. Turns out the thing was damn near dead on. High 14s low 15s at idle and cruise mid 12s wide open, trending a little richer as it gets close to the shift point. I can probably cure that with a better air filter setup(stock). But it was a free flow air filter setup that forced me to build a motor for it years ago lol(hyrdolock).
 
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