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lower radiator hose

S

SINCITY192

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Bronx, NY
88 cherekee
4.0
6 cyl

i brought a radiator hose (the lower one) drivers side of course i notice that it doesnt have the spring inside?
Whats that all about?
do i need it or what?
this jeep has been screeming for attention and the winter made me fall behind tryna get it done before summer help me out guys. thanks

also i wanna drain and flush the system, should i do this before or after i change both hoses?
 
Well, Im no expert, but I believe the spring is for structural integrity of the curving hose. If your new one is stiff, and is hard to bend where it curves, than skip the 'spring'.

When you take the upper and lower off, your going to be half way through your drain and flush, so I suggest you flush while the tubes are off.

feel free to correct me, anyone
 
I don't know whether you really need it (see various threads on the subject) but I took the spring out of the old hose and put it in the new one.

Take the hoses off, flush, put new hoses on.
 
can i flush the system with the hoses off?

i was thinking flush it to clean the entire system then i was going to change the hoses right before i refill with coolant

what do you think?
 
Pelican said:
I don't know whether you really need it (see various threads on the subject) but I took the spring out of the old hose and put it in the new one.

Take the hoses off, flush, put new hoses on.
Click to expand...


how do u flush with hoses off?

i thought to flush i have to fill with distilled water and a flush and run the engine for a while?
 
The spring is there to help prevent the hose collapsing under suction as it gets older. You can either reuse the spring from the old hose (you'll want to "unscrew" it out instead of just pulling it straight out,) or you can go to a fluid power supplier and get a "suction hose support coil" in the size to fit in the hose. These are usually CRES/stainless steel, and should last the life of your truck (just move it from hose to hose as you change them.)
 
5-90 beat me to it!

I'm pretty sure you need the spring. I re-used the old one since the parts guy looked at me like I was on crack when I asked about the spring. It keeps the lower rad hose from collapsing on the older cooling systems. It might not collapse right away, but it could under heavy operation.
I worked it out by twisting the spring out, then twisting back in on the new lower rad hose. I found it was easier to start from the sharp bend in the new hose, I believe it was the upper end.
 
The new Goodyear hoses (and even OEM Chrysler hoses) do not come with the spring anymore due to newer construction of the molded hoses.

The old and flexible hoses on my XJ when I bought it did not have a spring and I still didn't have any problems, then when I replaced them with new Goodyear hoses there was still no spring....no problem ever.
 
thanks guys i appreciate it!

seems easy enough

how about flushing be4 i change the hoses to get the whole system clean?
and then changing hoses be4 putting coolant?
 
clunk said:
5-90 beat me to it!

I'm pretty sure you need the spring. I re-used the old one since the parts guy looked at me like I was on crack when I asked about the spring. It keeps the lower rad hose from collapsing on the older cooling systems. It might not collapse right away, but it could under heavy operation.
I worked it out by twisting the spring out, then twisting back in on the new lower rad hose. I found it was easier to start from the sharp bend in the new hose, I believe it was the upper end.
Click to expand...

You don't really need the coil, but it's not a bad idea to have it. It doesn't really come into play for anything until the hoses get a few years on them and get soft anyhow - and at that point, they really should be replaced (rather than reinforced.)

Hose construction has improved greatly over the last few years, but it's still useful to have as a "fail-safe" or a "limp home" measure. So, I keep mine.
 
ok i got the coil thing down how about the flush thing can i flush it with some distilled water and a flush until its hot then repeat until its clear drain, then can i change the hoses to keep them clean? then i'll fill with coolant, is this ok
 
Pelican said:
To be clear, you do not need to flush with distilled water.
Click to expand...

Correct - if you drain all of the tap water from the system before you refill it! The drain plug for the engine block is behind the exhaust manifold, and it takes an 8m/m or 5/16" square drive tool (you can make one fairly quickly from a 5/16" or 8m/m cheap-O hex key using a grinder. Takes about three minutes.)

You don't want to leave any tap water in the system, and you do want to use some variety of flush "chemical" (they're mild to middlin' strong acids - the stronger ones come with neutralisers to stop them. Only use the strong ones if you haven't flushed in a while, or actually see stuff built up on the surfaces...) to get the crud out. Running just plain water to flush the system won't do anything.
 
i would like to thank all of you especially 5-90 for ya excellence in describing things its greatly appreciated and put to good use!! I thank you, and will update if i have any problems.
 
That is an interesting link, but it doesn't seem like it worked too good. One day later he still has more coming out and want's to reflush. He must not have done it well enough the first time. Multiple flushes over a short period of time is too much used antifreeeze to dispose of. He really didn't know what he was talking about anyway. 90 degrees out and his thermostat didn't open?????????
 
Does anyone have a list of typical reasons the lower hose would collapse?

I just put a new water pump,all new NPA hoses,CSF radiator,new cap,new T-stat and flushed the system.Now the new hose is collapsing(I have been checking it for leaks and have noticed it sucked until it collapses)Once I pull the rad cap of it pops back open.

This is with all new parts....any ideas?
 
I wonder if air in the system could let that happen? If the system between the water pump and the thermostat (basically the engine) is not full of coolant, it is pushing in coolant before the thermostat opens up to let coolant flow into the radiator so it creates a vacuum. Just a theory????? Is this a high flow water pump?
 
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