Mat sensor???

[B.RAIDER]

No, well you could since they have the same resistance BUT they are a different NPT size, the MAT is 1/4" NPT and the CTS is 3/8" NPT.

But the correct answer is that NAPA has the right part listed with the wrong name. If you look at the picture, the sensor shown has the open cage with the sensor easily seen unlike the CTS which is enclosed in brass. The pictured sensor is the right one for the RENIX CTS, I'm running it right now.

Cool..........I'll check it out. Thanks

 

[xjtrailrider]

Note I gad a typo in my original posting;

No, well you could since they have the same resistance BUT they are a different NPT size, the MAT is 1/4" NPT and the CTS is 3/8" NPT.

But the correct answer is that NAPA has the right part listed with the wrong name. If you look at the picture, the sensor shown has the open cage with the sensor easily seen unlike the CTS which is enclosed in brass. The pictured sensor is the right one for the RENIX MAT, I'm running it right now.

 

[B.RAIDER]

I think this is/was the NAPA part number for the MAT or ACT sensor;
Item#: DEMTS10192

Can you see if you can get that part where you are?
I craped out here and have exhausted all resources here locally (all different part numbers from diffrent brands).
Looks like a PNP in gonna be called for in this case.

 

[GarageAlchemist]

That is why I like the mod to move the MAT to the air tube.

http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm

best damn link ever.

 

[B.RAIDER]

Well went to the PNP...got two MAT sensors for 2 bucks apiece. Both ohmed within the specs in the book and close to each other in ohms also.
Still have a high idle after warm up and it seems to be searching a little bit for the sweet spot....1000 to 1250 rpm's.
Now to see if I have an exhaust leak somewheres without removing to sheilding around the intake and all. I'm thinking it might be the manifold to pipe gasket.

 

[xjtrailrider]

Well went to the PNP...got two MAT sensors for 2 bucks apiece. Both ohmed within the specs in the book and close to each other in ohms also.
Still have a high idle after warm up and it seems to be searching a little bit for the sweet spot....1000 to 1250 rpm's.
Now to see if I have an exhaust leak somewheres without removing to sheilding around the intake and all. I'm thinking it might be the manifold to pipe gasket.

Im surprised you haven't removed the heat riser shield from the manifold yet, they usually rattle like heck when the get rusty. The RENIX manifolds seem to be better about not cracking than the HO's, check the donut at the down pipe.

 

[tbones88XJ]

I had the same problem and I replaced the MAP Sensor and the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and it fixed my problem. I also have an 88. Just a thought, hope it helps.

 

[B.RAIDER]

I had the same problem and I replaced the MAP Sensor and the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and it fixed my problem. I also have an 88. Just a thought, hope it helps.

I've got about 500 miles on a new TPS.... checked it again today and it is still calibrated like I set it months ago. The MAP sensor has the correct output voltage coming from it and it also appears to be functioning properly.

Im surprised you haven't removed the heat riser shield from the manifold yet, they usually rattle like heck when the get rusty. The RENIX manifolds seem to be better about not cracking than the HO's, check the donut at the down pipe.

If you are refering to the shield surrounding the throttle body and the top of the intake manifold...mine is in excelent shape.
I plan on replacing the "donut" with new when I get around to ordering it, it's not something they keep in stock...at least not around here anyways. Tomorrow I'm gonna crawl under and see if I can tighten the flange with the donut to see if that helps.