blistovmhz
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Vancouver, BC
Halp! My roomie's truck/car are always busted and it's cutting into our wheeling time!
Two vehicles, multiple problems.
Vehicle 1 (the important one):
1997 K1500 regular cab ... normal box?
I designed, built, and installed a SAS for this last year. The suspension itself turned out surprisingly good. Rides better than my Jeep ever has, articulates well, and deals with climbs and boulders ridiculously well.
Issues that keep coming up that we haven't been able to solve:
1. Hopping from start. - Doesn't seem to be axle wrap. When starting from first, the truck just bounces like a mutha. Problem seems to be inconsistent and just goes away from time to time. When present, if you just slowly let out the clutch and don't touch the gas, it's not as bad. When I say bounce, I mean we turn heads from a block away because the entire truck shakes like it's going to tear itself apart. To me, it feels like a contaminated clutch. As far as I recall, he had this problem before and after swapping clutches. As this is his first truck, I'm not sure that I trust his clutch install. Car clutches are much more forgiving.
When I watch under the truck during a rough start, the DS spins and stops and spins and stops. This does of course, cause some axle wrap, but when he has a good start and hammers on it, the wrap isn't bad at all.
Front axle D44 (driver drop), rear D60. 4.10 gears, Spartan locked.
I think his TOB is dying again, which will be the third TOB he's eaten in 2 years.
Several times had issues with deep water/mud. Hit's water, loses power, seems like clutch isn't engaging.
Clutch was replaced about a year ago while he was changing the first TOB. Since then, I think he's gone through 2 more TOB's. Again, I wasn't around for the installs and he's only recently a truck guy. He's generally very competent, but I wouldn't put it past him to **** up a truck clutch doing car stuff to it.
2. Hit's water and truck runs like crap and sometimes eventually just won't start (especially when climbing hillls after deep water). Throttle body injected v6 4.3. Air filter seems dry, dizzy seems dry. Let it sit for an hour or so and it runs fine again, but until then,you can crank it all day and it just won't fire. This always happens when we're climbing a mountain in pouring rain in the middle of the night, so troubleshooting is difficult, especially as it almost always occurs when he shuts the engine off to come spot me over a difficult line. Truck parked at >30-40 degree angle. I don't think it's ever happened when he's parked flat.
Vehicle 2 (the one I wish he's just set on fire for the insurance):
1992 Mustang Cobra (foxbody) 5.0L V8
This thing makes absolutely unecessary amounts of power. My V8 XJ on 35's can beat it off the line due to traction advantage. Thing can burn out at the top end of third (somewhere around 100km/h). 0-60 in less time than you can count. Absolute monster.
Previous owner had the motor built somewhere and decided to try to tackle the electrical on his own (he's a body guy). Thus, my roomie got it for real cheap when the previous owner could never get it running right.
Issue we keep having is that you'll be cruising along after about 15-20 minutes of driving, and the tack will start flailing all over then stall. If you leave the ignition on, the tack keeps flailing and you can hear injectors firing at about the rate you'd expect if the motor was moving as fast as the tack says (it just bounces all over the place).
Replaced the distributor, ignition module, coil, almost the entire harness (which we built and we're pretty confident about). The only thing left that I can think of is a cap in the ECU is buggering off or something. When it's running, it runs perfect. When it dies, you're stranded at the side of the road for 15-30 minutes until it all cools back down, then it fires right back up.
FYI, the injectors ARE in fact firing when the tack's going all over. We found that out the fun way. While troubleshooting, we found that if you clock the dizzy one direction and then back, you hit a sweet spot were the tack will go crazy and injectors fire. When I wasn't around, he apparently did this for a while and then engine wouldn't crank. I suggested he pull the plugs and try turning it over again. Sure enough, roughly 3.5L of unburned fuel got pumped out of the cylinders. Hydrolocked with fuel. Changes the oil (it was half fuel now).
What kills me is that I've had a very similar problem with a bad coil, but we've replaced the coil, and all other ignition components several times. Tried 4 dizzy's, 6 ignition modules, 2 coils, checked the wiring a hundred times from end to end.
Anyone got thoughts on either (and don't say "light them on fire". We're already considering that).
One bonus I guess is that if this keeps up much longer, I suspect roomies actually going to torch both vehicles and we'll build up a lifted, 4x4 70's mustang.
Two vehicles, multiple problems.
Vehicle 1 (the important one):
1997 K1500 regular cab ... normal box?
I designed, built, and installed a SAS for this last year. The suspension itself turned out surprisingly good. Rides better than my Jeep ever has, articulates well, and deals with climbs and boulders ridiculously well.
Issues that keep coming up that we haven't been able to solve:
1. Hopping from start. - Doesn't seem to be axle wrap. When starting from first, the truck just bounces like a mutha. Problem seems to be inconsistent and just goes away from time to time. When present, if you just slowly let out the clutch and don't touch the gas, it's not as bad. When I say bounce, I mean we turn heads from a block away because the entire truck shakes like it's going to tear itself apart. To me, it feels like a contaminated clutch. As far as I recall, he had this problem before and after swapping clutches. As this is his first truck, I'm not sure that I trust his clutch install. Car clutches are much more forgiving.
When I watch under the truck during a rough start, the DS spins and stops and spins and stops. This does of course, cause some axle wrap, but when he has a good start and hammers on it, the wrap isn't bad at all.
Front axle D44 (driver drop), rear D60. 4.10 gears, Spartan locked.
I think his TOB is dying again, which will be the third TOB he's eaten in 2 years.
Several times had issues with deep water/mud. Hit's water, loses power, seems like clutch isn't engaging.
Clutch was replaced about a year ago while he was changing the first TOB. Since then, I think he's gone through 2 more TOB's. Again, I wasn't around for the installs and he's only recently a truck guy. He's generally very competent, but I wouldn't put it past him to **** up a truck clutch doing car stuff to it.
2. Hit's water and truck runs like crap and sometimes eventually just won't start (especially when climbing hillls after deep water). Throttle body injected v6 4.3. Air filter seems dry, dizzy seems dry. Let it sit for an hour or so and it runs fine again, but until then,you can crank it all day and it just won't fire. This always happens when we're climbing a mountain in pouring rain in the middle of the night, so troubleshooting is difficult, especially as it almost always occurs when he shuts the engine off to come spot me over a difficult line. Truck parked at >30-40 degree angle. I don't think it's ever happened when he's parked flat.
Vehicle 2 (the one I wish he's just set on fire for the insurance):
1992 Mustang Cobra (foxbody) 5.0L V8
This thing makes absolutely unecessary amounts of power. My V8 XJ on 35's can beat it off the line due to traction advantage. Thing can burn out at the top end of third (somewhere around 100km/h). 0-60 in less time than you can count. Absolute monster.
Previous owner had the motor built somewhere and decided to try to tackle the electrical on his own (he's a body guy). Thus, my roomie got it for real cheap when the previous owner could never get it running right.
Issue we keep having is that you'll be cruising along after about 15-20 minutes of driving, and the tack will start flailing all over then stall. If you leave the ignition on, the tack keeps flailing and you can hear injectors firing at about the rate you'd expect if the motor was moving as fast as the tack says (it just bounces all over the place).
Replaced the distributor, ignition module, coil, almost the entire harness (which we built and we're pretty confident about). The only thing left that I can think of is a cap in the ECU is buggering off or something. When it's running, it runs perfect. When it dies, you're stranded at the side of the road for 15-30 minutes until it all cools back down, then it fires right back up.
FYI, the injectors ARE in fact firing when the tack's going all over. We found that out the fun way. While troubleshooting, we found that if you clock the dizzy one direction and then back, you hit a sweet spot were the tack will go crazy and injectors fire. When I wasn't around, he apparently did this for a while and then engine wouldn't crank. I suggested he pull the plugs and try turning it over again. Sure enough, roughly 3.5L of unburned fuel got pumped out of the cylinders. Hydrolocked with fuel. Changes the oil (it was half fuel now).
What kills me is that I've had a very similar problem with a bad coil, but we've replaced the coil, and all other ignition components several times. Tried 4 dizzy's, 6 ignition modules, 2 coils, checked the wiring a hundred times from end to end.
Anyone got thoughts on either (and don't say "light them on fire". We're already considering that).
One bonus I guess is that if this keeps up much longer, I suspect roomies actually going to torch both vehicles and we'll build up a lifted, 4x4 70's mustang.
