im 17 and need help

[cal]

would it be easier for me to buy a 3 inch lift, and later go and put 1.5" coil spacers/shackles?

No. a "3 inch lift" - pretty much all of them, come with lower control arms, front coils, some kind of rear lift (aal or leaf pack) and MAYBE a rear extended brake line.


a 4.5" lift comes with all of that, plus front brake lines, trackbar, upper control arms, a transfer case drop (that you will not use, needing an SYE) and some kind of swaybar disconnect or extension.

If you buy a 3" lift and want to go to 4.5", you pretty much are buying a new lift kit. You can buy the RE 3.5" lift, add the HD trackbar to it, and run that for now. That lift comes with exactly what I listed above. Whe you want to go bigger, add front brake lines, upper control arms, a rear shackle, and a spacer up front. You probably still need an SYE at 3.5" on a late model though - some people dont, some do, theres no real forumla.

If you want, PM me and I'll drop you my phone number. I've lifted about nine xj's in the last two years, on top of running mine without about six different lifts and suspension config's. I'll give you an hour or so to ask me every possible question you can think of, and will give you the most honest answers I can.

-Cal

 

[IntrepidXJ]

as a few others started in this thread.....i highly recommend getting some armor and wheeling your XJ in stock form, and then making modifications to improve your vehicles capability based on experience. in the end, you will become a better driver with a properly built rig.

my 2 cents

 

[Begster]

If you were to regear to 4.56, you would find a 15-30% increase in gas mileage - it would pay for itself in less than a year.

O ya I know I would gain an increase in gas mileage, and it woudl definitely be worth it. I was just saying that its not the end of the world and his Jeep will still be able to drive.


My shop also has quoted about $800 per axle for gears installs, and I've heard from a previous thread that is a little high. Plus I don't really have that money at the moment, being a college student and all.

 

[hirollerco]

Actually, it has to do with the slip yoke, (Slip Yoke eliminator, go figure) at the end of the transfercase. The yoke slips on the output shaft. The slip is needed because as the axle moves up and down, the distance between the pinion and output shaft changes.

The pre 97 models have the slip yoke internally, which is why they have longer tail cones. This is also why if you take the yoke out it will start leaking fluid. This means that they are less prone to vibrations. The 97+ have the slip yoke externally, and thus is not as stable and is more prone to vibes. Slip yokes are perfectly fine, and why they came from the factory, but on lifted vehicles they are not ideal.

An SYE gets rid of the slip yoke at the tail end of the transfercase, and leaves a shorter shaft. A flange is also added so that a new shaft can be attached, much like at the pinion end. Since the output shaft is shorter, a new, longer driveshaft is needed, and helps with the geometry. A CV driveshaft helps with the angles, and it has a slip shaft to deal with the change in distances. Shims are also needed most of the time to help with the pinion angle.

So it does have to do with the angles, but more at the t-case end.

Also, there are only Heavy Duty kits for the 231 cases. 242 is Hack and Tap. Cheaper, gets the job done, but its basically a cut down shaft, drilled and taped to accept a flange. My H&T was $90, and with the driveshaft it came to around $432, if I remember correctly

Thats part of it, the other half of it is the rear axle, and its angle too. there are 2 joints to cause vibes in the shaft one at the bottom and one at the top so its not exclusively the slip yoke. its about the angle difference between the output shaft of the tcase and the pinion. you want them to basically stay at roughly stock angles. I ran 8" of lift without an sye just a turned rear axle... but that may have had something to do with it being a 350/th350/np207 combo too, never got vibes till about 65, and even then they werent bad

oh yeah and just cause i did it doesnt mean it was a good idea haha i wouldnt do it again, sye is the way to go

 

[cal]

O ya I know I would gain an increase in gas mileage, and it woudl definitely be worth it. I was just saying that its not the end of the world and his Jeep will still be able to drive.


My shop also has quoted about $800 per axle for gears installs, and I've heard from a previous thread that is a little high. Plus I don't really have that money at the moment, being a college student and all.

It can also damage your transmission in the long run, as it has to work a lot harder to get you moving.

Talk to your local club members about gearing, see if anyone does it regularly (and verify they dont do it 'by feel'..). Locally I can get my gears done for about $150 per axle labor, and about $200 per axle parts. You can always do the rear, and then wait and do the front 2 months down the road - just dont put it in four wheel drive in the meantime.

 

[98POSXJ]

I was 17 when I gott my jeep and am now 19. You just cant be afraid to jump in there and work on it. I had little experience before my jeep and now have replaced pretty much everything on it myself.... lol motor, tranny x2, axles twice, suspension, and gone through t case! Just get some practice!

 

[Begster]

It can also damage your transmission in the long run, as it has to work a lot harder to get you moving.

Talk to your local club members about gearing, see if anyone does it regularly (and verify they dont do it 'by feel'..). Locally I can get my gears done for about $150 per axle labor, and about $200 per axle parts. You can always do the rear, and then wait and do the front 2 months down the road - just dont put it in four wheel drive in the meantime.

Ya, problem is pretty much all my local club guys go to our shop because the owner is the vice pres of our club.

I'm going to the junkyard next week, looking around for some 4.10 axles, I know it will help but not be the best.

 

[cal]

Ya, problem is pretty much all my local club guys go to our shop because the owner is the vice pres of our club.

I'm going to the junkyard next week, looking around for some 4.10 axles, I know it will help but not be the best.

You might consider saving a little more and looking for a ford 8.8 with factory 4.10's. You can usually get one around $300, and will have to have just a little welding done to put it in, plus some driveshaft modification. It's stronger than any stock jeep axle and has rear discs already.

 

[Shomsky462]

hey im 17 too.
youre bonna have a pretty sweet rig with the plans you have for it.
just make sure whatever you do, you do it right the first time. i got a 4.5" lift from rough country when i started wheelin my 91 xj but now (1.5 years later) the only thing i have left from that kit are the front springs which i need to replace soon because they are sagging. so basically make sure what your buying is going to hold up to the kind of wheeling your gonna do, how big your tires are, etc...

hope this helps. keep us posted on how your rig turns out
-Shomsky

 

[djblade311]

welcome fellow southern Illinoisan! I'm originally from Murphysboro.

1. Listen to Cal...he's right
2. You WILL need a SYE for the 2000 model when you go 4.5".
3. As many have mentioned, the performance mods arent needed. If your muffler or cat are shot, upgrading them to Magnaflow or Flowmaster 40 series will make a nice improvement.
4. On 32's and 3.55 gears, its not bad but it will cost you more in gas. I ran that for about a year and after I regeared to 4.56, I noticed a huge improvement in acceleration and gas mileage. Save up for that and do it all at the same time.
5. You should definitely invest FIRST in tow hooks if yours dont have any. Then get rock rails -> lift -> tires etc

 

[snazy52]

Where in Southern Illinois are you at. I am from Harrisburg and we have many off-roaders here. We have a few private farms that we off-road at and travel to Paddy's Bluff in Ky. quite a bit. We mostly do rocks and trails, not much mud. I agree with some of the others, I wouldn't do everything at once, maybe a lift and some 32's and then practice. See what your capabilities are and then lock the rear, then you have entered a whole new world. I wouldn't worry about the performance kit, gears will do much more I think. I ran 32's with stock 3.55's and performance was fine, gas mileage sucked! Anyway, have fun and stay off of the government ground, they are getting pretty strict.

 

[red_01_xj]

wow.. i didnt see any mentions of skid plates or tow hooks

 

[Jeep-Thing]

Hey man I'm in the same situation. I'm 17, I've been wheelin my stock 01 (with 31's) for about six months now, and I'm ready for an upgrade.

Yesterday I got stuck pretty bad for the first time ever. I tried to do this muddy hill climb and had less clearance than I thought, ended up stuck all the way to the halfway point of my driveshaft with both front wheels spinnin freely. After scratchin my noggin for a bit, I decided to just wiggle my rig out and have someone hop in the driver's side. After about 15-20 minutes of me pushing and pulling as hard as I could on the roof rack, she drove right out.

Time for my upgrade! I've had a RE 4.5 Superflex kit just sitting around the shop, and I've been waiting till I got some good wear out of the stock suspension >).

So, my question is: could I just put a SYE on and be good? I know that I eventually will get the Tom Woods DS, but I only have money enough for the SYE.
Happy Wheelin everyone!

 

[cal]

wow.. i didnt see any mentions of skid plates or tow hooks

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=243476953&postcount=7

Read down a bit, armor is there.

And yeah, I did forget tow hooks. If I were looking at the jeep it would have jumped to the front of my mind, but I havent stared at a stock front bumper in so long I can vaguely remember what they look like.

 

[cal]

So, my question is: could I just put a SYE on and be good? I know that I eventually will get the Tom Woods DS, but I only have money enough for the SYE.

No, the two go as a pair (different kind of driveshaft).

You *may* be able to bolt your front driveshaft onto the rear, depending on length, until you can afford to have a rear shaft made. Some people will tell you to get a used front shaft at the junkyard and run that .. Myself, I don't think they are quiet heavy duty enough for a rear application.

 

[cal]

1. Listen to Cal...he's right

Can you convince my girlfriend of that?

 

[djblade311]

wow.. i didnt see any mentions of skid plates or tow hooks

Read my post:

5. You should definitely invest FIRST in tow hooks if yours dont have any. Then get rock rails -> lift -> tires etc

skids plates are good especially for the gas tank but mine had a factory one. i havent had a need for the tcase skid aside from the factory crossmember and skid.

Can you convince my girlfriend of that?

ha. thats all you buddy.

 

[rustysxj]

alright thanks alot,
i see this isnt more of a all in one installment of upgrades
but more of a step by step
and that a lift kit isnt the most important thing
thanks and ill let you know how things are going step by step
i live in collinsville illinois (15 minutes from stlouis)
and id love to come out and wheel with other people

 

[Begster]

Thats part of it, the other half of it is the rear axle, and its angle too. there are 2 joints to cause vibes in the shaft one at the bottom and one at the top so its not exclusively the slip yoke. its about the angle difference between the output shaft of the tcase and the pinion. you want them to basically stay at roughly stock angles. I ran 8" of lift without an sye just a turned rear axle... but that may have had something to do with it being a 350/th350/np207 combo too, never got vibes till about 65, and even then they werent bad

oh yeah and just cause i did it doesnt mean it was a good idea haha i wouldnt do it again, sye is the way to go

Yes, its the U-joints in the driveshaft, and one of those has to do with the angle of the pinion, but I still don't see where you think the axle itself has to do with the vibes. I was correcting the original poster where he said the axle was what determined if you would have vibrations.

 

[UNCC_99XJ]

i see this isnt more of a all in one installment of upgrades
but more of a step by step
and that a lift kit isnt the most important thing

Bingo. Gotta get some recovery points and some type of armor underneath before hand. Because a lot of good that 4.5" lift will do you if you happen to high center on a rock or something and puncture something.

I'm in sorta the same position as you, only i'm about to be 19, i'm in college, and dont have a job (as of yet). So i'm having to piece together things slowly with the little bit of money that I do get.