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Overheating only on a load, heavy mods

While I might be way wrong, if everything was high flow and low restriction, couldn't that cause lower block pressure and make it easier for the coolant to boil against the block? The t stat is a basically a metered restriction no matter what you say, so if a high flow one is installed, couldn't this cause higher temps?
 
While I might be way wrong, if everything was high flow and low restriction, couldn't that cause lower block pressure and make it easier for the coolant to boil against the block? The t stat is a basically a metered restriction no matter what you say, so if a high flow one is installed, couldn't this cause higher temps?

Yep, Cavitation is actually boiling too just off the impeller because the low pressure behind the blade.
 
No. It's operating at the same pressure, it's just theoretically moving faster.

Personally I feel that high flow water pumps in a 4.0 are ineffective and I doubt how much faster the coolant actually flows. Note that I am not saying they're snake oil in all engines or applications.
 
TRCM, your huge missed point in your assertion that "it flows faster and doesn't have as much time to cool off in the radiator" is that it also flows faster in the engine and doesn't have as much time (per coolant "lap") to pick up heat there. It just does more laps in the same time to make up for that, because that's how physics works. Sorry.

Don't apologize, I know exactly what you are saying....the problem is, in the case of the OP, the heat transfer into the coolant in the block is greater, and since you brought up physics, there are many more low flow areas & eddies in the block that let the coolant stay in the 'heat absorption zone ' longer, than there are in the radiator, where the heat is given up.

The net result is, per 'lap' the coolant may absorb 15 deg of latent heat in the block, but only give up 10 deg in the radiator....which gives a net gain of heat....which is bad.


Some engines have external thermostat housings with a bypass hose back to the WP from the hot side of the stat so that there is still coolant flow over it when it is closed to keep the thermostat at the same temp as the water jackets so it can do its job. Good examples include the BMW M10 and the GM 2.2L OHV in the Cavalier. If the system is set up this way, removing the stat can in certain cases result in increased flow through the bypass and less through the radiator, resulting in overheating. However this does NOT apply to the 4.0 and a 4.0 will not overheat if you remove the stat, sorry.

Stop apologizing...I never said removing the t-stat in a 4.0 would cause it to overheat... I was and still am talking in general about a closed loop cooling system (or as closed loop as a cooling system is in your average car/truck), not being specific about any particular engine.

A friend of mine tho would likely tell you you are wrong, as when he did remove the t-stat, he had overheating problems. All he did was put it back in, and they went away. His is a 2000 model 4.0.


External thermostats with bypass hoses and coolant cavitation caused by extremely high flow can cause overheating. Mere high flow from a removed thermostat will not unless it results in cavitation.

Hmmm...there goes that condition again that makes it do something else beside what you are trying to convince us it does.

Like I said, I will be testing this soon. Feel free to argue all you want, I've said my piece, I agree with AIBandit, and will be happy to eat my words if my test proves me wrong.

I already gave my experience on this....but no one wants to believe me...so do as you wish. I KNOW what happened when I did it. Not arguing, just relaying information...take it or leave it. I use to say the same thing you are, till I tried it and had to eat my words.

Edit: also, your example of walking vs running is spurious for two reasons. It is an open system not a closed one (you are passing through air you will never see again, thus its exit temperature is irrelevant) and you expend energy increasing the flowrate. Both affect the results.

When you walk or run thru the room, you are indeed going past/thru air you will never see again. The air forced thru the radiator to cool the coolant off is also air you will never see again. So what's the difference ??

Remember, YOU are the coolant, the air in the room represents the air that is forced thru the radiator by the fan or vehicle motion, and the room represents the radiator, not the other way around.

And true, you do expend energy increasing the flowrate...but NOT in the radiator where the heat transfer is occurring that is causing the overheating....so for any real purpose, the flowrate is constant and energy is not being added.



I'm done....yall do what ya want....I tried to tell you what happened when I & others I know did this 'experiment' of trying to improve our cooling systems using a higher flow pump, or using no t-stat, or whatever device was the new gimmick. In all cases, we ended up using the stock components with a bigger radiator to make things better.

You don't want to believe me....I get that, so I'm gonna quit worrying about it.



:worship::eek:
 
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Well to be fair you'd have to run into the room back and forth an infinite number of times while an infinite number of monkeys on an infinite number of computers make cat memes.
 
Jesus, I think I'd have more luck explaining the airplane on a conveyor belt problem.

the damn conveyor belt collapses because they aren't intended for carrying airplanes
 
Jesus, I think I'd have more luck explaining the airplane on a conveyor belt problem.

the damn conveyor belt collapses because they aren't intended for carrying airplanes

You gotta pick up your airplane at baggage claim?

51c9eb3ec856114e5000000c_736.jpg
 
Good luck getting all of those electronics past the TSA.
 
If you make a restrictor be carefull about the nylon you use.
I used cutting board nylon then had a massive heat spike ( switched Taurus fan to high at the bottom of a long steep climb on a hot summer day, relay was bad, fan never came on)
It got up to 123*c and the nylon melted and got caught in the coolent filter trap, otherwise it would have stopped in the radiator.
I welded 2 steel washes together to make the new restrictor-13mm hole.
It works, fans come on much less than they used to just driving around.
Whith the restrictor at idle coollent going into the radiator at 106*c comes out at 43*c.
With out it was comming out at 67*c.
This is with a hesco high vol pump. In a 4.6 stroker, no glycol in the coolent.
Honestly it's such a cheap simple mod it's easier to do it and see what happens rather than type about it.
Pls post back with numbers :)
 
What temp is your transmission running? Pulling a grade on a tired slipping tranny will generate excessive heat that runs right to your radiator. Give the AW4 a fluid change (not a flush) and new filter and see if that helps any. Ive never been a fan of.....fans(pun intended), but set up correctly they can work. The stock Mechanical fan and secondary E-fan work just fine. What type of shroud are you running on your fans?
 
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I'd just like to note that their first nonsense debunking is aimed squarely at the "it flows too fast through the radiator and has no time to cool" argument TRCM expressed so vehemently in this very thread :shhh:

I tend to base things off what I have seen and experienced in person & with my own 2 eyes....both on automotive vehicles and on some pretty big equipment that uses the same type of system to cool itself.

:shhh:
 
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I tend to base things off what I have seen and experienced in person & with my own 2 eyes....both on automotive vehicles and on some pretty big equipment that uses the same type of system to cool itself.

:shhh:

That stewart performance page seems to disagree with you too, I imagine they might know a thing or two, much like flowkooler.

But hey, you do you
 
That stewart performance page seems to disagree with you too, I imagine they might know a thing or two, much like flowkooler.

But hey, you do you

Like I said...been doing this for over 20 yrs in the navy, 10 yrs in the shipyard, and over 40 yrs on my own vehicles.

Got a little experience of my own, and go with what works, not what someone writes down.......funny how those who disagree are also selling stuff that makes them money.

I'm just over the insinuations and stuff cuz what I saw & did doesn't agree with what someone read.

But hey, you do you......& whatever works for you, and I'll keep doing the same on this end.


:peace: :wave1:
 
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