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MetalCloak 4.5" Coils + CAD

UCA axle end.

I sent this picture to JKS for his impressions. He stated that it looks normal and that the axle end of the control arm is OEM rubber bushings. I was curious why no bushing is visible on one side. I asked if they had replacement bushings for the other ends that have JKS bushings and he couldn't answer - says he'll find out - if I need them. It doesn't seem I will by visual on the rig. But this particular style JKS control arm is discontinued and in his words, "because they were noisy". Jaw drop! I've been chasing the clunk for years, fixed some of it with new drag link ends but it's still there. Note: in my search several folks from back around when I got my JKS, 2013-ish are loving the JKS.
I need to lose the clunk.


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What are y'all using for shock bushings when doing bar pin eliminators? Off the shelf rubber?
OME 60052
08SE11 3

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Installed coils. One was cocked but I assumed alignment would fix that. I neglected to point it out to the alignment shop and didn't notice til I got home that it's still incorrect. Was I wrong about alignment fixing this? Will get them on the phone when they open this morning. Other than that I'm not sure what I can do.

Spring on the top pic looks straighter than in the picture. One on the bottom is accurate.

It drove fine for the 15 miles home at 60mph (trailered it in). Sway bar won't clear spring to reattach.. another thing I didn't check til I got home.

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Not un-common at all. Make sure the coils are rotated correctly into their seats and after that the XJ uni-body is known to not be symmetrical !!!
 
Not un-common at all. Make sure the coils are rotated correctly into their seats and after that the XJ uni-body is known to not be symmetrical !!!

Really! So there's hope. Thought sure I'd made a mess of things. We double/triple checked that they're in the seats and against the stops, but I'll look again.
Gonna have to disassemble the swaybar disco and see if I can roll it toward the front when disconnected since it won't clear the spring on the passenger side if rolled rearward as before.
It seemed to drive fine on the highway w/o swaybar so will do it again with it connected, and take on a trail run and see where we're at. I hate the way the spring looks, tho'..lol. Maybe flexing it will auto-adjust.. hey, a guy can hope.

Thanks!
 
The left side looks great. I would rotate the coils on the right side of the vehicle by 180 deg so that they are in the same orientation as the coils on the left side.

But besides that, a lift causes the front axle to rotate forward, producing a tendency for the coils to bulge forward at ride height.
 
The left side looks great. I would rotate the coils on the right side of the vehicle by 180 deg so that they are in the same orientation as the coils on the left side.

But besides that, a lift causes the front axle to rotate forward, producing a tendency for the coils to bulge forward at ride height.
Rotating would take them out of the stops. ??

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I mean to spin the spring 180 degrees from its current orientation, or to put it in the same orientation as the springs on the left. My spring seats have nothing to prevent me from freely spinning the spring around in their seats.
 
I mean to spin the spring 180 degrees from its current orientation, or to put it in the same orientation as the springs on the left. My spring seats have nothing to prevent me from freely spinning the spring around in their seats.

I should restate that. There is a spring hold-down tab on the axle, but there is latitude in how that mates to the spring. That aside, I think its the upper spring on the right side that I would rotate on your setup.
 
I mean to spin the spring 180 degrees from its current orientation, or to put it in the same orientation as the springs on the left. My spring seats have nothing to prevent me from freely spinning the spring around in their seats.

The spring only goes in 1 way to seat properly in the bucket. The tail goes where my flap-wheel is.......
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Rotating would take them out of the stops. ??

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You could look at rotating the axle and increasing your wheelbase but, remember that rotating also impacts your caster and pinion angles. I would double check all your alignment numbers before I did anything. That would tell you if your axles are square to each other!
 
The spring only goes in 1 way to seat properly in the bucket. The tail goes where my flap-wheel is.......

ok. I missed that when looking over my suspension. So much for rotating the spring. Seems like there aren't many good options. How about trimming the upper rubber isolator to make it slightly wedge shaped? Or shimming the spring at the lower perch?
 
Dunno from shinola.

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He did say offset ball joints might help,, but expensive.
 
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You should be seeing something like this?
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Obviously you need more caster and that will help straighten the coils. Adding wheelbase will help to but we still do not know if the axle is square?
 
Dunno from shinola.

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...

He did say offset ball joints might help,, but expensive.

Spring bow aside, the caster is very low which means that steering wheel return to center feel may be light, and the tendency for death wobble will be higher. If you rotate the axle back to add some caster, it will also reduce the amount of spring bow, but it will increase pinion-to-drive shaft angle which can undesirable. It depends on the current pinion-to-drive shaft angle.

Also, it would have been nice if they had done a 4-wheel measurement so that you could see the thrust angle. Most shops don't perform a 4-wheel measurement on solid axle rear vehicles because its generally perceived that there is no means to adjust anything at the rear.
 
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