The rear is pretty straightforward, just time consuming. While the drivers side kick panel is off, remove the screws holding the inside door sill trim panel, then do the same with the rear trim piece. I found it easiest to remove the rear seat to make room to work. To remove the rear cargo panel you must remove the latch for the rear seat back, it's held on by 3 torx bolts, not sure what size. Then you will need to remove your spare tire and it's mounting hardware if you are still using it. The panel will still have the rear shoulder belt going through it but you will have enough room to work. Marvel at the amount of empty space between the inner and outer body. My 94 has the speaker bridge across the roof of the cargo area, so that's the instructions I'm giving, If your rears are in the hatch I have no experience with that. Once the rear panel is off you will need to remove left 2 or 3 screws from the rear sill trim piece, and the aluminum trim strip from the top of the inside of the cargo area. It doesen't bent much so to avoid damaging it just take the whole thing off. Then remove the aluminum trim strip over the left rear window, and now you can finally remove the screws that hold the trim panel on the upper left interior of the cargo area. The mounting point for the left door lifter is in this thing and it has a slit to slide it over the mount. I had to wiggle mine alot to get it off and it was not easy getting it back on either. Now remove the grates covering the rear speakers and the speakers themselves. I used the grilles that came with the new speakers I bought as the stock grills would not fit back over. About the best way to do this is to roughly lay out the speaker wire from the front dash all the way to the rear speaker mount, following the contours of the path you will take and give youself a extra few feet to make sure. Remember you'll need two sets and one will be about 2 feet longer for the right rear speaker. Cut it and then start feeding that sucker through the dash and all the nooks and crannies you just took apart. The trickiest part is getting the wire through the speaker bridge from the side, the center dome light is actually attached to the roof by a center post so try to go on either side of the light. Then it's just a matter of hooking up the wires and re-assembling everything you just took apart. I just did the rear wiring last saturday and all together it took about 3 1/2 hours. Remember to keep track of which screws go where, and the order of assembly since some of these pieces only go on in a certain order. You should also label the rear wiring while hooking it up so you don't forget which wire is which side. This procedure is to keep the wiring invisible inside the cab. If you don't care as some of my friends don't, just run it under mats or tape it under the edge of the sills until you get to the rear cargo area then you kinda have to get it out of the way somewhere. I kept the stock 5 1/4 in speaker size to make it simple, and if you get good speakers I would almost be happy with just the front 2 since the rear bridge doesent really lend itself to good resonance. The front doors are like a giant metal speaker box, the rear bridge might as well not exist acoustically. Whew, that was almost as labor intensive as actually doing it. If anyone notices a step I missed or has a better way by all means correct me. I wrote this from memory, so hopefully I didn't leave anything out. I am happy with the results, and believe it was worth an afternoon. Good luck and have fun.