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Looking at an XJ tomorrow--What should I focus on?

F

forthehalibut

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Colorado
I am looking at a 95 Cherokee for sale tomorrow for around $3300 [it has 136k on it]. It seems to have what I need--tow package, a/c, etc. It even has fog lights already on and tinted windows.

What should I really focus on to make sure this rig is worth the purchase--besides the obvious of checking the engine and tranny out? Any key points to look at for ruest, wear, etc? Any "tricks" y'all know I could use to see that the electrical, exhaust, whatever isn't "doctored up?" Something I should be aware of concerning it being a unibody?

Thanks in advance.
 
I saw one XJ where the unibody started becoming week and it started to tear apart by door jam latch. But being a 95, unless it was beat to death i dont think you would have a problem with that. The only thing i can think of is drive it, if its 4x4 make sure all of that works, check the fluids. Goodluck with the buy.
 
check the airbox to see if there is any blowby oil on the air filter. if it's a new filter they might have tried to hide it. check for any oil leaks (focus in on the oil filter adapter and the rear main area). check all fluids and just give everything a once over.
 
Some minor things to look for.

Check for rust on the underside and the paint around the windows. Check around the towing package for rust too. Check the carpet for water stains along the edges of the doors and liftgate,

On the fogs don't be suprised if you find rust. The factory ones all rust out at some point.

Check the rear of the engine for oil leaks. Check the air filter for "Oil Blowby", along with the vacuum lines for holes.

Records are always great to see. Shows the owner has been taking care of the truck.

Good Luck.
icon14.gif
 
Thanks for the replies. As for checking the record, this vehicle was on the internet and it had a free carfax record to look at. That,at least, showed clean all around.

Hopefully--it will be well worth $3k. My Toyota's been gradually declining the last few months
 
I have a 95 also with 190K auto and 4.0HO. I love mine, been one of the best rigs Ive ever owned. $3300 seems a bit high though, better be like new. Nothing in particular to look for other than whats mentioned here.
Good luck.
 
Make sure the windsheild has not leaked and rotted the floor... I've seen a 95 with just that problem. Just dip under the vehicle and look at the floor pans just in front of where the seats bolt and up the curved floorpan.

The one I saw the windsheild had leaked and caused serious rotting under the passengers feet.

Good luck.
 
I think i scored the deal of the century with my 95, 155000 miles for 1500, compleatly stock prolly never saw 4 lo.. power nothing, no rust. Good luck with the buy, i love my 95... after the mods of course
 
langer1 said:
Be sure it's a 4X4 :)
Click to expand...


You funny little boy! :dunce:

Well, I did check it out. It is very clean and nice looking. HOWEVER, I looked uned it, and could see the salt from when he brought it here from Kalifornicate [a bit over a year ago]. Also, there was oil on top of the engine, and I could see a leak underneath. Don't know where that is from, but it went to the oil pan, and dripped onto the ground. I did check the oil AFTER test-driving it [for about 10 miles], and the oil looked a nice light brown. Unless he added it just recently, that is at least a good sign [the "Jiffy Lube" sticker showed he changed it about 2000 miles ago]. Had a tow-bar, but no wiring, so I'm not sure if I would need to beef up the rear suspension for towing my boat. The a/c needed re-charging, too.

All the gauges seemed to work. The oil pressure was just under 40psi when we were running smoothly down the road, and it ran at about 200F in the coolant department.

The engine did have a lot of pep to it--or course, compared to my Toyota 4-banger, so does a giant tortoise. He did show me all his repair records, too. He has had about $500 or so of brake work done on it a few months ago, new tires 3300 miles ago, and he seems to have kept up with the standard maintenance. However, $3250 is a bit steep--especially considering the oil leak.

Trying to find a good vehicle is very frustrating. Heck, I wouldn't mind one like that, if the price was right to at least give me some $$$$ to get it fixed and make it worth my while. :helpme:
 
If the oil pressure gauge is accurate (often it isn't) that's a little lower than I would find comfortable. The leak could be anything from the back of the valve cover to a rear main seal. And of course if it just has a hitch but no wiring, etc., you almost certainly don't have a real tow package. That's all right for light to moderate towing, but if your boat is heavy you'll need to beef it up a little and probably add a tranny cooler. You should be able to do a little better for the price, I think.
 
Matt:

I figure the leak is the rear main seal. It was pretty good, and did it when the engine was on and up to pressure. I also figured that if I did get it, I would not only have to install wiring for the trailer, but beef up the rear suspension.

Once I do find a good one for sale, how hard would it be to install a tranny cooler for the standard x-mission? Any drilling involved in the casing?

I have the itch for one, but can't seem to find a good one to scratch it. Sheesh!
 
Standard transmissions generally don't use transcoolers. Automatic fluid is heated by the fluid coupling of the torque convertor, and the slipping of the bands to give you that smooth shifting. Ie, a 1-2 shift will slowly release 1st while slowly engaging 2nd. There is heat build up while the bands are slipping. The driver notices a smooth shift between gears, and the temp of the fluid increases a bit. I leave my AW4 in the "Power Mode" (91 is selectable). Which provides for firmer shifts, and less slipping between gears.

Another thing to check on a used vehicle is the radiator. Get it up to operating temp, and then shut it off. Feel the end tanks of the radiator, and then feel the core. The core should be at the same temp. If the core is cooler at the bottom, that part of the radiator isn't flowing. If it's the original radiator, chances are it's partially plugged. Just because the gauge read ok, doesn't mean the cooling system is in tip top shape. Throw a trailer behind it on a hot day and sit in traffic, or pull up a hill and you'll see the gauge climb. Again, the end tanks and the whole core/finned area should be an even temperature. Cross flow radiators like in the XJ will plug from the bottom up. So feel the bottom first. Mine is cool until about halfway up. I've got a new 3 row that is going in before I take it on the trails. I also got the guy down a bit on the price because of that. :)


Rear main seal is about 10-15 bucks. Get the 95 and newer pan gasket, since it's a 95, you won't have the issues with scraping it. The older gaskets are a pain to remove. Oh, and do yourself a favor, wait until it's lifted to swap the seal, makes getting the pan out much easier. I should've waited, ended up almost removing the front axle to get enough room. Lifted ones let the pan fall right out. :)



Mark
 
Last edited:
forthehalibut said:
Also, there was oil on top of the engine, and I could see a leak underneath.
Click to expand...

when i bought my 96 it had a very dirty engine with oil on top but there was no leak anywhere from the engine.....except

check the little gasket where the line from the airbox goes to the top of the engine

sparkplugmanifold.jpg



push down on this, oil may seep out. this is common, i have been told that these should be replaced about every 30k miles. its a 5 dollar part. it was the only leak on mine, and had made the entire engine look dirty. after i replaced it i took it to the car wash and power washed the entire engine with the engine degreaser they have available. now my engine is CLEAN AS HELL, things turned out to be black that i had no idea were, cleaned off tons of dirt, grime, dust, and it still looks that clean 8k after that with no other cleanings, because that was the only leak.

just a little thing that might be causing oil on top of the engine to look for in your search.

good job turning that down if you did, bought my 96 in pristine condition with 112k for 3250......
 
heres a few options from a source you might not have tried (its huge on the west coast), denver was only colorado city listed i could find on craigslist. if none of these float your boat i would check dever.craigslist.org every day. go to the for sale section and then cars/auto

http://denver.craigslist.org/car/125156644.html
http://denver.craigslist.org/car/123869032.html
http://denver.craigslist.org/car/123863229.html
http://denver.craigslist.org/car/122987636.html
http://denver.craigslist.org/car/120767266.html


my personal favorites of all i looked through for denver
#1 http://denver.craigslist.org/car/121517804.html

and WOW #@2 http://denver.craigslist.org/car/117595888.html

that 2nd one is a beauty.......low miles, power everything, cheap and 2 door to boot! i would be calling on that one right now!
 
ok let me stress right now, and please someone back me up (or fire me down i guess), HOW GOOD OF A DEAL THAT 2nd one is!!!!!!!!!! call on that if you can get to denver!
 
Great site you gave me there, jpars! :thumbup: :patriot:

How's this one look? If it doesn't have the tow package, how much can I expect to spend to upgrade it for towing? I know it will be about $300 if I have some place install the towbar and wiring, but I don't know how much it would be to upgrade the rear suspension:

**********************************************************

1995 Jeep Cherokee--Excellent condition, Well-kept, $2800 obo - $2800


1995 Jeep Cherokee -- Great condition, clean, runs smoothly with no problems. I am the first owner of this car and it is in good exterior, interior and mechanical condition with no major problems and no major accidents (please feel free to run a VIN check). 4-wheel drive, 4door, 5-speed, 151K miles, forest green color, tinted windows, roof rack, cd player, AC. Great vehicle for family, students or as a winter vehicle.
Please feel free to contact me with any further questions or to submit an offer.
 
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