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Iron Rock Suspension

IROJunk_zpsf51d064a.jpg


Good enough for me to not consider thier kit.

That picture is from my XJ and I used to support IRO until that happened, the scary part was the 10mm bolt was also bent. IRO did send me another adjuster quickly but it should never have happened. The arms themselves are strong but that adjuster has left a bad taste in my mouth.
 
That picture is from my XJ and I used to support IRO until that happened, the scary part was the 10mm bolt was also bent. IRO did send me another adjuster quickly but it should never have happened. The arms themselves are strong but that adjuster has left a bad taste in my mouth.

Hmm, i guess im not the only one that bent the gay caster adjuster then.
 
Looking at both pictures, I would say that operator error and negligent maintenance was involved in the failure. Alex has a Nylock nut where he should have used a grade 5 or grade 8 hardware and locking nut, hardened washers, and thread lock compound.

In second picture twodoor has a unrated (?) bolt, no washers, and probably no thread lock.

Properly installed and maintained there is no reason the IRO long shouldn't just be fine. (Anybody neglect to re-check your hardware torque before/after each of the first few 4x4 trips ? )
 
Looking at both pictures, I would say that operator error and negligent maintenance was involved in the failure. Alex has a Nylock nut where he should have used a grade 5 or grade 8 hardware and locking nut, hardened washers, and thread lock compound.

In second picture twodoor has a unrated (?) bolt, no washers, and probably no thread lock.

Properly installed and maintained there is no reason the IRO long shouldn't just be fine. (Anybody neglect to re-check your hardware torque before/after each of the first few 4x4 trips ? )

I would severly dissagree in this case!
 
So says a LOT of people running a factory track bar bolt. Don't know whats in your rig, but if Jeep can sell the Cherokee with a 10mm bolt holding the panhard rod in place... I'm personally not going to worry about IRO's bolt.

Jeep can sell the cherokee on light, small tires with 10mm bolts keeping the trackbar in place. How many people wheel with iro longarms on stock tires? I have broken so many of those I have lost count, even bent a half inch trackbar bolt.
 

Pretty much sums it up.

Any longarm will flex more than necessary when properly set up, Iro just preaches their "super duper exclusive non binding 3 link with more flex than you can imagine" And thats what most xj owners just getting into the sport want, lots of flex, for not a lot of money.

Oh, and its not a 3 link like they say, that just bugs me lol.
 
Looking at both pictures, I would say that operator error and negligent maintenance was involved in the failure. Alex has a Nylock nut where he should have used a grade 5 or grade 8 hardware and locking nut, hardened washers, and thread lock compound.

In second picture twodoor has a unrated (?) bolt, no washers, and probably no thread lock.

Properly installed and maintained there is no reason the IRO long shouldn't just be fine. (Anybody neglect to re-check your hardware torque before/after each of the first few 4x4 trips ? )

I was using the hardware provided by iron rock and torqued the bolts to theirs specs in their installation manual, also that is a 10.9 metric bolt.

I torqued the bolts every other oil change to make sure they were torqued to specs so please don't say it was lack of proper maintenance.
 
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For all the bickering about the adjuster bracket, I would like to see some discussion on what simple modifications (if any) can be done to make this thing stronger. Yes I do have the kit myself but I have not taken it out yet. I will admit I am a little skeptical about it though.
 
The way i see it, is if you were to set your caster, then weld it solid, you will then run into issues with the bolt wallowing out the slots... You can see in the pics where the slot has been spread... allowing slop. There are 2 peices of metal grabbing each side of the bolt, but neither of these peices captures 360 degrees around the bolt, both only grab on the sides....

Bad, bad design, im amazed there arent more problems than there are...
 
What slots? I would weld WASHERS and ditch the bracket. You guys just want to hate IRO. They are a good company with affordable products. Good for most people. Maybe not for hardcore but that is a small %.
 
Looking at both pictures, I would say that operator error and negligent maintenance was involved in the failure. Alex has a Nylock nut where he should have used a grade 5 or grade 8 hardware and locking nut, hardened washers, and thread lock compound.

In second picture twodoor has a unrated (?) bolt, no washers, and probably no thread lock.

Properly installed and maintained there is no reason the IRO long shouldn't just be fine. (Anybody neglect to re-check your hardware torque before/after each of the first few 4x4 trips ? )

I ran the bolt that came with the kit, along with their washers and nylock nut.

In that picture i had already removed the bolt, but slid it back in without the washer so you could see how badly it was bent.

I did not run any thread lock.

At the end of the day.... still shit
 
What I don't understand is, why can't IRO just use an adjustable upper arm for caster like everyone else? If it ain't broke, don't fix it. In the case of IRO, it wasn't broken, so they decided to make something that would break...

I understand wanting to be different than everyone else or design something new and improved. But their caster adjuster isn't anywhere near better or as strong as a normal adjustable upper that rotates the housing. Plus they took a normal radius arm kit that works great, deleted one of the uppers, then fixed the other to the lower to make the kit less effective! And finally called it a 3-link, I guess so people would compare it to a real hardcore-style 3 link.
 
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