SYE pricing:
$80 yoke (3103-27CV)
$40 driveshaft (can pick up for cheaper in some junkyards)
$xxxx angle shims
$20 1/2-13NC grade8 bolt (length: about 1-1.5" depending on how deep you drill the hole in the shaft), 1/2 grade8 washer, 1/2-13NC tap, 27/64 cobalt drill, 13/32 cobalt drill, 1/8 cobalt drill, a few cutoff wheels for the angle grinder
Use the 1/8 drill to center punch the driveshaft end to make it easier to center, then 13/32 drill to depth, then the 27/64 - this results in a much smoother bore that is much closer to tolerance for the tap. See
http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSYEconversion.htm for the rest of the instructions...
Also, do yourself a favor and buy new bolts so you don't have to worry as much about bunging up the threads or cutting them:
Rear axle:
4x U-bolts + nuts - check quadratec, make sure you get the ones for the right axle
4x OEM part number 3420 2118 (M14-2.0x120mm grade 10.9 or 9.8)
4x OEM part number 1150 2814 (M14-2.0 grade 10.9 or 9.8 nut, you actually only need two unless your weldnuts break loose... better to play it safe)
Front axle:
If the new track bar and LCAs/UCAs don't come with them, get new bolts for these. I (or anyone else with a parts catalog) can get the part numbers for this too but it's a lot more confusing, and your new track bar + LCAs/UCAs probably should come with them... I would hope.
Also, make sure you get longer brake lines! at 5" this is going to be absolutely required unless you want to rip a brake line every time you go over a pothole.
EDIT: if you have a 96 or later, you are almost certainly going to need an SYE. I need one at 2"-2.5" lift (currently vibes like crazy, waiting to get more parts in the mail) and even the factory UpCountry 1" lift package required a TSB that amounted to a transfer case drop on some XJs. At 3-5" it's a foregone conclusion, plan on doing it.