• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Important

I've read that people have had success getting a free month of Prime when "Guaranteed 2 day" items show up late, just have to chat with them and they'll extend the membership. Although it sounds like in your situation, it isn't going to change any time soon so that may not be of much help.

I dropped my Prime membership for a couple months shortly after I was no longer eligible for the student pricing, and shipping times were awful, plus the $25 dollar minimum for free shipping was annoying. I quickly decided that I was much better off paying for Prime.
 
I heard they have cookies.
 
I got tail today, tail pipe that is.

evatu6at.jpg
 
Smash Hole said:
I gave up and rented one of those big Johnson's. Finished it in less than an hour.

Now to clean up the edges and seal it.
Click to expand...
why rent big johnsons when you can get them for free? :twak:

Fore Wheeler said:
The hazzards and blinkers are on different circuits, if I remember correctly. It's a safety thing, like being able to run your flashers w/o the key on.
Click to expand...
Yeah, that's an FMVSS requirement. There are two separate blinker cans on 96- as a result. 97+ it's an electronic module that gets stuck up under the dash right near the headlight switch.

shortxjdoug said:
Ha yeah... I can never seem to find one in a junk pile around here. I just want a mopar 360 i can slap a carb on. Simple jobbie.


Finding the xj to put it in at my price point will be more difficult
Click to expand...
I forget the differences between LA, A, and Magnum blocks, but Magnum 5.9s are everywhere up here and I will help you with wiring if you don't mind staying EFI. It is not that hard.

Also, just sayin', a mantrans bellhousing from a 3.9L V6 Dakota will bolt a 5.2 or 5.9 to an AX15 or NV3550 ;) I wouldn't recommend putting a 5.9 in front of one but a 5.2, sure.

(if you go this route, just grab the whole dakota transmission. It's literally the same as an XJ one except the shift tower and lever and the bellhousing.)

87manche said:
yeah, but in XJ land they didn't go full CAN BUS until 97.

probably because they developed it all for the ZJ in 96 it looks like.
I assume 96+ ZJ has gauges driven by PCM and the like.

I'm zj tarded, just know what to take from those that works. if the RKE module is the same in the ZJs and WJs that would be a god source for us, because al of hte grands had keyless entry. Programming fobs brings the suck though.
Click to expand...
XJs actually never, ever got CAN bus, despite what Novak and others say. All 91+ XJs have a CCD bus. All 97+ ones put a lot more stuff on it, including the instrument panel.

ZJs and WJs use either CCD or PCI bus depending on the year, I forget where the split is.

Around 04/05/06 or so, Jeep changed over to CAN bus and joined the modern world.

CCD bus is markedly simpler than CAN bus, it's almost like differential RS232 with collision detection.

CAN bus is really neat, but pretty complicated. I am in the middle of implementing 3 different CAN buses on the vehicle I am the embedded systems engineer for at work.

Smash Hole said:
I've been doing for about 4 years now. She's getting tired but it's so reliable and doesn't burn or leak a drop of oil.

One of these days I'll get the balls to swap it out.
Click to expand...
I discovered mine blows a monster cloud of oil smoke if I let it idle for a while and then launch it yesterday. It's been disposing of oil rather quickly even after I replaced all the seals and gaskets, so pretty sure the rings or valve seals are shot.

Since this block also has rod knock issues and oil pressure issues (long story short I was doing 4k rpm around corners and over hillcrests so sharply that I was losing oil pressure without lifting throttle, ever) even after slapping new rod bearings in it, I'm planning on tearing it out and using it as a base for a stroker build assuming I get it out before it liberates a conrod.

*89Laredo* said:
Mine is like 20 psi at 55. Typical Renix.
I'll build a stroker eventually. Pistons are 500 bucks so it'll take a while.
Click to expand...
WTF, what pistons are those? I could swear I found a much cheaper option.

Fore Wheeler said:
ja8e4ymy.jpg
Click to expand...
Google CH3110104 next time you need one cheap. Rockauto has em for $11.
 
*89Laredo* said:
Icon ic944. For use with 4.0 length rods.
Click to expand...

Why not just run the 4.2 length rods? Makes sense those would be expensive pistons, I guess.

The recipe I was planning on was the 4.5L poor mans...
4.0 block, head (maybe a TUPY 0331, I have read a lot and apparently they flow better), cam, pistons, etc
4.2 crank, rods
Probably ARP rod and head hardware just for good measure.

I have a couple possible 4.0 blocks lined up to build off of and the crank/rods already sitting here, just need to find out if there's enough material left to turn the crank down without having to get custom bearings. The rod journals are kinda whipped.
 
Pretty sure it's just a bad drivers side headgasket, dripping coolant out of the back corner. Now to decide if I should swap my motor in or fix this one and put my turbo on it, either way the motor has to come out.
y8yva6ag.jpg
 
kastein said:
I forget the differences between LA, A, and Magnum blocks, but Magnum 5.9s are everywhere up here and I will help you with wiring if you don't mind staying EFI. It is not that hard.



Also, just sayin', a mantrans bellhousing from a 3.9L V6 Dakota will bolt a 5.2 or 5.9 to an AX15 or NV3550 ;) I wouldn't recommend putting a 5.9 in front of one but a 5.2, sure.



(if you go this route, just grab the whole dakota transmission. It's literally the same as an XJ one except the shift tower and lever and the bellhousing.)
Click to expand...


Oh yes the choice of motor was made for dumping a dakota ax15 straight into it :D

Im waiting for a jeep of the proper patina to wander into my driveway to build(ie ratrod and cheap). 360/ax15 2wd beam and slammed.

I always wanted a hotrod... Figured it would be cheap and fun to toss one together with cherokee parts
 
360/ax15, you are probably going to munch the hell out of the trans if you actually get your foot in it.

AX15s/NV3550s are only rated for 300 foot pounds. Even a stock 360 puts out a bit over that.

2wd gives you a lot more options though, find a 2wd ratty old mopar with a mantrans and grab whatever it has in it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
Door Chime Demon
Replies
2
Views
67
Saudade
Saudade
O
Rear Brake Noise Question and Hepl Please
Replies
5
Views
383
asymptonic
A
macgyvr
What can we do better?
2
Replies
22
Views
1K
SAMSET
SAMSET
Z
1990 renix electrical issues
Replies
3
Views
96
cruiser54
C
J
2001 4.0L issues
Replies
15
Views
282
Saudade
Saudade
Back
Top