• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

LASR 2.0

Which LED's are those? Part #?
I'll post up all the part numbers and links, too a lot of research, trial and error to get the right ones.

Going to get a dyno, lets see what the stock numbers are and just how restrictive the stock intake box really is...
 
I ordered all lights in "SMD LED"

LED light list:

Overhead Console LED= (4x) 420-CWHP3 *this was a tad too long but works*

Rear Cargo LED= 420-xHP3

Kick Panel LED= (2x) 1156 LED *from amazon LINK

Lic Plate LED= 194 LED LINK (set of 10) *tight fit but it closes and works

Trans Shifter and 4wd shifter= 194 LED *tight fit , some dremmel or drilling required

Gauges LED= (5X) 5mm NEO5-WHP

Stock Radio LED= (10x) *be cautious installing LED's here, stock radio circuit board breaks easily

HVAC LED= (2x) 4mm NEO4-WHP

Mostly from superbrightleds.com some from amazon

Fog Light /Rear Wiper/ Rear Defog= (1x each) 3mm NEO3-WHP
*no change in color using super white, might try
using blue or those 30% brighter ones.

Remember if LED don't work one way flip it around,
they are polarity sensitive.

I also might try ordering radio LED's in blue to see if that works better.
 
Well, did the DYNO, unfortunately the guy wasn't able to hook up the lead to the #1 spark plug due to the coil pack, so he did it just on the tumbler, I'm gonna try calling dynojet to see if thats legit.

But for now here are the numbers completely stock at the rear wheels on a DYNOJET 424x...

1st run = 170.11 HP w/air filter box
2nd run = 190.07 HP w/ air filter box

3rd run = 184.30 HP -factory air box removed, straight air
4th run = 191.27 HP -factory air box removed, straight air

5th run = 198.32 HP -air box reconnected
6th run = 187.21 HP -air box reconnected

186.43 avg HP with air filter box
187. 79 avg HP without air filter box

but the huge diff between 170 and 198 is strange, guy stated that it didn't shift right the first time so ruling out the first run equates to...

191.87 avg HP with air filter box
187. 79 avg HP without air filter box

Either way these numbers are well over what I expected out of a 190 HP stock engine with 25% drive terrain loss, or something is very wrong with the test.

Vehicle info:
2000 XJ Classic
4.0L (synthetic oil), 0331 head-newer, without Precats and with Coil-on-Plug
2wd AW4
113,900 miles

VIDEO of the 5th pull LINK

7047220001_d9ce210eab_b.jpg


7047219629_f6184041de_b.jpg
 
Last edited:
Called DYNOJET yesterday and they say the numbers are legit, that even without the tach pickup/lead that I should still get the right HP number, the guy also recommended using the fuel injector wire for tach pulse, I'm gonna try to get there next week to see if we can get some kinda tach reading.
 
The numbers seem high because they are... Dyno jets run roughly 14% high, which would put the numbers right where they should be. Also, when dynoing any vehicle, its best to not let it shift. You really want it to hold a single gear.
 
The numbers seem high because they are... Dyno jets run roughly 14% high, which would put the numbers right where they should be. Also, when dynoing any vehicle, its best to not let it shift. You really want it to hold a single gear.
That makes more sense, yeah, with limited resources in Hawaii and apparently lack of knowledge by the local boys and dynojet techs, 14% diff seems legit, but still pretty good numbers for 113k miles, so that roughly converts to:

165.0 avg HP with air filter box
161.5 avg HP without air filter box


good basline, lets see what that "stroker" can get her to... :D

also I hear it should be dyno'd in 3rd gear ? is there a way to get it there in the first place or just put it in 3 and wait til it shifts there then climb rpm's ? Thanks Tyler.
 
Upgraded the air intake and replaced the recall heat shield that was apparently installed back in 2005 but wasn't there when I bought it in 2010.

Before:
7047250889_4f9456e577_b.jpg


parts (thanks amazon and mopar):
7047249827_53f4be9e77_b.jpg


6901157216_09664e0ef1_b.jpg


After:
6901158266_0dfca8c84a_b.jpg


I know some don't like the K&N but it looks and sounds good and a little better throttle response. Its going to be snorkeled in the future, (yeah definitely snorkel, after the last water incident, just ask big alpha).

moving along slowly but getting there, more changes coming soon...
short term goals:
-4wd conversion
-exhaust
-headlights
 
Yeah, 3rd is the best gear to use as long as the pull doesn't take forever. It can be hard, but you normally wait to let it shift onto 3rd (put shifter into 3rd) and then get the rpm high enough that it won't down shift when you hit it.
 
Yeah, 3rd is the best gear to use as long as the pull doesn't take forever. It can be hard, but you normally wait to let it shift onto 3rd (put shifter into 3rd) and then get the rpm high enough that it won't down shift when you hit it.

or unplug the TCU.... it becomes a 3 spd manual, then just use the shifter.
 
HID upgrade! Finally, I can see at night !

ordered this set from amazon:
JLM Premium 55W Digital HID Conversion Kit H4 Flex Bixenon 6000K (HB2/9003 Ultra White)
and these:
AutoPal DOT H6054 7x6 Inch 200mm Headlights Pair Uses H4 Bulbs Non-Sealed H6014/H6052/H6054

when they arrived:
6927044528_4166e82ecd_c.jpg
7073124501_c105cd801f_c.jpg

7073121473_e9233faabf_c.jpg



Before and After:
6927026400_1434a00a61_c.jpg
6927040318_cf448cc0d1_c.jpg


before and after:
7073105739_9f03ccaa1f_b.jpg
6927041392_566758b9cf_c.jpg


Install:

-step one, remove old lights and install new housings
6927036008_b338c0a19e_c.jpg



-step two, lay the header panel down and secure with bungee
7073110859_19d93f5fbd_c.jpg



-step three, install wiring and secure modules to vehicle
7073113333_4d51180cd6_c.jpg
7073115617_d2ce40c280_c.jpg

7073116831_c927df0f2b_c.jpg
6927039376_126cb4c0a3_c.jpg



-step four, reinstall header and adjust lights if necessary

side by side comparison(factory sockets are deep enough with NO modification of the housing necessary):
6927029016_58c5fa5006_c.jpg


so far, its great! just getting that weird headlight stays on after switch is off but ill do some more searching around on here to fix that.
 
Just did a DDM HID install a couple of weeks ago and have the same issue. Right side stays on when I turn them off until I either flick the high beam switch or cut the Jeep off. I'll have to yank the fog relay and see what happens.

I'm using the same housings as well. I'm quite pleased with the output at night!

Edit: You did put the rubber boot around the back of the headlight housing? They will leak very quickly if you don't or if it's not seated properly...
 
Last edited:
i remember when i used to haul axles that way.......cardboard didnt save the d300 that emptied 90w in the floorboard one time though :(
 
i remember when i used to haul axles that way.......cardboard didnt save the d300 that emptied 90w in the floorboard one time though :(

4wd tranny and 231 like that too, lol 400 miles round trip in 8 hours to Rock Solid Off Road Fab

8317198192_515a61335c_b.jpg
 
and this...
8341559731_44b78fe89f_b.jpg


and these...
8348295054_ca4d49d9eb_b.jpg


cleaned these up some...
8348296422_54632566b6_b.jpg


and this...
8348297084_3d223d8a16_b.jpg


and this...
8347239649_9c75bdf29b_c.jpg


face lift in traditional LAZR style with new "Plasti Dip"
8348298758_b5e55f4996_c.jpg
 
Back
Top