I'd not bother with a Haynes manual - they're best used as fire-lighters. A Chilton's is rather better, and costs about the same. Expect to pay about $100 for an FSM, but it's well worth the dosh
Check around your local community colleges, most of them will offer a course or two in basic auto mechanics. You'll pick up a lot there, and they'll usually let you work on your own vehicle as well. Something to consider...
As far as teh XJ-specific stuff, we'll be happy to help you with that, but it should be borne in mind that most of our advice is going to be written with someone who actually knows basic mechanics in mind - so if you do ask technical questions, make sure to tell us to put the answer in simple terms for you. Elsewise, the advice will be of limited utility to you, simply because we're leaving out the basics we'll assume you already know. Also, make sure you tell us year/engine/transmission/axles and the like - some of us give quite a lot of advice, and it's difficult to keep track of who owns what.
As far as basic work, everytime I buy a vehicle, I do a FULL set of fluid/filter changes (to reset the maintenance counter I keep on everything,) and a chassis/suspension/brake inspection. If there's less than 1/16" of friction material over metal surfaces (backing plates and/or rivet heads,) it gets replaced. Tie rod ends are checked for articulation and recovery (can be done easily - use a large pair of channel-locks and gently squeeze the joint. It should compress 1/16" or so and rebound FULLY and IMMEDIATELY.) This can be done with the vehicle on the ground.
A rocker cover gasket and an oil sump gasket both REQUIRE use of a torque wrench - it's very easy to crush those gaskets beyond utility. Use the later moulded rubber gasket for the oil sump, and search up my posts on doing the valve cover gasket - I've covered it a few times.
You'll want a torque wrench that has a "mid-range" of somewhere around 100 pound-inches or 10-11 pound-feet - most instruments are going to be most accurate at the middle third of their range. This applies to most measuring instruments - not just torque wrenches. Valve cover bolts get torqued to NOT MORE THAN 7 pound-feet/84 pound-inches, and oil sump bolts get toruqed to NOT MORE THAN 7 pound-feet/84 pound-inches (1/4" bolts) or 11 pound-feet/132 pound-inches (5/16" bolts at the corners.)
Brakes typically require a "special" socket of some variety for the front - I think either 8m/m hex, 10m/m hex, 3/8" hex, T-40, or something like that. I've got them all, so I don't think about it anymore, and they're usually available at the local parts house. Rear brakes will require a set of spring tools - but you can get those fairly cheaply, and they're almost universal. I do suggest that you remove BOTH tyres/wheels and drums, but only service ONE side at a time - you'll refer to the other for putting it back to rights (I still do.)
The transfer case doesn't have a filter, so no worries there. The automatic transmission will have a filter - the first time, I'll drop the pan to clean the filter and the magnet in the sump pan, and the put it back together. After that, I'll only drop the pan every 3 years or so, since the filter is little more than a coarse screen and only wants occasional cleaning. Draining the transmission fluid so it runs over a magnet will help you catch when something is going awry - a little bit of filings are normal, but a lot can be a problem.
The AX-15 is a manual (obviously!) and therefore won't have a filter - just gear oil to change. Pull the upper/fill plug first, then the lower/drain plug - which will keep the transmission from "burping."
Check for a tag on your rear axle housing that says something like "Use LSD lubricant only" or somesuch - it indicates the presence of a limited-slip differential of some sort, and that requires a special additive. This additive can be used anywhere gear oil is used, so I usually just mix it into my stock of gear oil so I don't forget. I've got one XJ with LSD and three without...
And, don't hesistate to ask (and search!) here if you get cornered - while it may take an hour or so sometimes to get an answer, but you'll get one. Just try to research a major job BEFORE you do it, because that will help keep you out of corners later, and you won't end up posing a "HELP - HURRY PLEASE!" thread and halting work...
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