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7etagune.jpg


Ready for paint...and I'm out of paint...

mac 'time to drink a few' gyvr
 
RedHeep said:
The radiator that was in it started leaking from the tank seam to the core. I was impressed with the Chinese aluminum one, but it makes fan clutch clearance something you have to deal with.

I bought a CSF 3 core this time, all brass. It's also a nice radiator. Seems to fit a little better than the aluminum one. I had to buy a new fan shroud since I cracked mine in half taking it out, so pretty much everything in the cooling system is new now.

Interesting fun fact: 97+ heater hoses are like 25 bucks a piece, but 6 feet of 5/8 heater hose is only $5.99.
Click to expand...

So the overheating problem started with the New Radiator?

If so, that would lend credence to a number of reports I have been seeing of cheap 3rd party radiators not providing the cooling XJs need.

Fan shrouds are a must have. With the 3 Core, make sure you have poly mounts (Ask me how I know).

Fingers are crossed that you have your OH problem fixed. I think you did it with the Radiator and Shroud.

Ron
 
Alright I will toss in my .02 on the xj cooling system. Over the years I have dealt with overheating here and there and did my research. If in doubt of a cooling part like a water pump, replace it with a NEW one. Cooling system parts are lots cheaper than replacing a motor.
In my big jeep with a 4.7 stroker I am NOT a fan of high temps. When I installed the motor I went with a new not reman water pump, new stat, new lower hose with the spring so the hose does not collapse, new STOCK radiator, and 50/50 antifreeze. With a new clutch for the fan and all the new parts my jeep runs at 195 95% of the time highway or not. The only time it get warm is when I am very slow cruising on the trails and then I flip the switch for the e-fan and it stays at 195 all day long.
Both daily drivers have 3 core CSF all brass radiators and all new cooling parts and they run the same as the big jeep, 195 all day long till slow cruising, flip the switch and back to 195. I am NOT a fan of seeing 210 in my jeeps, when I see 220 230 I freak out!!! Seriously.
 
Flat black as always...

mac 'if I ever build a d44 front I will make myself paint it gold' gyvr
 
POLAR_JEEP_04 said:
I regeared and lunch box locked mine. I don't have fancy C gussets or inner tubes.
Click to expand...

It's a whole 140 in parts...

Trussed the lower control arms, the upper mount, added welds to factory weld, trimmed shock mounts for flex and redrilled the track bar mount (these have always been my standard d30 mods).

mac 'not fancy...just good solid mods' gyvr
 
85xjwoody said:
Both daily drivers have 3 core CSF all brass radiators and all new cooling parts and they run the same as the big jeep, 195 all day long till slow cruising, flip the switch and back to 195. I am NOT a fan of seeing 210 in my jeeps, when I see 220 230 I freak out!!! Seriously.
Click to expand...

I don't like seeing 220-230 but they were built to run at 210. I wouldn't sweat that at all.
 
It's ok Mac. Ill keep my 36mm and 13mm in my jeep box for ya ill keep it right next to my ford wheel bearing socket that ill never use.

Polar "RCVs on 35"s" jeep
 
I have a lot less money in a D30 on 33s than if I wasted money on a d44.

I've got spare D30 shafts and ball joints as well.

I've always kept my 36mm and 13mm stuff around.

Aside from the ring gear, a D30 with a few inexpensive mods is as strong as a D44 front.

mac 'go 60 or go home after a 30' gyvr
 
My 30 shafts don't like 35"s. if I put RCVs in a 30 I'd eat gears like Sam and Doug. If Tim can run 38"s and wheel hard I can do it with 35"s. 60 is a over kill for 35"s.
 
Last rig I skipped 35s and went from 33s to 38s...ran those on a D30 until I could build a 60.

mac 'wheeled to keep it alive' gyvr
 
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