Need R&P suggestions for the 8.25

[srmitchell]

Hey dudes-
My 8.25 rear axle grenaded, the Ring and Pinion was already noisy because of a crappy install from the shop who regeared it. (Bought the axle used.) I think they are USA standard gears, and I was told "They aren't warrantied for noise." Whatever.

Anyway, one of the bearings took a dump and my jeep is stuck at work now, with a mixture of some magical burnt JB weld looking gear oil paste pouring out of the pinion bearing cavity. Oooopps.

I don't know what do now, I have the money, and I can do the install at work for free with help. I was going to go Yukon, but according to rwkhaus and Randy's ring and pinion, Yukon is apparently out of stock of the 4.56 gears.

My questions- (The axle is a 29 Spline 8.25, in the 4.56 ratio.)

What brand should I purchase for the best durability, strength, and quiet running? Should I wait for the Yukons if they are that good?
Where should I buy them? I need a master install kit also. (Online)

I want to order them ASAP.

Thank you!

Sean

 

[knucklehead 61]

national drivetrain
motive gear $195

http://www.nationaldrivetrain.com/partinfo.php?partid=MOT:C8.25-456&choice=

 

[Alex E]

I get all my stuff from Randy ring and pinion. I've used about 10 sets of USA Standard gears over the years and have had good luck with all of them. When ever I order from them they always say we can't guarantee these won't make noise, even when I buy the Yukon gear sets. Honestly it's all about the install. Pay for good bearings and have it done right. IMHO yes some gears are nicer or better then others but honestly you can't really make that crappy of a gear set. They have to work decent enough to where they don't wear out immediately and the only way you can do that is use proper steel and hardening. Yeah some gear sets are really premium and top notch but I don't see the need unless your pushing some serious horse power or really big tires. With the install it can't be "close enough", it has to be exact. I'll redo the pinion depth 30 or 40 times to get the pattern exact, especially on the rear diff. The other crucial one is making sure the backlash and preload is proper. I always use a case spreader and dual indicator to check how much the case spreads, when needed. I usually error on the side of everything being in the 10-35 percentish side of the tighter end of the spec. I figure with low gearing and big tires things will loosen up or wear in more. The pinion wants to rotate and torque front to back so remember get high quality bearings, I only use Timken when I can. Just have a legit shop do it or really spend your time if you do it. That book that comes with the gear set has good info on adjustments and patterns. You just need a lot of patience and triple check everything, if your skeptical about anything just look it over, nothing is good enough but perfection.

 

[srmitchell]

I am totally naive when it comes to quality... Are motive gears decent? I have read all over that many companies re-brand gears from other companies...

I know it is all about install, and I am sure these were not installed well. I will probably do the Yukon install kit no matter what.

 

[Alex E]

I think the Yukon install kit is Timkens. I've gotten plenty of those kits and they are great. Check summit racing for stuff, they have a ton of Jeep stuff you wouldn't expect.

 

[Alex E]

If you do the install take a cap from a brake part cleaner or something and put a few drops of oil in it, about the size of a dime, then mix the tube of yellow paint. Goes on nicer and makes a much cleaner pattern. Also check the pattern in 2 or 3 spots, that way you know if the ring gear is mounted consistently.

 

[srmitchell]

I keep reading reviews and I never see anything bad about yukon, I want to do this ONCE.

Thanks for the advice Alex. I have all the tools at work, how long do you think it will take to do this? And I'm getting help from my supervisor.

 

[Alex E]

Honestly if your lucky 3 or 4 hours minimum. I'll tell you what I do...

Day one or the night before, I tear down the axle, take rags and shove them through the tubes with a pry bar to clean them, then I start the center section, keep track of all the shims because you don't want to start from scratch. Be sure to thoroughly clean under the pinion gear where that oil galley is. Fish around with a magnet if something grenaded and clean well. Be sure to mark which bearing caps go where if they aren't marked already fyi.

I also grind out the old pinion bearing that pressed on (the fat bearing closest to the ring gear), if the bearing isn't wasted I use it for set up then press on the new bearing for my final assembly. I do the set up with all new races and other bearings though. Also, if it's a crush sleeve I try to use the old one until your ready to do final assembly. Also don't install the pinion seal until you know everything is money.

After its all cleaned then I usually spend the entire second day setting up the pattern, new seals, clean abd adjust brakes, backing plates and lube where the shoes rub the backing plate.

 

[CAJJ93XJ]

honestly I'm convinced that pretty much all gears on the market are made the same way with the same materials. if you're gonna pay big bucks, make sure it's the company with the very best warranty!

so my .02 is spend as little as possible, and support local!
http://www.sierragear.com/?s=SG
http://www.differentials.com/

 

[blondejoncherokee]

why are you set on keeping the 8.25 exactly?

 

[CAJJ93XJ]

why are you set on keeping the 8.25 exactly?

yeah seriously. 14 bolts are all the rage lately




:roll:

also, for the gear noise issue, just run 85 140 gear oil to shut them hoes up. although, I could never hear mine over the exhaust anyway

 

[srmitchell]

why are you set on keeping the 8.25 exactly?

Because it already has an aftermarket cover, ZJ disk brakes, and my pinion angle is perfect. I don't need anything stronger. I might put alloys in it sometime soon, but otherwise... why re-invent the wheel? I don't have the time to build a new axle anyway.