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Jeep width, Full Size Dana 44

xalexjx

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Newcomb, NY
Ok, the current dana 44 in the front isnt cutting the cake(a narrowed powerwagon axle made by currie, uses jeep width 30 spline shafts), the ring and pinion are almost ready to fall out

New front axle build

79 ford f-250 High pinion dana 44
cutting it down to jeep width
butt weld jeep knuckles onto it to retain stock jeep, brakes, bolt pattern ect
gear it to 5:43 to match the back axle with an OX locker
run my chromolly shafts outta my current axle with CTM'S
Weld on some tj brackets and install.
the axle tubes on the full size d44 over the d30 are not even comparable.

new front axle, cut to width almost

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dana 44 vs dana 30

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CUTTING

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inner c's getting ready to be welded, jeep stock width :D

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inner c's butt welded on, inside and out, they shouldn't be coming off :D

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Half of the mounts are on
 
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Now i have to custom fit the coil bucket and lower control arm mount to fit around the casting for leaf springs, Then i need to finish the upper control arm mount that i have to weld to the pumpkin, Install the new upper and lower ball joints and the new ring and pinion+ ox locker and install it in the jeep Hopefully i have enough time to have it done by sat
 
Could go WJ brakes w/ D30 outers... I'd think that going with D44 brake parts would be better...
He does mention, though, wanting to maintain stock bolt pattern & brakes etc.
 
nice, lookin good so far
 
I'd go WJ outers & Mustang brakes with 1-Ton Chevy TREs for steering, if you are using D30 parts.. just my input.
 
In my opinion, I think that you did a few things that are questionable.

Butt welding the knuckles like that is not strong. You now have only the weld to hold the weight of the vehicle, rather than the axle tube. There is a reason that the inner C's are pressed onto the tube first, then welded. I really hope you trust your welds, as there is a large Moment on those welds, looking to rip them. You are also using the weak D30 inner c's that are prone to bending, as well as using D30 shafts, therefore negating any strength gains with a D44. Why?

Why retain stock brakes and everything? If you are going to 5:43 gears, you must be turning some big tires. That would require larger sized brakes, and the F250 parts would help you there. You also don't have any manual lock outs, or servicable bearings? This seems like you went through a ton of work to upgrade your axle, without actually utilizing many of the upgrades.
 
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Ok, to start,

Currie makes all their axles this way butt welding the knuckles on, also talked with adam clayton and he said thats the best way to do it as machining out the inner c's would make the inner c the weak link. The welds arnt going to break, the ball joints will snap off first. gotta love a 480v welder :greensmokHave you ever ran a full size dana 44 with hubs? Whats the first thing to break when running a strong axle shaft and running it hard. From my experience, the hub. This is a trailered only jeep so the hub's arnt really needed and as for the hubs i only put about 300-500 trail miles on it a year. Im running custom cut 30 spline moser shafts with CTM u-joints so i wont be breaking those (hopefully), maby one a year at most. Running the currie steering set-up currently, not planning on changing that as ill be going full hydro in the next couple months. As for tires im running 35" km2's so stopping isnt a problem, im running a 4:1 (have a 4.3 atlas waiting to go in) but with the 4cyl it works just about right, and with the 4.3 atlas ill be able to go to 37" red labels after i put full hydro on it. My main reason for going through all this work is because while i do have a 4cyl i seem to still be having problems with dana 44's and this was the best solution going to a high pinion axle without dropping 5k on pro-rock 60's just yet.
Last fall (the back axle also a d44 with 33 spline shafts)
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the jeep as it sits

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maby i just need to keep stripping the weight out of it

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:)
 
Ok, to start,
Currie makes all their axles this way butt welding the knuckles on, also talked with adam clayton and he said thats the best way to do it as machining out the inner c's would make the inner c the weak link. The welds arnt going to break, the ball joints will snap off first.

Machining down the tube, pressing it on, then welding would be a much better way to do it IMO.
 
I think towing that horse trailer around with the Jeep is why you keep braking axles. :)
 
Machining down the tube, pressing it on, then welding would be a much better way to do it IMO.

but i talked with 3 different maching shops and they said expect $300-400 at the cheapest, they recommended just v'ing out the seam and butt welding them with a powerful welder


as for towing i have a tow rig for the horse trailer and for towing the jeep :D
 
Have you ever ran a full size dana 44 with hubs? Whats the first thing to break when running a strong axle shaft and running it hard. From my experience, the hub.
so why not run a set of summit or warn or solid drive flanges?

why stock width? why stock bolt pattern?

why not go with the matching 9" rear and make the two bullet proof with flat top hydro steering and some sweet breaking options with the ford setup.

buddys tj on full widths and 39.50's.
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Have you ever tried going between the cones on a competition course with a full width rig? ;-) And the rear 44 is already so built its about the same as a 9" or close (except the r&p), I have it trussed and locked with a 33 spline ox locker and chromo shafts and disc brakes and everything. If it gets upgraded it will be either a pro rock 60 or a hi 9. And stock bolt pattern because I already have beadlocks for this bolt pattern and it matches the back axle. Not to mention my goal is right around 3k lbs by the time i get all done.
 
The welds arnt going to break, the ball joints will snap off first. gotta love a 480v welder :greensmok
If you went with the D44 knuckle, you wouldn't have to worry abou the ball joints snapping off. And I don't agree with you, you now have only that weld holding the entire weight of the vehicle, with a lot of leverage on it. It doesn't matter how thick or thin your axle tubes are, because there isn't any weight on them, just on the very end where the weld is. And a 480V welder doesn't matter, it just means you can easily overheat the metal and make it brittle.

xalexjx said:
Have you ever ran a full size dana 44 with hubs? Whats the first thing to break when running a strong axle shaft and running it hard. From my experience, the hub.
Yes, I have one underneath the front of my Jeep right now. Get drive slugs, they are solid and you don't have to worry about breaking them. And so what if you do? its extremely easy to change them. A lot easier than breaking a D30 shaft.


xalexjx said:
My main reason for going through all this work is because while i do have a 4cyl i seem to still be having problems with dana 44's and this was the best solution going to a high pinion axle without dropping 5k on pro-rock 60's just yet.
No, its not the best solution. You would have saved yourself a ton of time and money if you just got yourself a TJ rubicon axle, as thats essentially what you have now. A JK D44 would have been better as its already high pinion.

Machining down the tube, pressing it on, then welding would be a much better way to do it IMO.
I agree.


but i talked with 3 different maching shops and they said expect $300-400 at the cheapest, they recommended just v'ing out the seam and butt welding them with a powerful welder

They recommended beveling the axle tube and butt welding it because you didn't want to pay the money for the correct way. This is not the ideal way of building an axle.
 
Hey i think its gonna be a sweet build, (ive seen his work and he is GOOD), but im not as advanced as you guys are with specs and all.
If u think about selling it, send me a PM here or on ADKJ. ;)
 
Call currie enterprises and ask them how they build their dana 44 axles that are jeep width. When you get an answer back let me know. And i have this on the members section some wheres on pirate.
 
Hey, any updates on your d44 jeep with build??

Are u building this for the XJ or the TJ??

Its interesting to see this contravercial d44 build on here!! LoL.
 
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