Over the knuckle steering

[CaliXJ]

Cool thanks guys! I have everything connected at the knuckle, but i am not OTK on the tie rod but my drag link is. The fine tuning of toe and centering the steering wheel is a easy that way. Even with custom sway bar mounts the drag link hits at full lock passanger. I would have to cut the sway bar mounts off to run OTK and still have full lock that side. Hmmmmmm... That might just be a good idea.

 

[jeepfreak1020]

I would stick with under the knuckle, and run the drag over the knuckle attaching everything at one, but then the problem is hitting the diff cover. You almost have to run a stock cover so you can clear it, and you still may not

 

[Frank Z]

Run a stock cover and a Diff Skid if clearance is an issue.

I vaguely recall someone selling some in the vendor forum....:dunno:

 

[jeepfreak1020]

I would still think you would hit even with a stock cover. Maybe not. I remember on my old axle with the 1 ton set up I almost hit, and dident have my full turning

 

[Frank Z]

Depends on the diameter of the tie-rod.

 

[jeepfreak1020]

I was thinking 1.5" DOM with .250 wall

 

[CaliXJ]

Yeah i had to mod my warren diff skid and adjust the steering stops on knuckels so the 1.25" DOM didn't touch the stock cover at full lock. I really think if i would have used 1.5" DOM i would have really lost some turning rad.

 

[1990JEEPXJ]

im using 1.5" DOM and it BARELY touches the cover at full lock. so i just left it.

and with the way in the pictures you dont lose any fine adjustablity of the toe. you just have to take the heim off at the knuckle and turn the heim. either way you have to unbolt something. so why not that one? i still think that set up is very effective and simple

 

[jeepfreak1020]

im using 1.5" DOM and it BARELY touches the cover at full lock. so i just left it.

and with the way in the pictures you dont lose any fine adjustablity of the toe. you just have to take the heim off at the knuckle and turn the heim. either way you have to unbolt something. so why not that one? i still think that set up is very effective and simple

Thats why I was thinking. Just pull the bolt, and turn the heim a little, no biggie. I think that steering would be great. Bolt the tie rod straight down onto the knuckles with no spacers, so theres no roll.

Would you guys use spacers on the drag? Prob on the pitman arm atleast.

 

[1990JEEPXJ]

you need to use safety washers with heims, so they will be spaced up some. they will allow a little but of roll and make it easier to the heim to rotate when turning.

i would only use a misalignment spacer at the pitman arm with that setup. safety washers everywhere else.

 

[sunburned]

you need to use safety washers with heims, so they will be spaced up some. they will allow a little but of roll and make it easier to the heim to rotate when turning.

i would only use a misalignment spacer at the pitman arm with that setup. safety washers everywhere else.

Don't need safety washers if you have the heim in double shear. Where it's connected to the tie-rod, those tabs don't need safety washers. Also if you weld some tabs onto the knuckles for double shear, no washers there either.

 

[1990JEEPXJ]

why in single but not double?

i would think that if the body of the heim is squeezed when inside a bracket that it would not rotate very well.

would using only the step down spacers be enough you think?

 

[rockclimber]

Safety washers keep the Heim body from coming off the bolt if the ball fails. I think they should be used on the tie rod, you need to allow for some misalignment at the knuckles. Even in double shear.

Also, be wary of running a Heim at the pitman arm, if you droop enough you can break it, or the bolt. A high angle TRE is a better idea. Gm part number 2027 I believe.

And fwiw having the drag link connect to the tie rod is called inverted T. Crossover is when they both connect to the passenger side knuckle.

 

[ct67_72]

I'm going to add. I have been looking to do the same. But I'm going to make the tie rod shirt on the drivers side, put a left hand stud sticking out of it, then put another short langth of dom, then the rh bein in the end if that.
It will make an adjuster, so you don't have to.remove the drag link, and you can fine tune toe better.

 

[Frank Z]

I'm going to add. I have been looking to do the same. But I'm going to make the tie rod shirt on the drivers side, put a left hand stud sticking out of it, then put another short langth of dom, then the rh bein in the end if that.
It will make an adjuster, so you don't have to.remove the drag link, and you can fine tune toe better.

Why no just use left and right hand threaded joints?