ORO XJ SwayLock First look

[Lowrange2]

I think it needs a more positive lock in the engaged position.

I agree.

Plus, it's more than the Anti-Rock. I need something like this tho.

 

[Mighty.Mighty_XJ]

2 questions:

1) Except for the slick "flip-a-lever" feature, what's the main advantage of this over regular sway bar discos? The answer might be obvious but I can't figure it out.

2) How come the undercarriage of that XJ (if indeed it is an XJ) is so doggone cleeean?

 

[Jerry_h]

I think it needs a more positive lock in the engaged position.

In the very first picture it looks like it is not fully engaged and it isn't, there is a lot more depth to the notch that the block fits into. The reason is that the XJ is on a lift and the suspension is at full droop, binding the connection. They had to drop it on the ground to hook up the links with it engaged. In a neutral position or on level ground the mechanism gives you a nice clunck when engaging or disengaging. If you switch it and you are not on level ground it will move as soon as the suspension moves past that neutral point, you will hear it. I don't worry about being on level ground when connecting/disconnecting mine, cause I know that as soon as the suspension cycles through that neutral position it will egage. You don't have to find level ground or try and wrestle the links into position for it to work.

 

[Jerry_h]

2 questions:

1) Except for the slick "flip-a-lever" feature, what's the main advantage of this over regular sway bar discos? The answer might be obvious but I can't figure it out.

2) How come the undercarriage of that XJ (if indeed it is an XJ) is so doggone cleeean?

What are the things we don't like about regular disco's? Getting the holes to line up so you can put the pins in, how often do you get to park on clean dry level ground to do that to mud caked disco's. Having to tie up and untie the loose link. And any other problem you have had with disco's.

That is not my XJ . I'll post a pic of my XJ, you won't be disappointed.

 

[daveshan]

2 questions:

1) Except for the slick "flip-a-lever" feature, what's the main advantage of this over regular sway bar discos? The answer might be obvious but I can't figure it out.

I've had an SwayLoc on my TJ for 3 years now, I'll never go back to disconnects. The small inner bar keeps it way more stable on off camber situations and no finding a flat spot to reconnect. For a trail only rig which the TJ has pretty well developed into I'd stick with the Currie unit but for a DD in situations where you're driving a freeway (none within 200 miles of me :clap the dual rate is great.

I was resigned to using the JKS disco's I took off of the TJ on my XJ build but depending on what this goes for it may be on a Christmas/birthday list.

 

[J99PXJ]

The XJ in the pics is actually my XJ. I am new to this forum, just being a member for 2 days now. I will be finishing my profile and updating with whats dont on the XJ soon...

 

[kastein]

How do you plan to keep that mechanism from gumming up in the rust belt?

I ask because I've been considering building something like this or buying something like this for a while, but saw a YJ/TJ owner at NEA4WD Fall Crawl that had so much trouble with corrosion and jamming that he ended up bolting and unbolting the latch bar to lock/unlock the swaybar. He'd only had it for one season.

I could not think of a good way around this problem without fairly costly seals and boots, so I dropped the idea and purchased materials to construct more conventional disconnects, which I haven't built yet.

 

[kcjeep6]

I asked about one of these last year and was told they did not have anything for a XJ. Just my luck as soon as I buy an Antirock ORO comes up with one.
I my opinion anything that ORO builds is worth every penny they charge!

 

[Mighty.Mighty_XJ]

Ken, do you think aluminum would work for these? Eliminates the rust problem, but I dunno if it'll hold up. Thoughts?

Or maybe you have to maintain them fanatically to keep things working smoothly.

 

[Mighty.Mighty_XJ]

What are the things we don't like about regular disco's? Getting the holes to line up so you can put the pins in, how often do you get to park on clean dry level ground to do that to mud caked disco's. Having to tie up and untie the loose link. And any other problem you have had with disco's.

That is not my XJ . I'll post a pic of my XJ, you won't be disappointed.

umm ... I didn't see one for the XJ, but for 5 bills, I'd just as soon keep playing with my JKS discos. That thing is pricey indeed.

 

[kcjeep6]

Ken, do you think aluminum would work for these? Eliminates the rust problem, but I dunno if it'll hold up. Thoughts?

Or maybe you have to maintain them fanatically to keep things working smoothly.

I see no issues with using aluminum; you may want to have it hard anodized.

 

[Jerry_h]

I just had mine off last week for some rust removal and paint. The locking mechanism was and still works fine after almost three years in Minnesota.

There should still be some mud in that picture somewhere.

http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j463/JerryRH/MY%20XJ/DSCF0961.jpg

 

[kastein]

Ken, do you think aluminum would work for these? Eliminates the rust problem, but I dunno if it'll hold up. Thoughts?

Or maybe you have to maintain them fanatically to keep things working smoothly.

Dunno, probably depends on the alloy and coatings/anodizing. My aluminum throttle body corroded FAST when I gave it the chance. I'm not really a materials expert so I'll leave that for someone else to figure out... but I would probably use 316SS where required since a friend of mine could probably get me enough scrap to build something like that.

I'll probably stick with discos, I have a sneaking suspicion that anything I build like this will still limit suspension travel and I sure as hell don't have 500 bucks to drop on one.

 

[Xjunderdog]

How do you plan to keep that mechanism from gumming up in the rust belt?

I ask because I've been considering building something like this or buying something like this for a while, but saw a YJ/TJ owner at NEA4WD Fall Crawl that had so much trouble with corrosion and jamming that he ended up bolting and unbolting the latch bar to lock/unlock the swaybar. He'd only had it for one season.

I can answer a couple of the questions you ask having owned several of these over the years. The first design offered was a painted steel set up with a completely different sliding mechanism than what is offered now. I had one of the originals on my YJ in 2005. And my wife still has an early version on her LA ZJ. The actual arms are now e-coated and the sliding mechanism as well as the plate is hard anodized aluminum. The combination of the two makes for a tighter latch and smoother slide. If you would like I can take a photo of the older vs newer to show the improvements over the years.