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phew....almost got the turdy trussed

You can usually tell the difference if you put a grinder on it. Cast steel will spark like crazy, like any steel would. Cast iron's sparks will look different.

-Dan
 
John, are the center section and the c's cast steel then? Ok to weld to?

The center is cast, I did not do any welding to it as all I have is mig, but I did a test bead on the axle tube/center section and....it cracked immediately at the weld/cast interface, . I do have close enough tolerances so I can drag it to my neighbors shop and he can heliarc it all around the center, from what I understand you have to pre-heat, use high nickel rod and post heat so that it cools slowly, otherwise it will not be sound, I don't have the tig machine yet so haven't had a chance to fiddle with it. The d30 that leduc built is completely heliarced throughout, it is sweet! Been home super sick the last few days, the wife and both grommets have it so haven't gotten any progress.

The inner c's are forged steel so just pre-heat for penetration and mig away.
Good luck
 
Its actually welds real easy with an Arc welder, If I remember right, you arc weld it using DC setting, and the welds look really cool and have a trippy color, purple and blue with the high nickel rod.
 
Mr. Overkill can do those welds all day long. He welded my steel truss to my cast iron diff and I beat the crap out of my Jeep in JV over new years and it held up great. If your looking for someone who has those skills he's da man.

As I understand it, it's a matter of slowly putting the heat in and letting it slowly dissipate but I'm not entirely sure which is why I paid Troy to do it and blissfully forgot about it the next day...

Oh yeah and something about NIROD, which was 5 dollars a stick :)
 
Mr. Overkill can do those welds all day long. He welded my steel truss to my cast iron diff and I beat the crap out of my Jeep in JV over new years and it held up great. If your looking for someone who has those skills he's da man.

As I understand it, it's a matter of slowly putting the heat in and letting it slowly dissipate but I'm not entirely sure which is why I paid Troy to do it and blissfully forgot about it the next day...

Oh yeah and something about NIROD, which was 5 dollars a stick :)
Yeah, my twin brother and Troy have worked together for years. Some of the best welders in the shipyards those two.
 
So how are you guys keeping the axles from warping when you truss them?

Just alternate your welding, couple inches here, couple inches there, let it cool ect.ect.
It's really only important on a thin housing like a D30. I just burned away on our 44 with thick tubes and it didnt move.

As far as welding to the cast on the "pumpkin" goes, I've been doing it with a mig for years with good results. Clean it well, pre-heat it (not red hot) and burn away.
Small brackets will probably not hold up but with alot surface like a truss has it works fine.
 
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