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Just whats a vibration

XJ5 said:
Where's the best place to get some steel shims? Rustys are $30.00/pair compared to under $10 for his aluminum ones. Does that seem high to anybody else?

30 bucks/pair doesn't sound bad to me after having checked around. I have not yet checked Rusty out for shims thgough. I'd like steel 2.5's which I'm sure are going to be tough to find.

BTW, it would be interesting to see what TC's and axles you guys that are having the same problem I am have. Having the 242 TC and C8.25 axle, I may be a good candidate for a SYE. Getting a bit pricey for a 2 inch "budget boost." I'll not do a TC drop.
 
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I have the 231 and 8.25 axle. The vibes aren't that bad unless you really romp on it. I'm wondering if they may go away as the new pack starts to break in. I'd hate to wear out the u-joints in the driveshaft, but I wonder how much life they have left anyway, as they appear to be the originals with 160,000 miles.
 
Here's my thinking on how to determine the shim angle needed. Figure a 2 inch budget boost as is the case with most of us on this thread. You used some combo of leaves to achieve your boost (in my case a Qtec HD pack wed to my stock main). Now the lift you gained is from the increased arch which is effective between the rear shackle bolt and the axle (the part of your pack forward of the axle is flat).

The axle, the rear shackle bolt, and the point of intersection formed by a horizontal line drawn back from the axle and a vertical line drawn down from the rear shackle bolt form a triangle. Changing this triangle doing your lift pointed your pinion up causing vibes/rumbling sound, or at least that's my assumption. In the original stock configuration, the arch in your spring placed the rear shackle bolt about 0.5 inch above the horizontal line projected from the axle (my best approximation, feel free to correct me anyone).

Now with a 2 inch lift the shackle bolt is 2 inches above this horizontal reference line. Two inches minus 0.5 inches is 1.5 inches. The horizontal distance from the axle to the vertical line projected down from the rear shackle bolt is 29 inches.

So we have two legs of a triangle at 1.5 and 29 inches. The angle at the point of the triangle at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical lines is 90 degrees, so let's use some basic trigonometry. The angle at the axle whose cotangent determined as 1.5/29 is 3 degrees. You need a 3 degree shim, or close to it, to correct your pinion angle.:looser:
 
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Never mind that last post. After a couple beers I thought for a moment I was pretty clever but there is a key point there that makes no sense. I bet you can spot it.:doh:

That was just me trying to sell myself a 3 * shim since that's the smallest size I can find in steel.:(
 
OK, here's an update on this situation:

I have not yet installed shims, they haven't arrived yet, the latest from UPS is that they are out for delivery in Sparks, Nevada, which is somewhat odd considering I live in South Dakota. :(

Anyway, my mechanic who I consider to be highly competent says my low pitched "growl" is from my tires and dismisses out of hand the possibility that I have driveline issues. I have to say that the effect which is definately more audio than a vibration does sound rather like a vehicle crossing over a bridge, especially one with an old lattice style rather than paved flooring. On the other hand, the effect did only begin after I finished my bastard packs which lifted my XJ 2 inches above stock.

So I'm wondering if anyone has considered the possibility or investigated the potential for lifting a vehicle as a cause for more pronounced tire noise? How would you differentiate tire noise from a "growl" arising from altering driveline angles?
 
I'd say it's pretty clear lifting the truck didn't do a dern thing to your tires... if they didn't rumble before they ain't doin it now.
won't hurt to check your pinion angle and make it right with a shim anyway, even if some guys can run without one.
 
I remember reading that just a bit ago as I learn about my own vibe issues- vibration on deceleration only means (usually) means the pinion is too low in relation to the opposing yoke.
 
bassthumb said:
I remember reading that just a bit ago as I learn about my own vibe issues- vibration on deceleration only means (usually) means the pinion is too low in relation to the opposing yoke.

So that would mean a shim in the front of the pack?
 
Nine Mile said:
No that would mean fat part in the rear.

It's a spring over application.

gotcha, thanks.

What would be a good angle shim to start with for a 3" lift? Could I reuse the ubolts and nuts? They're seriously HD for the HD OME kit, and about $50.
 
nates94xj said:
gotcha, thanks.

What would be a good angle shim to start with for a 3" lift? Could I reuse the ubolts and nuts? They're seriously HD for the HD OME kit, and about $50.

Buy an angle finder for $10....otherwise you don't know what size shim you need or which direction to put it in.

Although you aren't really supposed to, I do re-use u bolts and nuts if I have just put new ones in there recently....
 
I put 2" Shackles on my XJ. It didn't do too much.
I added a 1.5 Block Lift Lift
I lifted it just where I wanted it.
Only Problen.
40-45 MPH Rumble
Should I spin the blocks so that the fat side is to the front?
Should I replase my U-Joints 78,000 Miles?
 
bassthumb said:
I'd say it's pretty clear lifting the truck didn't do a dern thing to your tires... if they didn't rumble before they ain't doin it now.
won't hurt to check your pinion angle and make it right with a shim anyway, even if some guys can run without one.


Its been a couple months since I started this thread. My rumble completely dissappeared about 2 weeks after my last post in the thread. Never did shim, in part because its winter.

The one thing I learned that I have to offer anyone else beginning to learn how to do mods is to monitor the vehicle for any abnormalities BEFORE doing the lift. That way you have a baseline for comparison post-lift. A big part of the trouble determining the significance of my rumble at 35-45 mph was not being sure if it had been present beforehand.
 
Same lift and same issues here. I've had mine on for a 1.5 years and now I'm noticing a vibration at highway speeds which is likely u joints so I'm going to replace them tomorrow night. It will be a toasty 18* then. Right now it's 4*. I have some lift blocks that I'm going to have a machine shop owner friend shave into some shims. I have a factory Tcase drop already so I know that I'm gonna need them. I'm going to start with 3*. I hope to do that in a couple weeks so I'll monitor here and give an update.
Before someone asks, yes, on some 97+ there were vibe issues and there is a factory tcase drop.
 
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