cruiser54
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, Az
Napa lists the grommet with 2 different sizes. Is the tip of the hose that goes into the grommet white with a shulder that keeps it from going too far into the grommet?
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Odd question
- Thread starter rpholz
- Start date
rpholz
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Jacksonville, FL
negative
cruiser54
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, Az
Get a new hose/pipe AND a grommet.
rpholz
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Jacksonville, FL
oh boy, more parts lol.
I'd imagine the proper pipe is a junkyard part?
I try to avoid hitting the local yard as they are an insane rip off.
I'd imagine the proper pipe is a junkyard part?
I try to avoid hitting the local yard as they are an insane rip off.
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
I found tubing and a grommet in the dorman help section of the stores, and rigged up my own (cheap). The trick is to have a 2.2 mm orifice restriction or full length tube in the line. I customized mine. I used larger vacuum hose and an adapter nipple that I could adjust the hole size in to about 2.2 mm to fine tune the flow rate.
If the grommet is like mine were, you need to pull the valve cover and do some serious cleaning, or risk the grommet bottom ending up in the valve train and engine, in pieces!!!
If the grommet is like mine were, you need to pull the valve cover and do some serious cleaning, or risk the grommet bottom ending up in the valve train and engine, in pieces!!!
cruiser54
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, Az
Napa.
rpholz
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Jacksonville, FL
well didnt get a chance to mess with it yesterday but did replace the oil pressure sending unit so i know i have good oil pressure at whatever rpm it decides to idle at.
rpholz
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Jacksonville, FL
Cleaned off the idle control motor section of the throttle body and reset tps for .803 volts, drivability is perfect but still idles just above the first mark. guage indicates oil pressure is good tho. what do you guys think, let it roll?
cruiser54
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, Az
Whaddya mean the first mark?
rpholz
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Jacksonville, FL
on the tach, 0, space, dash, then I believe to more marks to 1k rpms
cruiser54
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, Az
Why .803? What was your reference voltage?
rpholz
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Jacksonville, FL
uhhhh, 4.86??
I know at 17% it was suppose to be .826 output voltage but it just didn't run quite right.
My only guess is the throttle plate should be a TAD more open to allow more air, their are no vacumm leaks that i'm aware of and I've gone over everything over and over. which actually led me to fix the part time light issue, vacumm leak at front axle.
I know at 17% it was suppose to be .826 output voltage but it just didn't run quite right.
My only guess is the throttle plate should be a TAD more open to allow more air, their are no vacumm leaks that i'm aware of and I've gone over everything over and over. which actually led me to fix the part time light issue, vacumm leak at front axle.
cruiser54
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Prescott, Az
TB butterfly should be absolutely closed.
rpholz
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Jacksonville, FL
do you think since i currently have a hair thickness of a gap that could be the problem? I just am kinda at a loss here, i've tried every combination to no success, what should the idle be at anyway?
sorry if I'm going in circles or asking too many questions.
sorry if I'm going in circles or asking too many questions.
- Location
- MilkyWay Galaxy
.803 is fine. The 87 FSM said .80 was the spec
If it is between 600 and 800 rpm in park and at idle, and between 550 and 800 in Drive at idle, cold and hot, I would leave it where it is now and drive it some, and see what issues if any remain after a few days. Record the cold and hot idles, with AC on and Off, in park and drive and then report back the data and issues.
If the idle runs high again, test the sensors (CTS, MAP, TPS, MAT/IAT) and ground while it is running at high idle!!!
From park to drive, idle should drop a little, maybe 50 to 100 rpm. Turn the AC on and the idle should go up about 50-100 rpm. Idle should drop a little as the engine goes from cold start to full operating temp.
If it is between 600 and 800 rpm in park and at idle, and between 550 and 800 in Drive at idle, cold and hot, I would leave it where it is now and drive it some, and see what issues if any remain after a few days. Record the cold and hot idles, with AC on and Off, in park and drive and then report back the data and issues.
If the idle runs high again, test the sensors (CTS, MAP, TPS, MAT/IAT) and ground while it is running at high idle!!!
From park to drive, idle should drop a little, maybe 50 to 100 rpm. Turn the AC on and the idle should go up about 50-100 rpm. Idle should drop a little as the engine goes from cold start to full operating temp.