Iron Rock Long Arm Upgrade

[REVROK]

Well his passenger front tire is driving up a hill. That makes the rear left squat down.

On that hill, my tire would be stuffed.

Coils with that LA setup would have zero friction while the leaves would have a lot... but you are right he should have a little squat except for the amount of arch in those springs (gonna be stiff).

 

[squidd]

I didn't get a good pic of it but the rear on mine with the 4" alcans does stuff. I noticed not to the same degree in comparison to the front as it did witht the short arms though.

 

[BOX]

I think your truck would be better, if you removed about 7" of lift, and learned how to trim the fenders.

With normal amounts of lift, the rear will actually flex. Its not flexing in that pic, as the tire isnt even close to the wheel well.

Unless you wanted a serious amount of lift, so you didnt have to trim, but that just makes the truck very unstable.

Holy HUGE. 10 inches of lift & 33s. I mean... my god man. What if you have to do a quick maneuver @ highway speed? ur fawked.

I thought I was huge @ 37s & 6" of lift.

 

[Darky]

here's mine, from sunday.. 33x12.50s, 10" lift (8" spring, 2x1" spacers).. as you can kinda see, the spring is about 4-5" from the top perch.. Yeah, it's a little flexy.

I'm at 5.5" with trimmed fenders and 33s and think my tires are starting to look a little small in the fender wells... 35s will be coming next.

I have to say though... I think they should have integrated vertical plates to screw into the sides of the uniframe rails, and they should have been as long as possible, maybe 6 screws per side on the bottoms 6 on each side. The stock brackets are welded to the corners, which would be very strong places, but this bolts to the flat bottom part.

how about bolts that go through the frame rails with plates on the other side? dont think screws would hold in the thin metal of the frame rails.

That's how my Rock Krawler 3 link works. The bracket is u shaped and wraps around the frame rails and then has crush sleeves you weld into the frame rail holes to keep from crushing it. It uses 2 bolts through the frame and bolts onto the cross member bolts on the bottom.

 

[builder]

Ramp pics, I have some serious trimming to do on the front. These are 35's.. Bump stops and limit straps!!

I think I will have to trip the driverside lower control arm bracket because the arm does hang up on it. For that matter Its pretty stuffed as it is so this might be a good spot to bump stop it. My 5.5" springs were hanging 3 inches below the upper pad.

 

[squidd]

I've got a set of the redrock adjustable bumps ready to go......It just stuffs so nice :loveu:

 

[offroadwagon]

the old lower control mount looks like a great place for a bumpstop if you asked me...........

 

[gump]

Seems to me that would create too much leverage. The uptravel of the axle, making the arm pivot on the bumpstop, would want to pull the frame side mount away from the frame.

 

[yossarian19]

Seems to me that would create too much leverage. The uptravel of the axle, making the arm pivot on the bumpstop, would want to pull the frame side mount away from the frame.

good call, I hadn't thought of that.

 

[DeftwillP]

I know the picture doesn't suggest it, but didn't someone already say that the arms run inboard of the old lca mounts?

 

[squidd]

Looks like they are supposed to but on full up travel on the ramp my arms were just clipping the inboard side of the lower mount

 

[ILLXJ]

Looks like they are supposed to but on full up travel on the ramp my arms were just clipping the inboard side of the lower mount

On both sides? Could the track bar need adjusted just a little bit? JIM.

 

[Spoony]

what lift are you at, squidd? And what shocks?

 

[squidd]

I've got RE 5.5 coils in the front and a set of 4" alcans with 1.5" shakles in the back. I went for the DT8000 shocks up front and I am still running the cheapo RC hydro shocks that came with the original lift in the rear.

 

[squidd]

So what does everyone think of thier kits now that they have run them a week or two? Still have to get an real alignment so mine still has a little highway instability and en't wheeled it yet. Just curious.

 

[PBach25]

So what does everyone think of thier kits now that they have run them a week or two? Still have to get an real alignment so mine still has a little highway instability and en't wheeled it yet. Just curious.

Ran mine quite a bit today....on the road...to the rocks. I run without a swaybar. It's a bit squirly at higher speeds. Did I mention I only run one rear shock as well (it's a test). Incredibly smooth. Smoother than my JK. Hit the rocks hard, flexed the living hell out of it, got back on the road, and it was a pleasure once again. I've been testing mine now for almost two months and can't say enough good things about it. Couple of minor bugs I'm working out, which I'll share in the full review.

 

[89xj]

So what does everyone think of thier kits now that they have run them a week or two? Still have to get an real alignment so mine still has a little highway instability and en't wheeled it yet. Just curious.

do the alignment your self.

tape measure for toe and an angle finder for the caster.

on a custom or non stock suspension, i would think doing an alignment yourself would allow you to fine tune your suspension and not always having to take it somewhere to get the work done.

are you taking it to a shop that will adjust the long arms(caster, center axle in wheel well) or are they only going to set up toe?

 

[squidd]

Heck, for the $75 they quoted me on the phone I would hope it would be the whole thing. I have run a rough set like you said using an angle finder and a tape. Figured On an alignment rack they could get it right on. Drives a lot better now that I am running about 7-8 degrees caster. Not a lot of room on the adjuster to add much more if a wanted, maybe 1-2 degrees tops.

 

[Spoony]

I think your truck would be better, if you removed about 7" of lift, and learned how to trim the fenders.

With normal amounts of lift, the rear will actually flex. Its not flexing in that pic, as the tire isnt even close to the wheel well.

Unless you wanted a serious amount of lift, so you didnt have to trim, but that just makes the truck very unstable.

I know how to trim fenders, I just elect not to, right now. I will be doing so, however, in the next couple of weeks.
It now sits around 8.5", as I've removed the spacers from the front coils, and replaced the rear boomerangs.

^^ I agree that he should lower it, but I think the reason that it is not flexing is because the rear is on flat ground

you are correct, 99%. both rears are almost on the same inclined angle as the right-front. the left front is dropped off of the hill, creating droop on the LF, and no real need for compression on the other three corners.

Well his passenger front tire is driving up a hill. That makes the rear left squat down.

On that hill, my tire would be stuffed.

I'll try to post the RF picture, when I find it.. it'll possibly make more sense, then.

At any rate, I wheeled on some 4-5 trails early this week, and I must say, it flexes extremely well (at both ends) I've got ZERO complaints with it, to this point, especially since I got my shock issues worked out.

 

[Starboard M]

you are correct, 99%. both rears are almost on the same inclined angle as the right-front. the left front is dropped off of the hill, creating droop on the LF, and no real need for compression on the other three corners.

You are 99% wrong. If your Jeep is doing that, it means that the front is to soft, and the rear is to hard.


The front should be more compressed as its doing most of the work, but the rear should be doing some work as well.




Your rear leaf packs are too tall, and dont flex worth a shit.