Looking at various steering options,,, input wanted please

[96XJ2Door]

I run currie with the tierod flipped to the top of the drivers knuckle.

Having direct input from the pitman arm to the knuckle is key to avoiding dead spot. Any inverted T setup will have a dead spot.

Currie is the best bolt on option. If you want to go crossover like WJ you need to re-locate the trackbar. Look at what the team naxja/pettycash guys did for the KOH car.

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Ya,, I heard about the "dead spot" thing while reading the dozens of arguments,,,,,errrrrr replies that have been posted. The Currie IS a bit more expensive but ya get what ya pay for. So this is pretty much a bolt in thing right? Im not too worried about the cross over thing I don't think But I just really wanna get away from that weakazzed stock setup I have on now. With the 6.5 inches I have the deficiencies are popping out like coal in the snow. thanks and could you show me a pic of yours please?
:eyes:

 

[Daltonamorph]

I built an OTK Crossover setup using all Ruffstuff 7/8x3/4" heims. I braced the passenger side over the knuckle so its in double sheer, while the driver is still single with safety washers. Pitman arm is single sheer with safety washers as well. I used the Ruffstuff offset panhard mount on the axle and made my own for the frame. The heims are noisy at slow speeds, but over 15-20 you cant hear them at all. There is no dead spot, and it performs flawlessy on and offroad, even under flex. It was very simple, just time consuming to get it all done the right way, and the strongest way possible. I can get a few pictures for you if youd like, but I highly recommend it. Much better then stock steering in all levels. Although a forewarning, its much more responsive onroad, and it took me a couple days to get used to it. Besides that, its been awesome.

 

[96XJ2Door]

I built an OTK Crossover setup using all Ruffstuff 7/8x3/4" heims. I braced the passenger side over the knuckle so its in double sheer, while the driver is still single with safety washers. Pitman arm is single sheer with safety washers as well. I used the Ruffstuff offset panhard mount on the axle and made my own for the frame. The heims are noisy at slow speeds, but over 15-20 you cant hear them at all. There is no dead spot, and it performs flawlessy on and offroad, even under flex. It was very simple, just time consuming to get it all done the right way, and the strongest way possible. I can get a few pictures for you if youd like, but I highly recommend it. Much better then stock steering in all levels. Although a forewarning, its much more responsive onroad, and it took me a couple days to get used to it. Besides that, its been awesome.

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Yes please,,,

Would you send a few pict up here for me to check out? I am VERY interested in what you had to say and the degree of detail you said it with.

I thank you for your time and patience
:eyes:

 

[rockclimber]

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Ya,, I heard about the "dead spot" thing while reading the dozens of arguments,,,,,errrrrr replies that have been posted. The Currie IS a bit more expensive but ya get what ya pay for. So this is pretty much a bolt in thing right? Im not too worried about the cross over thing I don't think But I just really wanna get away from that weakazzed stock setup I have on now. With the 6.5 inches I have the deficiencies are popping out like coal in the snow. thanks and could you show me a pic of yours please?
:eyes:

this is what currie steering looks like. this is with the tie-rod flipped to the top of the drivers knuckle. without the flip (requires cutting off sway bar mounts and welding raised ones on) it looks like the stock steering.

its just much much stronger

 

[96XJ2Door]

Another question,,, What is DOUBLE SHEAR?

I see this term a lot and when I try to look it up I don't get the info I am looking for.

I think I would like my tie rod to go knuckle to knuckle with the drag link on the same axis/joint that the tie rod is on (passenger side). And all of this I would like ON TOP as shown in thi preceeding picture. (thx RockClimber). Kinda like this ,,http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=914259

What would this be called and more importantly,, is it doable? I really wanna remove the steering stabiliser from the picture too.

 

[souske]

Double shear:

Single shear:

Crossover, flipped OTK: ( technically using a high steer arm)

 

[rockclimber]

Another question,,, What is DOUBLE SHEAR?

I see this term a lot and when I try to look it up I don't get the info I am looking for.

it means the joint is captured on both sides by a bracket.

I think I would like my tie rod to go knuckle to knuckle with the drag link on the same axis/joint that the tie rod is on (passenger side). And all of this I would like ON TOP as shown in thi preceeding picture. (thx RockClimber). Kinda like this ,,http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=914259What would this be called and more importantly,, is it doable?

what you are talking about is called cross-over and will take a considerable amount of work to fabricate.

I really wanna remove the steering stabiliser from the picture too.

why? I can't think of a good reason to do that

 

[96XJ2Door]

I really like the simplicity of the OTK crossover setup. I see the extra work involved as well. As for not wanting the stabilizer,,I think that with a properly setup steering it would not be needed. As all it really does is buffer the steering,,corrrect?

What parts would I need to start gathering up to install this? I am pretty handy when it comes to fabbing stuff. I was a structual fabricator for a long time till a heart attack forced me to take up my current line of work (IT). I really appreciate ALL the positive input I am getting from everyone here. Here ia a pic of my XJ as it sits now. With 6.5?" coils and a bitch spring pack in the rear. The rear worked out so nice I didn't even need to use any shackles for lift.

Check it out and let me kno what ya'll think.

Thanks

 

[X E Ryder]

I've never run currie, but it seems very popular including jeepspeed guys. If its strong enough for desert racing, it's got to be good.

+1 ^This, I agree.

Pony up the cash and run Currie's steering.

Yes it is a little pricey up front - you do get Direct Bolt On though - for a DD that you can't afford to have apart for awhile while you mod, this is a good solution.

What I am asking for are personal opinions on the different types of steering..

My Personal opinion is that Currie is the Best Bolt-On setup.

What the majority of builders here are doing and how the different types are holding up..

This is really covered in all those threads you mentioned reading.

I am NOT asking which steering I should run. I don't need someone telling me that..

Hmm.

From what I am reading the steering stabilizer isn't really needed either if everything is set up properly. I like the clean look without it personally.

Disagree. A DD you need it for driving at speed, a trail rig you need it so you don't get busted fingers.

Bolt ons:
-Bolt on curries- Expensive/ strong/ cant get ends everywhere if unlikey needed

And yes you are asking what steering to run... people run all the above. I personally have run a posion spyder HD tie rod only, I dont DD anymore and am on 35s.

Only other comment is I think the Currie is geared for Minimum 4" lift up to 6" - call them as their own guys run them and can help too.

 

[96XJ2Door]

I used control arm drop brackets in the front instead of long arms. So far so good actually. For what I needed/wanted it has performed as expected and the ride is pretty nice too. I'm now gathering up some 4.88 gearing and a detroit for the rear and gonna lock the front with an aussie. If I could find an OX for the front (used) that would be my preference but hey,, I gotta watch expenses for a while yet. When I did the rear I also cut the rear shock mounts off and moved them to the top of the axle for clearance issues. This really helped when I went shock-shopping too.

Hrmmmm,,, ok then,,, It appears that Currie appears to me the obvious chioce so far. Would someone please point me in the correct direction with a link?

And again,,, I thank all

 

[rockclimber]

currie can be run with more than a 6" of lift.

if you are over-traveling the pitman arm TRE, you can put it in a shop press and add more bend to the shank so that it has more droop capable.

 

[Daltonamorph]

Heres the pictures you asked for

Here you can see what I meant by double sheer:

Excuse the winch cable, I need to zip tie it back into place. Heres the trackbar mount:

 

[clean4drxj]

Becareful showing pictures of your steer.. The steering police will get you!

 

[rockclimber]

That setup is better than inverted T.

However, be careful running a rod end at the pitman arm without double sear. A GM high angle TRE will handle much more axle drop out, with a rod end I single shear, you run the risk of bending or breaking that bolt.

Also, how is the bumpsteer with that panhard setup? Do you do much fast moving? I suppose it may be live able if you are running limited travel or don't go fast.

 

[96XJ2Door]

Heres the pictures you asked for

Here you can see what I meant by double sheer:

Excuse the winch cable, I need to zip tie it back into place. Heres the trackbar mount:

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THIS is what I want to do with mine, THANK YOU !!

Now to the details,,, what do I need and is there a writeup on this setup?

I already got a Tie rod from a Grand V*,, that should be sufficient ,, right?
Looks like some heims for the ends,, is this doable?

The only thing that bugs me is the "stacking" of the drag-link on top of the tie-rod. What hardware can withstand the shear forces that I know are gonna be applied to this? I am running a Dakota steering box as well.

That setup is better than inverted T.

However, be careful running a rod end at the pitman arm without double sear. A GM high angle TRE will handle much more axle drop out, with a rod end I single shear, you run the risk of bending or breaking that bolt.

Also, how is the bumpsteer with that panhard setup? Do you do much fast moving? I suppose it may be live able if you are running limited travel or don't go fast.

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Yes,, please respond about the bumpsteer and the double shear on the pitman.
Thank you again

 

[Spokes]

remember though if u are going OTK you should relocate the track bar to on top of the axle just to help with steering angles.

 

[96XJ2Door]

remember though if u are going OTK you should relocate the track bar to on top of the axle just to help with steering angles.

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Thanks Spokes,,,,
I will def keep that in my thoughts when putting this all together.

Seeing how I live in Pa. Does anyone think there will be inspection repercussions? My guy is pretty cool but I do NOT wanna put his liscense in any jeopardy.

 

[Spokes]

Heims arent street legal for steering use so it depends on what set up u plan on running... where are u in PA?

 

[96XJ2Door]

I'm about 30 miles South of Harrisburg,, Small town called Mount Holly Springs.

I live right at the bottom of the mountain there and we have SOME decent wheeling.

You outta come up some weekend.

 

[rockclimber]

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THIS is what I want to do with mine, THANK YOU !!

Now to the details,,, what do I need and is there a writeup on this setup?

I already got a Tie rod from a Grand V*,, that should be sufficient ,, right?
Looks like some heims for the ends,, is this doable?

The only thing that bugs me is the "stacking" of the drag-link on top of the tie-rod. What hardware can withstand the shear forces that I know are gonna be applied to this? I am running a Dakota steering box as well.

The tierod from a v8 grand will work with your stock drag link. You will still have y steering.

To run a crossover style steering like the one pictured
You would have to build the tie-rod and drag link, cut off the axle side trackba mount, weld one on up higher, cut off and relocate the factory sway bar mounts.

If you are going to go through all that trouble, you might as well do a WJ swap. Look at how the team naxja KOH car did theirs.