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Mercedes Diesel Conversion

BeastMode

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Denver
After a lot of extensive research on the the diesel conversion, I am very interested. I have found a 3.0 L OM617 I5 Diesel that has 289k miles on it. I would plan to rebuild the engine myself and get most of the parts from http://www.mercedesdiesel4x4.com and do the install myself. The only problem is that I am limited on space as I live in a condo. Also, my knowledge of diesel engines is limited. I have rebuilt several gas engines in the past, but I'm not sure about the conversion aspect of a diesel.

Is there anyone in the area that has done this conversion before or has any experience in diesel engines/conversions? Or does anyone know of any shops that would specialize in this?
 
If this is going to be a trail only rig, the conversion will not pose insurmountable issues. On the other hand, if it is going to be driven on the street, there may be issues with the State of Colorado...

Check the emission laws first.

Other Conversions:

http://www.mercedesdiesel4x4.com/

http://bruiserconversions.com/jeep-wrangler-diesel-conversion/

http://jdjeeps.com/

http://www.cotybuilt.com/#

Just a few examples of what is out there. For the most part though, the common engine is the 4bt.

Just my .02............
 
It sucks to be everyone else on a trail run when one of those 4bt diesels is in the mix. Stinky, NOISY, and NOISY.

Completely NOT worth the effort and expense in my opinion. You'd be better off ditching the bucket and putting a cage on a Kubota and take that 'wheeling.
 
It sucks to be everyone else on a trail run when one of those 4bt diesels is in the mix. Stinky, NOISY, and NOISY.

Completely NOT worth the effort and expense in my opinion. You'd be better off ditching the bucket and putting a cage on a Kubota and take that 'wheeling.

:roflmao:
 
If this is going to be a trail only rig, the conversion will not pose insurmountable issues. On the other hand, if it is going to be driven on the street, there may be issues with the State of Colorado...

Check the emission laws first.

Yep, checked with the state and emissions is a no go. I can change the vehicle engine type to diesel, but in order to pass inspection, the computer type needs to be of the corresponding year. Being as how I have a 98, it needs to be OBDII and since the engine is mechanical, this is not possible.

So, my options would be:

-Buy a 96 or older, not going to happen since I already have so much into my build.

-Find a CRD engine to swap. Ha good luck finding one and if I do, do I really want to drop that much money into it?

-Register the car in a county with no emissions. Not really an option I have right now.

As far as the reason for the swap, my build intentions are to have a vehicle that I can get in and drive ANYWHERE. The car is not my daily driver (I drive it 2-3 days a week). I do plan to drive to South American in the near future and would like to have better gas mileage as I do so. I also own a food truck and WVO options would be awesome considering I already have vegetable oil that I need to dispose of.

Any ways, looks like I will have to put this on hold until I get this whole emissions thing worked out.
 
Well, thanks to everyone's input and a lot more research, I have decided against the diesel conversion.

Now that I have decided against this I would like to get my engine more healthy and capable for my setup. I recently upgraded to 33x12.50 from 32X11.50 tires and added a front bumper, winch, and rear bumper. When I loaded my jeep up to go camping a few weeks ago, it started smoking real bad heading up I-70. Noticed it was just an oil leak, so I headed back home. Spent the weekend tracing the oil leak and replaced the oil filter housing seal, distributor seal, valve cover gasket, rear main seal and oil pan gasket. Not really sure what else it would be, but the leak is still there. It only is noticeable when I get on it a lot or when I am under heavy load. I drove it twice the other week 30 miles each day and it didn't do it once. Then today I drove it 20 miles and it started leaking and smoking (burning on exhaust). The only thing I could think of was because I had the AC on today and usually I do not have it on. Ac was also blowing fine until I punched the gas or was on the highway, then it would make a light whining sound and blow half as hard. Engine was also seeming kinda sluggish, like it doesn't have as much power since it stared leaking. Engine temp and oil pressure seem fine. I doubt it was just adding the tires and extra metal. I have the Chrysler 8.25 29 spline in the rear with a powertrax no slip "locker" and I believe stock gears. From what I have read the 8.25 29 spline should handle the 33" tires no problem. I would assume that it is just a seal in the engine since it has 125k on it.

At this point I am interested in finding a local shop that does great work on jeeps/4wd. Since I have the budget from the projected diesel swap, I would like to rebuild my engine and turn it into the 4.7 stroker. I know it is the opposite of the better MPG diesel I was looking for, but I believe I should be able to get the power I need, a healthy rebuilt motor and slightly better MPG with a proper tune.

Any advice, recommendations or thoughts would be appreciated.
 
The oil leaking sounds like the crank case isn't properly vented. Are you also getting blow-by into your air cleaner or down the throat of the throttle body?

It's not uncommon for the PCV tube from the manifold to the back opening of the valve cover to become clogged, either the tube, the brass fitting on the manifold, or the PVC valve itself. Blow through the tube and see if it flows good, is restricted, or completely clogged. Ensure the PCV valve rattles. Check the fitting at the manifold for clogs.

As far as Stroker builders..... I don't know of any. I do know there are crate 4.7's available out there. I think you may be kidding yourself if you expect a properly tuned 4.7 to get better MPG than a properly tuned stock 4.0. Especially if you're pushing stock gears to turn 33's. Strokers are gas hogs. They generally need to run larger injectors and require a larger throttle body.... which all equates to more fuel being used.
 
As far as Stroker builders..... I don't know of any. I do know there are crate 4.7's available out there. I think you may be kidding yourself if you expect a properly tuned 4.7 to get better MPG than a properly tuned stock 4.0. Especially if you're pushing stock gears to turn 33's. Strokers are gas hogs. They generally need to run larger injectors and require a larger throttle body.... which all equates to more fuel being used.

But they have alot more power than a 4.0 ;)
 
I got 2mpg better with my 4.6L stroker than with any stock 4.0... if I could keep my foot out of it. I averaged 15-16 with every 4.0 I've ever owned, 20 on the highway if I got lucky. The 4.6 averaged 17-19 mpg, and I had a couple of road trips with mpg's near 24 highway (no passes). And yes, they have more power (/tim allen voice/).
 
Pulled off the PCV tube and checked it. Not clogged in the valve, the tube or the brass fitting on the intake manifold. Checked the air cleaner, clean. Checked the throttle body, no blow by but it was a little dirty from carbon build-up. Cleaned it real well with seafoam. The PCV valve had no rattle, so I got a new one along with the grommet/seal as it was hard as a rock. The new one didn't rattle either. I don't believe there is a check valve in there, can suck and blow through it no problem. Sprayed some degreaser on the engine and took the jeep to the self wash and hosed down the engine. Ran fine, even with the A/C on, but it didn't get to really open her up. I will see how it goes on my way to work tomorrow (Denver to Parker). If it's still acting up, I might be able to track the leak down better with a clean engine. Thanks for your help Yellaheep.

If you can see my 4.0 getting better MPG with the proper components and tune then I am all ears. What would you recommend? I was thinking about swapping the gears next anyways.

As far as the stroker goes, I have heard most people getting 17-19MPG and some even getting 20MPG with the right bolt on components. I'm getting 16MPG right now and that is mostly highway, so any of those numbers are better. As far as the power, I agree xj-grin, "hawhawhaw".
 
I get better mileage with the bigger throttle body on my old Renix engine. Runs much smoother. I also have a 2.5" exhaust with a fancy header. That did nothing for mileage way back when I had it done. Anything you do to increase air flow, and or compression at this altitude will help mileage, because the engine is working more in it's design range.
 
Proper gearing will help further your goal of more power/ better mileage.

If you are planning on driving to south America, you might as well add some lockers while you are in there...
 
I have a locker in the rear and was thinking of adding one to the front, but feel it might be over-kill. I have been to slaughterhouse, miller rock, caribou creek and wheeler lake and have yet to put my jeep in 4WD.

As for gears, I think I know what my jeep will be getting this week.
 
I have a locker in the rear and was thinking of adding one to the front, but feel it might be over-kill. I have been to slaughterhouse, miller rock, caribou creek and wheeler lake and have yet to put my jeep in 4WD.

As for gears, I think I know what my jeep will be getting this week.
Sorry but, I gotta call BS.
 
Call it what you want, but you weren't there. Your opinion stands no ground.
The first 3 are technically possible in 2 hi.

Unless there is a Wheeler lake other than the one in Park county, I want to wheel with you this summer and watch you do it in 2wd. :cheers:

I simply am baffled.
 
I'm down :cheers:. Maybe I chose great lines, it wasn't easy, but I did it. I was having drive shaft problems so my 4WD was N/A till a few weeks ago.

I have never owned a vehicle with a locker so I don't know how it is supposed to act, but I can tell you I am very impressed with the powertrax no slip. It just grabs and goes. When your in the ruts, you just give it gas and instead of spinning it slowly spins the wheels and and starts moving, then you let off the gas and the jeep just climbs. All you have to do is give it a little gas here and there.
 
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