Making the frame purdy

[Xjin85]

In doing rust repair of the rear Quarter Panel arches and doglegs, I learned a good lesson. Always grind off surface rust and if it cannot be ground down to bare metal without compromising the steel integrity, best to cut it out and MIG Weld a repair panel. That is what I am doing right now, just got the new quarter panels, will decide how much of each panel will be needed based on the rust I cut out. The fix will either be to replace the whole quarter panel or some portion of it using plug welds and 3M structural Adhesive. Still pondering. Waiting for reliable temperatures >50 degrees.

I'm waiting for the warmer weather to turn around soon too so I can do all the metal prep and painting while it's warmer out so it cures correctly.
I am waiting to see what the condition is of the rear quarter panel when I take off the bumper. My guess is I will at least have to cut N fold it. Don't have a mig welder yet but playing on buying one soon. Speaking of which. What is the best Universal Mig welder from Harbor Freight would you guys recommend? I need something that can do fabrication on the exterior and the frame. I also have a bunch of other things planned which I will need a mig welder for,. Ie. Welding new spring perches and bigger ZJ knuckles (eventually), Body armor, and all kinds of other projects.

 

[Xjin85]

It sounds like the POR-15 is designed for that purpose and the prep is designed for clean rust free metal if I understand correctly, because the POR-15 will not adhere properly to clean rust free metal on it's own. How well it achieves that goal? I'm not sure. But POR-15 has been around a long time, so they likely are doing something right.

Personally if I was doing it, I would take it to clean rust free metal and use the POR-15 prep product (scuffed to their surface roughness specs) rather than skip the prep product and go POR-15 over rust. That is just my opinion, but I am super (likely overly) picky about it.

Either way your project likely won't be cheap and will take time to do. I think you should spend the little bit of extra time and money to do it as recommended by the manufacturer, it is the best way to get the results you want/expect from the product.

For sure, you convinced me and I am going to do it by the book. What Gritt sandpaper do you recommend? Would I paint over the clean/non-rusted metal also with the Por 15 or just paint the remaining rusted areas where I couldn't get the rust off and then spray the rest on the clean rusted metal with RP-342?
I am concerned that if I paint the clean areas of the metal that have no rust with Por 15 it will have trouble bonding to the metal and flake off.

Without going out and taking things apart I am going to say 1/2-20.

Finding the right castle nuts can be tricky. Tacoma Screw got me some that were too shallow for the job.

I found these castle nuts specifically for jeeps but it doesn't give the specifics of what size they are:
Jeep Tie Rod Castle Nut (Click link to amazon)

I also found these: 1/2-20 Castle nuts (click)

Would either of these nuts suffice? (assuming they will fit like stock)

If I recall correctly of my memory I think the upper Ball Joint Castle Nuts are 22mm, the lower ball joint castle nut is 28mm, and the tie rod end Nut is 19mm.

 

[DirtySouthXJ]

For sure, you convinced me and I am going to do it by the book. What Gritt sandpaper do you recommend? Would I paint over the clean/non-rusted metal also with the Por 15 or just paint the remaining rusted areas where I couldn't get the rust off and then spray the rest on the clean rusted metal with RP-342?
I am concerned that if I paint the clean areas of the metal that have no rust with Por 15 it will have trouble bonding to the metal and flake off.

You can use the wire wheel to knock all the rust and remaining coatings down, then I would use somewhere in the 80 - 120 grit range sand paper (unless POR-15 recommends something else) to leave a toothy surface profile for the product to hold onto. Take your time and get all of the rust off, even in the hard to reach areas. When it comes to anything paint or coating related, prep is everything. You should be spending much, much more time prepping than actually painting. Your results are going to hinge on the prep.

From what I understand, POR-15 either needs to be applied over the POR-15 brand metal prep or over light/surface rust because it will not adhere properly to clean bare metal (and even less likely over a surface that is not rough or toothy enough). If you go to clean bare metal and will be using the POR-15 metal prep, thoroughly clean and degrease before applying the metal prep.

POR-15 has PDF tech sheets detailing everything you should do, you should download and read those before starting the project imo because there are steps that must be followed to achieve the results you likely are looking for.

https://qr.por15.com/QR-assets/downloads/POR15/POR-15_TD-MetalPrep.pdf

https://qr.por15.com/QR-assets/downloads/POR15/POR-NoReadDirections.pdf

 

[Xjin85]

You can use the wire wheel to knock all the rust and remaining coatings down, then I would use somewhere in the 80 - 120 grit range sand paper (unless POR-15 recommends something else) to leave a toothy surface profile for the product to hold onto. Take your time and get all of the rust off, even in the hard to reach areas. When it comes to anything paint or coating related, prep is everything. You should be spending much, much more time prepping than actually painting. Your results are going to hinge on the prep.

From what I understand, POR-15 either needs to be applied over the POR-15 brand metal prep or over light/surface rust because it will not adhere properly to clean bare metal (and even less likely over a surface that is not rough or toothy enough). If you go to clean bare metal and will be using the POR-15 metal prep, thoroughly clean and degrease before applying the metal prep.

POR-15 has PDF tech sheets detailing everything you should do, you should download and read those before starting the project imo because there are steps that must be followed to achieve the results you likely are looking for.

https://qr.por15.com/QR-assets/downloads/POR15/POR-15_TD-MetalPrep.pdf

https://qr.por15.com/QR-assets/downloads/POR15/POR-NoReadDirections.pdf

Thanks for the added and much-appreciated advice.

I've already bought just about everything I needed (so far but it's always something...ALWAYS) other than the POR metal prep.
I've got a wide array of different types of wire wheels for both the drill and the angle grinder. I even bought twisted wire bore brushes to use with the drill to get in all the nooks and crannies.

Just need to get the 2 things you suggested and I'm on my way once the weather gets just a bit warmer.

It's been a blessing getting into XJ's and I've already learned so much over the past several years on this forum. But it has also become somewhat of a curse
in that it's also become an obsession on top of me being too dumb and stubborn to do it any other way. This Jeep has brought me through hell and back with all the problems and money I've dumped into it. She's left me stranded on the road countless times over the past few years having all kinds of different problems. And the more I put in the blood, sweat, and tears the more I obsessed in learning more on how I can make it better. And the more I buy. Then there is the countless hours I spend online every day researching all this stuff. I am so far down the rabbit hole now.

She looks rough on the outside but man, with all the work I've done to this date. I am hoping to keep her going for another 30.

Once I get the underbody fully taken care of I'm going to get cracking on the interior. I have some awesome ideas. And then after that IDK. I was thinking about painting it but I like the idea of her being a sleeper and eventually making it into a stroker and maybe even adding a supercharger while I'm at it. I've already squeezed out as much HP as possible (I think) with stock and have done every other upgrade imaginable to it. All day I think and drool at the thought of that becoming a reality someday.

 

[Anak]

I found these castle nuts specifically for jeeps but it doesn't give the specifics of what size they are:
Jeep Tie Rod Castle Nut (Click link to amazon)

I also found these: 1/2-20 Castle nuts (click)

Would either of these nuts suffice? (assuming they will fit like stock)

If I recall correctly of my memory I think the upper Ball Joint Castle Nuts are 22mm, the lower ball joint castle nut is 28mm, and the tie rod end Nut is 19mm.

Odds are either one of those would work. The first link (Crown) does not give the thread pitch, but giving dimensions as 0.75" would suggest they use a 3/4" socket/wrench. Which would be tie rod end nut that you are calling 19mm.

XJs are a funny mix of standard and metric. My experience with the axles has been that the differential itself (cover bolts and bearing caps), tie rod ends and lug studs are standard, but the control arm bolts and brake caliper bolts are metric.

 

[Xjin85]

I was doing some more reading and people were recomending to also apply Rust Mort or some other kind of rust converter to "kill" the rust from further spreading.. then apply the POR-15.

Some even suggested to use the rust converter, prime it, then apply the por-15.

Another question is: Do I have to skuff the metal even when painting my diffrencials? or just scuff on clean metal that was once painted?

According to their website:
"wire brush loose rust and scale. Then remove any grease or oil with POR-15 Cleaner Degreaser and etch with POR-15 Metal Prep.
DO NOT USE SOLVENT BASED CLEANERS."

->So does that mean I should't use Acetone to cean the metal after scruffing and applying the metal prep? and use ahigh % isopropyl alcohol (99%) as Bent Suggested?

First you should clean the frame. Get off the oil, grease and undercoating. Probably then remover any heavy rust. Then use a degreaser. POR 15 does sell a degreaser. I'd use whatever. Then the metal prep. Then the POR 15. I like two coats. Then two coats of whatever paint. You have to apply the 2nd coat of POR 15 before the first gets hard. So, still tacky. In about an hour. Then the same for the first coat of paint or whatever.

Awesome, thanks for the pointers. I decided to use ZEP Purple degreaser after reading reviews and YouTube clips from people saying it wasn't all that great.

I was going to do the entire undercarriage and frame of the jeep. But I have decided to just do the frame for now and then do the undercarriage of the body come Septemberish. The reason is I will be rebuilding a Chrysler 8.25 (with 4:88 gears) and swapping out the Dana Turdyfive. So I figured it just be best to do it then with the diff's out of the way.

It sounds like the POR-15 is designed for that purpose and the prep is designed for clean rust free metal if I understand correctly, because the POR-15 will not adhere properly to clean rust free metal on it's own. How well it achieves that goal? I'm not sure. But POR-15 has been around a long time, so they likely are doing something right.

Personally if I was doing it, I would take it to clean rust free metal and use the POR-15 prep product (scuffed to their surface roughness specs) rather than skip the prep product and go POR-15 over rust. That is just my opinion, but I am super (likely overly) picky about it.

Either way your project likely won't be cheap and will take time to do. I think you should spend the little bit of extra time and money to do it as recommended by the manufacturer, it is the best way to get the results you want/expect from the product.

Took your advice and ordered the POR-15 Metal Prep. Was going to start today but it's raining cats n dogs out. I cant find for the life of my what # scand grit to use. On their website all it said was "Sandpaper" or "Scotch Brite Red pads"

 

[RCP Phx]

What are you doing with the inside of the framerails where the cancer usually starts?

 

[DirtySouthXJ]

I was doing some more reading and people were recomending to also apply Rust Mort or some other kind of rust converter to "kill" the rust from further spreading.. then apply the POR-15.

Some even suggested to use the rust converter, prime it, then apply the por-15.

Another question is: Do I have to skuff the metal even when painting my diffrencials? or just scuff on clean metal that was once painted?

According to their website:
"wire brush loose rust and scale. Then remove any grease or oil with POR-15 Cleaner Degreaser and etch with POR-15 Metal Prep.
DO NOT USE SOLVENT BASED CLEANERS."

->So does that mean I should't use Acetone to cean the metal after scruffing and applying the metal prep? and use ahigh % isopropyl alcohol (99%) as Bent Suggested?


Awesome, thanks for the pointers. I decided to use ZEP Purple degreaser after reading reviews and YouTube clips from people saying it wasn't all that great.

I was going to do the entire undercarriage and frame of the jeep. But I have decided to just do the frame for now and then do the undercarriage of the body come Septemberish. The reason is I will be rebuilding a Chrysler 8.25 (with 4:88 gears) and swapping out the Dana Turdyfive. So I figured it just be best to do it then with the diff's out of the way.


Took your advice and ordered the POR-15 Metal Prep. Was going to start today but it's raining cats n dogs out. I cant find for the life of my what # scand grit to use. On their website all it said was "Sandpaper" or "Scotch Brite Red pads"

Supposedly POR-15 used directly atop light/surface rust works as a rust converter. The reason you would need the metal prep is if you are applying POR-15 atop clean, rust free metal (whether previously painted or not) because POR-15 needs either light/surface rust or metal prep etched surface to adhere to as designed.

If you decide not to completely remove the rust and to use another brand rust converter as a base, you likely should allow it to fully cure and scuff it (not remove) with sand paper in the 80-120 grit range, clean thoroughly and then apply the POR-15 but there is no gaurentee of results or compatibilty with other brand's products (rust converters etc.) and I think it would be redundant. I wouldn't do this personally.

You may want to either use POR-15's cleaner/degreaser or contact them about alternatives, at least for the final cleaning before applying metal prep. If I had to guess, I'd guess that they mean mineral based solvents like found in parts washers and/or using gasoline/diesel/kerosene as a solvent.

Personally, if I was doing this project and using POR-25, I would:

- Thoroughly degrease everything and anything you plan on coating with POR-15.
- Take it/them down to bare metal with the wire wheel.
- Clean/degrease.
- Scuff with 80-120 grit sand paper (I would likely use 80 grit for a significantly toothy surface, but not go crazy removing tons of material).
- Clean again using a cleaner/degreaser that does not leave a residue.
- Apply POR-15 metal prep per tech sheet.
- Apply POR-15 per tech sheet.
- Apply top coat of UV resistant paint. POR-15 recommends either applying paint top coat within a specified window (see tech sheet) before full cure or after full cure with a rescuff of the surface. Personally I would apply after full cure and rescuff with 100-120 grit to avoid two different products in a semi cured state from trying to cure at the same time.

 

[DirtySouthXJ]

Personally, if I was doing this project and using POR-25, I would:

** Meant POR-15 **

The edit time limit wouldn't allow me to correct it.

Also, I will add..

I am not an expert. I am not saying I am right or anyone else is wrong, just that this is how I would do it if it was my project and I had the same goals as I believe you may have.

 

[Xjin85]

I just got the rust converter and have everything I need to get started.

Tomorrow there is a 3 day break in the weather so I’m going to get hustling early in the morning because it’s going to rain Tuesday afternoon.

One thing that concerns me a bit is the the temps are still kind of low and will be ranging from 35-55 degrees during these days which is less than ideal according to Por’s website. Ideal min temp is 70+degrees so I’m hoping it won’t have any negative effect on how it bonds or cures to the metal. Hopefully it will just take longer to dry (and hopefully will dry within 2 days before it starts raining come Tuesday)

What are you doing with the inside of the framerails where the cancer usually starts?

Going to be doing this also but waiting for the weather to get warmer.

Was thinking either Eastwood or Fluid Film.

I’ll be splitting up this entire project into 3 stages. #1 differentials, #2 frame/wheel wheels, #3 inside frame

Supposedly POR-15 used directly atop light/surface rust works as a rust converter. The reason you would need the metal prep is if you are applying POR-15 atop clean, rust free metal (whether previously painted or not) because POR-15 needs either light/surface rust or metal prep etched surface to adhere to as designed.

If you decide not to completely remove the rust and to use another brand rust converter as a base, you likely should allow it to fully cure and scuff it (not remove) with sand paper in the 80-120 grit range, clean thoroughly and then apply the POR-15 but there is no gaurentee of results or compatibilty with other brand's products (rust converters etc.) and I think it would be redundant. I wouldn't do this personally.

You may want to either use POR-15's cleaner/degreaser or contact them about alternatives, at least for the final cleaning before applying metal prep. If I had to guess, I'd guess that they mean mineral based solvents like found in parts washers and/or using gasoline/diesel/kerosene as a solvent.

Personally, if I was doing this project and using POR-25, I would:

- Thoroughly degrease everything and anything you plan on coating with POR-15.
- Take it/them down to bare metal with the wire wheel.
- Clean/degrease.
- Scuff with 80-120 grit sand paper (I would likely use 80 grit for a significantly toothy surface, but not go crazy removing tons of material).
- Clean again using a cleaner/degreaser that does not leave a residue.
- Apply POR-15 metal prep per tech sheet.
- Apply POR-15 per tech sheet.
- Apply top coat of UV resistant paint. POR-15 recommends either applying paint top coat within a specified window (see tech sheet) before full cure or after full cure with a rescuff of the surface. Personally I would apply after full cure and rescuff with 100-120 grit to avoid two different products in a semi cured state from trying to cure at the same time.

Awesome, awesome info man. Thanks for sharing this. I was going to use 340 Grit scuff pads, would that suffice? Or would 340 only be good for the unibody but not the heavier metal on the differcials?

Zepp Purple is pretty heavy duty and I think it will do just fine as a degreaser but I do agree that the Metal Prep from Por is important to use in conjunction with their rust prevention product just to play it safe.

Don’t need the UV resistan paint bc I’ll be painting over the Por-15 with Rp-342

 

[DirtySouthXJ]

I just got the rust converter and have everything I need to get started.

Tomorrow there is a 3 day break in the weather so I’m going to get hustling early in the morning because it’s going to rain Tuesday afternoon.

One thing that concerns me a bit is the the temps are still kind of low and will be ranging from 35-55 degrees during these days which is less than ideal according to Por’s website. Ideal min temp is 70+degrees so I’m hoping it won’t have any negative effect on how it bonds or cures to the metal. Hopefully it will just take longer to dry (and hopefully will dry within 2 days before it starts raining come Tuesday)


Going to be doing this also but waiting for the weather to get warmer.

Was thinking either Eastwood or Fluid Film.

I’ll be splitting up this entire project into 3 stages. #1 differentials, #2 frame/wheel wheels, #3 inside frame


Awesome, awesome info man. Thanks for sharing this. I was going to use 340 Grit scuff pads, would that suffice? Or would 340 only be good for the unibody but not the heavier metal on the differcials?

Zepp Purple is pretty heavy duty and I think it will do just fine as a degreaser but I do agree that the Metal Prep from Por is important to use in conjunction with their rust prevention product just to play it safe.

Don’t need the UV resistan paint bc I’ll be painting over the Por-15 with Rp-342

Red (3M calls them maroon) scotch brite pads are roughly 320-400 grit. If that is what POR-15 specs than it should work for their product in the situations they detail in the tech sheet. Many bodymen use 80-120 grit to scuff bare metal for primer, I wouldn't go any finer than the red/maroon scotch brite pad. If you are using another brand rust converter as a base for the POR-15, I would let it cure fully and scuff it before applying the POR-15 atop it to minimize the chances of poor adhesion.

RP-342 is a cosmoline (waxy grease) style product (preservative), you could use it or similar inside the frame rails and other areas (rockers, inside doors, behind flares and trim, inside pillars etc.). It will stay where you spray it, the challenge would be getting thorough coverage inside cavities because it will not migrate far. We used to coat fresh machined, bare steel parts with a similar product (CRC SP-400) and store them outdoors with no additional coatings for months on end with no signs of rust.

Fluid film will migrate/wick but won't last as long as a cosmoline (waxy grease) style product (preservative).

Good luck on your project!

 

[75SV1]

When using POR 15, I put some Saran or Cling wrap between the lid and can. This does two things. First, helps keep the lid from attaching to the can. The other, it helps to keep the POR 15 'fresh'. I like to use the small cans. Still, it depends on the area you are going to cover.

 

[Xjin85]

Where do I start....

So, I jacked up the Jeep on Monday and Got started. Boston had couple days nice warm sunny weather so I wanted to take advantage of it before it was going to start raining again. This (in theory) is a simple job but it never is that easy working on a 20+ rusted jeep is it? Anyways, I was confident I'd have everything done within a few days but right off the bat it was a shit strorm.

I decided to buy some ACOS adjustable Coil Spring Spacers that allows you to add 1.5" to 3.75 inches of front lift.
Since, I was taking all the stuff off and was going to replace the Coil Spring Isolators I decided to get these bc I am only on 3" of lift at the moment (installed Zone 3" Coils and Leafs last year) and needed more clearance for the new 33" Tires I'll be mounting once all this is done.

ACOS + Axcel Seals (Click)

First,
The Wheel bearing nuts were rusted to hell and one of the bolts were already stripped. I managed to get out of them out with heat and PB but the stopped one is impossible to get out. Can I cut it with a fly wheel?

Rusted Hub Bolts (Click)

Second,
Steering knuckles and dust shields were rusted to hell was so much that they were "fused" together to the wheel bearings (both sides).
So, I had to also buy new knuckles for both sides. Now I have new fancy Axcel Tube Seals are the Dust Shields necessary? Because both of the shields on both side are rumbling part. But I don't want to buy them unless I have to...I figured the Axel tubes may allow me to just throw out the dust shields and ride without them.


Third,
The Lower Spring Perches/Shock Brackets on the Passenger side was so rusted that it looks like Swiss cheese and I didn't see any spring retainer bolt.
Do you think it would be ok to leave it "as is" or will I have to cut and weld on a new one? Because I don't have a welder at the moment nor can I afford one bc the Jeep is making me broke.

Rusted Perch (Click)

Fourth,
Not sure how I didn't notice it before but my way bar links were all jacked up and over extended with the new lift I put in last year. I decided to buy some Zone- Off-road Sawyer discos

Busted Sway Bar Links and New Disco's (Click)

ANYWAYS....
Since, I couldn't get the Wheel Hub Bearings off I decided to take everthything else off in the mean time and started degreasing, powerwshed then sanding down (repeat) Differentials with a wire wheel and angle grinder and got into all the nook and cranny spaces with tiny drill bit wire wheels and brush. Managed to finish sanding down the differentials and got most of the rust off down to bare metal the best I could. But I can't finish removing the remaining rust off the diffs until I get those Wheel Hub Bearings off..

Also, started on the wheel well and front of the frame but started loosing day light...Now today and tomorrow it's raining (FML)

Wheel Well Pics (click)
Progress (click)


Not sure what I am going to do. I need to get her back on the road fast so I can go to work. It's my only vehicle. Any Advise and pointers would be greatly appreciated.

As always, Thanks everyone for all your help!

-Fletch

 

[75SV1]

On the Wheel Hub bearings, Keep the bolts in there. But a socket on them. If you turn the steering wheel, and socket contacts the frame or something else it should pop it free. Then you can tap it out with the other bolts. Keep a socket on the heads, as not to damage them.

 

[Xjin85]

On the Wheel Hub bearings, Keep the bolts in there. But a socket on them. If you turn the steering wheel, and socket contacts the frame or something else it should pop it free. Then you can tap it out with the other bolts. Keep a socket on the heads, as not to damage them.

That's actually what I initially did which caused the bolt to bend at the tip when it came out and the socket is now stuck on the bolt.

 

[Xjin85]

What do you think about that rusted perch? Base on the pictures do you guys think I’d be ok with that?

 

[Xjin85]

When using POR 15, I put some Saran or Cling wrap between the lid and can. This does two things. First, helps keep the lid from attaching to the can. The other, it helps to keep the POR 15 'fresh'. I like to use the small cans. Still, it depends on the area you are going to cover.

Oh! I read somewhere a guy mentioned to simply screw in a screw on the top of the can. Pour whatever amount you need into a cup. And then screw back in the screw. He swore by this method and it never dried out.

 

[RCP Phx]

What do you think about that rusted perch? Base on the pictures do you guys think I’d be ok with that?

In your pic I can only see a portion, but it looks worthing of a welding repair that by a lot more time.

 

[Xjin85]

Got far today.

Got all but one (lower) ball joints out. Left tension on the other one over night with the BJ press and will give it another wack in the am with some OB and heat.


Applied rust converter on the frame, unibody, and differentials. Once cured in the am I’ll give everything a power wash, start skidding the metal, then do metal prep.

To be honest I was just thinking to skip the POR-15 all together and just spray everything with RP-342 in the morning after wringing everything off.


After figuring out how I’m going to approach painting this all, install the new ball joints.

Yesterday, I took out both the left and right axles and they were rusted to hell. So I’m gonna drive those down with the wire wheel tomorrow and do the same process for those.

***The inner axle tubes where the axles go in or very rusted. Would there be some kind of process of how to clean this these out?***

Need to find a vise somewhere to use so I can bang out the U-Joints in the axel.

Also, is it necessary that I have the does shields? Cause I don’t wanna buy new ones if I don’t have to.

After all that, I will be cutting g the upper bump stop tubes for the ACOS coil spacers.

If anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask. I’ll be updating the thread with more pics tomorrow.

 

[Xjin85]

Hey Guys,
Could really use your help.

Front brake hardline broke on the passenger so I am looking for a CHEAP kit but can't seem to find one. Only ones I found online are for NON-ABS. Will NON-ABS brake lines work with ABS? I have a 2001 so unforutnarley, I have ABS until I swap the 35 wit a 8.25. But that won't be anytime soon. Can anyone point me in a a direction where I can fins a pre-bent kit for just the front passenger? Don't feel like bending lines.

THEN, for the double doody...

I broke a M10 drill bit into the port hole when trying to tap the hole for the ACOS spacers...FML!

How would I go about getting this out? Drill it? If so what # bit should I use? I am concerned that if I use too large of a bit, I may run the risk of messing up the threads and won't be able to re-tap...How do I fix this and do it right?...because if I dont I will have to cut and weld a new bump stop tube thing...and I dont have the time or $ for that at the moment.

Got the last ball joint out finally. And (as mentioned) cut the bump tubes off for prepping the ACOS coil spacers just before breaking the Tap bit on the passenger side.

Power washed everything this afternoon once all the rust converter cured.

***AXEL SHAFTS***
Degreased and removed all the surface rust off both the right and left axel shafts. They were in really rough shape....
Axel Shaft Pic 1
Axel Shaft Pic 2
Axcel Shaft Pic 3
Axcel Shaft Pic 4
Axel Shaft Pic 5
Axel Shaft Pic 6
Axel Shaft Pic 7

Both of the outer axel shafts are HEAVILY RUSTED. I am hoping I can remove more once I remove the u-joints. Do you think I have to replace these? Also, how do the gears look? I am praying I don't have to replace any more components as I am bow broke. lol

Tomorrow (God Willing) I start painting everything with the RP-342 and putting all the new Ball Joints, Axel u-joints, Rotors, calipers, break pads, knuckels, etc.