My new Heep. if its current, I need help!

[TLowery04]

i dont have a pressure testor, and we plan on testing the injectors today... id hate to have to buy a new set of those, they're expensive.

just in case does anyone know a good cleaning method for injectors? besides spraying them down with carb cleaner?

and what should the connections on the injectors read on a volt meter?

-Trent

 

[cracked-butt]

i know they are pricey ($50 per) i got 2 of them sittin here. you check the cps or tps yet? could be your problem there? what about the computer itself?



oh ok i see now, lol (no jack/stands) well im 6' & wear size 28 pants.

 

[TLowery04]

well, we have the rail and injectors pulled, gonna clean the fudge outta those, and see if it might be jammed injecors. Can't seem o get he darn things off the rail though, and i dont want to yank at em too hard and break 'em.


gonna go eat lunch at the doobie center on south campus here at NAU then back to work.


have a good one yall, and let me know if theres anything else needs to be addressed. We're open to ideas casue at the moment we're hasta



-Trent

 

[TLowery04]

ok,

as of today.

the jeep will start on starter fluid, will stay running with gas applied.

wont idle.

wont start on its own power.

- we took apart and cleaned the fuel rail and all the injectors,
- tested injectors and they work great, fire intermitantly.
- it has new wires and plugs so it gets spark.
- the battery is good, its from my daily.
- and the fuel pump seems to work well, and goes through its cycles.

- Trent

 

[Shorty]

I'd pull the IAC and clean the snot outta it. Then I'd look for big vacuum leak (stuck EGR, disconnected intake hoses, unhooked/bad brake booster) or disconnected MAP sensor-- both will cause tough/ no start condition and inability to idle without extra TPS input.

 

[TLowery04]

it looks like the egr has been bypassed and the catalytic converter has been removed.

the map had broken vac lines but have been re-connected.

as far as massive vac leak, does anyone have a diagram with essetial vaccum lines? these are pretty dried out and cracked but i am hesitant to spend another 65$ on a truck i am probably goig to re-sell at this point. and find somethig else to send my buddy david. this ones lookig to be more problems than i had considered getting into.

 

[JNickel101]

did you suck all the old gas out of the tank before you put the 5 gal of 91 octane and the other junk in it?

 

[TLowery04]

tank only had about 1-1 an 1/2 gallos in it of bad stuff, and we burned and bled most of it off.

gas coming from the rail is healthy color and smells rich.
not old and nausiating like the bad gas.

-Trent

 

[TLowery04]

well, i woke up at about 1:40 - my buddy craig is gonna work on the truck today,

hes going to check a couple sensors and the temp sensor for the coolant,

i guess he has taken to reading the entire chiltons manual, and after two days is on chapter 5.

is there anything i should make sure we check today?

 

[TLowery04]

might be replacign the cps and tps, maybe the map.

 

[89xj]

bad ballast resisior if its starts and dies after 3-5 seconds.

ballast is on drivers side fender wall. its a white ceramic piece with 2 orange wires going to it. pull the 2 wires off and hold them together.

did you look into the ballast resistor

 

[90Blue_XJ]

First change the ballast resistor (very cheap to purchase) then check the vacuum lines for vacuum. Changing the CPS was already suggested but it is probably OK if it starts and runs for a little while. Do you have vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator? My vote is on the TPS or IAC (both on the TB)since it will run but not idle. The fuel is not getting to the injectors and there is pressure so either the ECU is not telling the injectors to open or the fuel pressure regulator is shutting down when the engine vacuum is applied(engine running). Just MHO.

 

[Shorty]

if there were no vacuum to the regulator, I'd expect it to still run (higher pressure when lower vacuum) but it would run as though it were rich (sluggish). The vacuum leak would be a cause for concern though, but with the higher pressure it prolly wouldn't cause it not to run.

 

[TLowery04]

did you look into the ballast resistor?

the ballast resistor has been removed and i cannot locate the orange wires.

First change the ballast resistor (very cheap to purchase) then check the vacuum lines for vacuum. Changing the CPS was already suggested but it is probably OK if it starts and runs for a little while. Do you have vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator? My vote is on the TPS or IAC (both on the TB)since it will run but not idle. The fuel is not getting to the injectors and there is pressure so either the ECU is not telling the injectors to open or the fuel pressure regulator is shutting down when the engine vacuum is applied(engine running). Just MHO.

the tps has not been tested yet but the IAC looks brand new. no signs of wear at all.
vac to the FPR is functional, rail wont pressurize without it it seems.
The injectors fire, and work just fine. they were tested out of the block to make sure the ECU was telling them to fire, and there was actual electrical signal being sent.

if there were no vacuum to the regulator, I'd expect it to still run (higher pressure when lower vacuum) but it would run as though it were rich (sluggish). The vacuum leak would be a cause for concern though, but with the higher pressure it prolly wouldn't cause it not to run.

there are lots of broken and cracked vac lines, does anyone have a schematic of which ones are essential so i can go by some tubing and replace them?


-Trent

 

[TLowery04]

oh, and we will also be testing the sensors with an ohm meter to make sure the wiring is all good today. I hope. seems to be alot of things holding me up, might not get time to test everything i want to today.

 

[lawsoncl]

You try jumpering the ballast resistor yet? The round things missing from the fuse panels would be the flasher modules - you don't have a fuse stuck in one of the holes for the flashers do you? I'm trying to rember, but I think the buzzer module might plug in over on the side of the fuse box. Not a big deal if it's missing.

Another thing to check would be the ground strap between the back of the valve cover and the firewall. They tend to rot and lots of bizarre things start happening if that connection gets bad.

Can't say I have much sympathy for the cold weather. It's -7*F right now and I need to go out and fix my wifes truck. Something about the fine print on the windhield washer fluid bottle saying good to 30*F instead of -30*F.

 

[TLowery04]

You try jumpering the ballast resistor yet? The round things missing from the fuse panels would be the flasher modules - you don't have a fuse stuck in one of the holes for the flashers do you? I'm trying to rember, but I think the buzzer module might plug in over on the side of the fuse box. Not a big deal if it's missing.

Another thing to check would be the ground strap between the back of the valve cover and the firewall. They tend to rot and lots of bizarre things start happening if that connection gets bad.

Can't say I have much sympathy for the cold weather. It's -7*F right now and I need to go out and fix my wifes truck. Something about the fine print on the windhield washer fluid bottle saying good to 30*F instead of -30*F.

yikes! sounds a might cold where you are!

the groundings have all been cleaned with a wire brush and put back on, atlest the main ones i know about,

the orange wires to the balast resistor, well the balast resistor itself is just gone. the orange wires seem to lead down into the headlight bucket...

probably going to end up tracing wires, but i cant see where the range wires have been spliced... so i guess I'm tracing wires tomorrow.

oh and the distributer we found out is an aftermarket one, only uses three wires instead of 4. but that didnt stop the previous owner from butt splicing everything together...

oh and if you convert to an open cooling system... do you still need the overflow tank?

someone converted it but it looks liek a piss poor job. will hopefully get to take pictures tomorrow, so that you can ll see what i've been working with.

we tested the wiring and it seems to all get good signals to the sensors, cant seem to get the cmps to test at the moment, but we will save that for antoher day. may end up having to give away my 1980 pinto in trade for mechanics work, we shall see.

 

[89xj]

yikes! sounds a might cold where you are!

the groundings have all been cleaned with a wire brush and put back on, atlest the main ones i know about,

the orange wires to the balast resistor, well the balast resistor itself is just gone. the orange wires seem to lead down into the headlight bucket...

probably going to end up tracing wires, but i cant see where the range wires have been spliced... so i guess I'm tracing wires tomorrow.

oh and the distributer we found out is an aftermarket one, only uses three wires instead of 4. but that didnt stop the previous owner from butt splicing everything together...

oh and if you convert to an open cooling system... do you still need the overflow tank?

someone converted it but it looks liek a piss poor job. will hopefully get to take pictures tomorrow, so that you can ll see what i've been working with.

we tested the wiring and it seems to all get good signals to the sensors, cant seem to get the cmps to test at the moment, but we will save that for antoher day. may end up having to give away my 1980 pinto in trade for mechanics work, we shall see.

ive never heard of any after market distributors that work on the 4.o

the dizzy has a stator or cam position sensor/pickup that the computer uses to fire the injectors in sinc with the timing. i would try to find a junkyard distributor.

 

[TLowery04]

well. were pretty certain the distributor work, even though it may not be the right one... god knows how. or how well...

were gonna put a new fuel filter i nit today and start back from the basics and just go over everything again.

we pulled and tested the injectors again, I'm an idiot. The fuel coming out of them was a stream... not a mist... so am i right in that would be indicative of low fuel pressure?

-Trent

 

[lawsoncl]

My 88 FSM shows the Distributor "sync sensor" having three wires (black, blue, grey w/ tan stripe). You sure that 4th wire isn't supposed to go to the oil pressure sender (lightt blue)? I'd go out and look at my 89, but it's buried under the 2' of snow we got since yesterday. Actually, I still need to go get that 2' of snow off the driveway.:laugh3: