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Master cylinder upgrade

XJ master, and everyone keeps asking about the prop valve, but I don't understand how that's relevant as my problem starts LONG before the prop valve pops the rear closed.
But, just cause, I've tried both the stock XJ , as well as a ZJ 4w disc prop valve. Changing the PV had no affect because the fronts are already locked up and preventing the pedal from going further down, while the rear's can still be spun by hand.

Think of it this way. If you cap off your front output from the MC, but leave the rear connected, now hit the brake pedal. The pedal won't move because the front is already as far as it can go. If the pedal can't move far enough to push the secondary piston (for the rear), the rears aren't going to do anything.

I've also removed the prop valve entirely just to appease several other guys who were sure this was a PV issue. it's not. If I use my power seat with a block of wood wedged into the brake pedal, I push the pedal 1". At that point the fronts cannot be turned by hand and the rears can. If I push it to 2", the rears start tightening up, but can still turn by hand. The PV doesn't pop until 4".

In real world driving, 3" of pedal is enough to lock up the fronts on dry pavement. Again, tested with the PV removed entirely to the same effect.


Loads of guys run the WJ fronts with the XJ MC without issues, and loads of guys run the KJ rears with the XJ MC without issues, but I've never found anyone running both. My suspicion is that either the KJ's require way more fluid volume than the WJ's, or my MC is buggered and the secondary piston is somehow not moving far enough.


Actually, that gives me an idea. I recall losing a rear brake line last year to a tree, and I lost ALL brake pressure. I've never gutted an MC, but I'm assuming the primary piston is directly attached to the secondary, and that those two should be providing fluid isolation so that if you lose a brake line, you should still have pressure to the other end that didn't get ripped off.. Correct? If this is the case, the fact that I lost all pressure would suggest that the isolation between front and rear pistons in the MC has failed, in which case, that secondary piston is probably not really sealing well. Sound about right?
 
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I'm not blaming anything, just trying to get an idea where you're at.

Let me ask the question differently;

what year XJ or ZJ are the current master cylinder and prop valve from?

They change a lot more over the years than most people think.
 
98 XJ MC and block. 98 ZJ PV. Also 98 XJ PV. Swapped PV's several times even though I can't imagine any way the PV has anything to do with it but everyone keeps telling me to check it again :). I strongly suspect most guys don't know how the PV works, and think it acts as a bias valve during all braking operation, rather than just bias during extreme pressure.
Also, this wasn't my thread to begin with. Just highjacked for visibility because i"m losing my mind. My original thread here: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1109833
 
If you think volume is the issue, you throw a master from a dodge durango onto that 98 booster, and it will increase volume to both ends, but to the best of my understanding of the components you should not be having a volume or pressure problem. Make sure you properly understand how to adjust the peddle rod, which you may have to trim down a bit with a grinder.

Can you post 4 or 5 good quality pictures of your rear brakes, from a few angles?
 
I can later tonight.

I suspect volume is the issue, but not volume in general. Just the ratio of volume between front and rear. Either the MC provides more volume to the front than the rear (stock XJ MC), or the WJ require less volume than the KJ. Either would make sense.

THrowing in a larger volume MC probably doesn't solve the problem because it'd just lock the front up earlier, and the rear (secondary) piston still wouldn't be able to travel far enough to provide that extra volume to the rear calipers, no?

Perhaps I'm just out to lunch on the MC internals, but from what I've seen from diagrams, pedal connects to the rod, which drives the primary piston, which drives the secondary, so the stroke of both pistons will be identical. If the bore of both MC pistons is the same, you'd have equal fluid volume to both outputs, but I feel like it'd make sense that the XJ MC, being setup for drum rear, would have a smaller bore for the secondary (as the drums require less volume during all braking). Is this not correct? Wouldn't a bigger MC just lock up the fronts a little earlier and have absolutely no affect on the volume actually going to the rear as it's limited by the volume that we can force to the front?

Wouldn't a bad seal in the MC secondary piston, or the secondary being smaller bore result in precisely what I'm seeing?
 
I just cant believe that a KJ would require that much rear volume.

It just is not believable. But if it were the case, I would throw those brakes in the trash and get the same ford 8.8 brakes everyone else uses and be done with it. You've spent more time on this than the value of the parts are worth.
 
That may be the right answer, but as I just bought new pads/rotors/calipers, I'd hate to go out and buy another set of 8.8 plates, calipers, pads, rotors, and shoes, and find out my MC is to blame. The fact that there seems to be no isolation between front and rear circuits makes me suspicious. I think I'll just crack that MC open and take a look, check for any failures, and give those bores a measure, as no one has ever posted about whether or not the bores are identical. They probably are, but I hate assumptions.
 
I've installed a lot of brake upgrades on XJ's at this point.

The best by a long shot was prototype black magic kit. Dodge 1500 front stuff and ford explorer rear. 98 XJ booster, Dodge Durango master, 99 XJ prop valve.

IMG_20150530_161403858_zpsha8qdznq.jpg


IMG_20150530_161420163_zpswpboguj2.jpg


Never took a picture with the master installed.

IMG_20150530_171115252_zpslisdzude.jpg



You're really not far off of that keeping your WJ fronts. This had much bigger diameter rotors but not a lot bigger caliper.

IMG_20150530_110219647_zpsw7vnjtkc.jpg


But I just can't fathom the volume of the rear being a problem at all. Maybe I need to order up some KJ parts and compare them to my 8.8 stuff just to know.
 
Well, I've got an old set of KJ calipers going back for core anyhow, and I already popped one of the pistons out. If you give me direction, I can go measure and post the numbers. I figure just knowing the bore should be enough right?
 
Yeah, get me the bore and i'll compare it to the stuff I run.
 
well it looks like the 8.8, ZJ, KJ and Crown vic all user the exact same bore rear caliper.

the problem is not volume.
 
Loads of guys run the WJ fronts with the XJ MC without issues, and loads of guys run the KJ rears with the XJ MC without issues, but I've never found anyone running both.

I ran WJ front and ZJ rear (same bore as KJ rears) with a 98 XJ master, with and without the ZJ prop guts. Braking was awesome. When I installed new rear pads, I noticed the difference - leading me to believe the rears were attending the party, though I never did try to spin them on a jack with the brakes engaged (why would I?)

Switched to Durango (Dakota?) 1 1/8" master cylinder. Pedal felt great but performance decreased for a given level of effort.
 
I ran WJ front and ZJ rear (same bore as KJ rears) with a 98 XJ master, with and without the ZJ prop guts. Braking was awesome. When I installed new rear pads, I noticed the difference - leading me to believe the rears were attending the party, though I never did try to spin them on a jack with the brakes engaged (why would I?)

Switched to Durango (Dakota?) 1 1/8" master cylinder. Pedal felt great but performance decreased for a given level of effort.

That's the thing with the WJ calipers. They work so well that if you do both the WJ and the rear discs at the same time, you think they're both part of the massive upgrade. I did the KJ rears first and noticed a pretty big upgrade, but when I went to the WJ fronts as well, that's when I noticed the rear was weak. Like, might as well not bother with rear brakes weak.

I believe I have found evidence that the XJ (like almost all MC's) MC secondary bore is in fact slightly smaller than the primary (which makes sense). Someone in another thread (same topic) confirms that the KJ caliper does have a larger bore than the ZJ, which would pretty much confirm my theory.
I got lazy and it's raining out so I'll measure mine later or tomorrow to confirm.
 
X2 on the front WJ brakes.

I swapped in an 8.8 and WJ booster and master, (as my ABS pump was making noise on my 90 XJ). With the XJ front brakes and the 8.8 rears it stopped ok, just barely locking up 35's. I had, (well actually still have) a pedal problem. I could lock up 35's, but the pedal would go to the floor if I kept pressing. I bled and bled and bled, tried 2 different MC's and boosters, replaced every inch of line, replaced the rear calipers and pads and same thing. Tried it with and without XJ and WJ proportioning valves and no change, front brakes would barely lock up and the pedal would go to the floor if I continued pushing.

I blocked off the front line at the MC and tested stopping with just the rears. The rears don't do much. The rears barely slow it down. But the pedal was rock hard with very little travel.

I did the WJ knuckle/brake swap and it locks up 35's much harder than it did with the XJ front brakes. (However the pedal will still go to the floor).

My conclusions, the WJ front brakes grab alot harder than the stock XJ brakes, and the rear 8.8 disks don't do much.

And I've got no idea why my pedal goes to the floor, but I can live with it because it stops so freakin' hard.
 
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Tried it with and without XJ and WJ proportioning valves and no change,
What WJ uses a prop valve? AFAIK they all use the ABS pump to modulate the brakes.
 
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