• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Junkyard treasures

esrasmu2001 said:
I know people say the 95-96 power brake booster is swappable, but I don't know how much modification has to be done

http://www.madxj.com/

Take a look at the tech article at MadXJ. It's a pretty good writeup. I used it when I installed my double diaphram booster on my '88. The main thing I did different was, I made several good measurements then cut the push rod just behind the bracket that mounts to the brake pedal. I then welded the old style bracket to the new push rod. Three years and no problems. I used heat dissipating gel to control heat, and not fry the diaphram, and welded just a little at a time with a wire feed. The hardest part is the brake fittings on the old lines won't work with the new brake master cylinder. I used this job to justify a new HQ flairing tool and built new brake lines. Looks stock both inside and under the hood and the double booster is a definite improvement over the old single diaphram booster. Good Luck.

Woody
 
Here in Masachusetts, there are TONS of used Cherokees. My friend got a Dana 44 from an 87 for $175.00. I went a few months later and bought one for $200.00 which I put a mini-spool into. There is another one in there as well so that makes THREE in one JY (Middleboro Auto Salvage). I bought newer wheels off an XJ for my 87 for $25.00 each.

By the way, I bought my 96 XJ Country for $500.00 with NO RUST but it has 194,000 miles. It runs great though. So far, I did rear brakes, starter and radiator. All for under $500.00 more so not bad for a grand!

The Want-ad is full of these things! Before I bought this 96, I called about an 89 in the Want-ad. He said it had some rust under the doors but wasn't bad. The second time I called to get directions, he said I could HAVE IT FOR FREE! We had a schedule problem meeting up and he sounded a bit crazy so I ended up with my 96.

You west coast guys need to come to New England... I'll show you all the scores!
 
For a decent cup-holder, and organization, I used the "insert" from a 1990-1992 or so Eclipse(Talon or Laser of course will work too) from the center console. Only a TINY bit of trimming, and it fits great in my 1990 Cherokee. I'll take a photo soon and post it.
 
Mothertrucker said:
if i pulled a caddi compresser could i inflate tires with it or just air shocks?????

I have a compressor from a lincoln continental (4 wheel bags). I hooked it to a air tank (the typical portable tire fill tank) to test it out.... it got to about 40psi fairly quick but didnt go much higher... so it would be ok to fill tires I guess.
 
You can get MJ shackles for lift, but they are only good for about 1/2-3/4" of lift. Other versions of that style shackle that might work, Ford Ranger/full size truck, fullsize Dodge/Jeep, fullsize Chevy trucks. These all had that very style of shackles, not sure about bolt sizes, but they are they right style and spring size.
 
IdahoEagle said:
You can get MJ shackles for lift, but they are only good for about 1/2-3/4" of lift. Other versions of that style shackle that might work, Ford Ranger/full size truck, fullsize Dodge/Jeep, fullsize Chevy trucks. These all had that very style of shackles, not sure about bolt sizes, but they are they right style and spring size.



any specific year or will any year shackles work for all the full size trucks???
 
Chevy 1/2 ton trucks are about the best source. The shackles give around 11/2 of lift, and are usually cheap in the 'yard since you very seldom sell them. I tend to use shackles from the late '80's and up, since they can normally be unbolted, and are less likely to be fatigued unlike the older trucks. And yes, the drop shackles work for lfting on a XJ, also. take the lift of the stock chev. shackle, and the length of the "drop", and there is a rough guess of your new lift. Just try to avoid the long shackles that are made from thin steel (duh), the real good ones have a welded in brace, and are, like, 3/8" thick.
 
Back
Top